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  #851  
Old 07-28-2018, 06:00 PM
PPP PPP is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: PS197,2007,350MCX,powerslot
Location: Midwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
PPP
Dono the answer, maybe others Can Chime N or ask a dealer tech.
So after looking at another boat that already had the module changed, the new millenium module is grounded by the tab on the regulator. I spliced in the ground wire from the plug of the old module. Boat is running fine, but i can't erase the check engine code.
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  #852  
Old 08-03-2018, 08:49 AM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Boat: 2000 X-star
Location: Midwest
Posts: 508
So I finally got everything back together on my 2000 X-star with the 310HP predator engine.

I got the following products:

Fuel filter for the bottom of the module, you do not need the sock filter that goes directly on the end of the fuel pump. My original one did not. Also get the new gasket on this page:
http://www.waterskis.com/155101-and-...ump_filter.htm

Airtex Fuel Pump E2044:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That fuel pump doesn't come with a fuel line that is rated for submersion, so you have to get a 12" fuel hose with an ID of .25 inches. This will allow you to have a tight fight around the regulator. You will just need to soak one of the hose in hot water for the fitting on the fuel pump:

GATES 27086

I used 13.3 Oetiker clamps on both ends because apparently at smaller hose sizes these work the best:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also you will need the fuel line removal tool as mentioned previously many times on this forum.

A couple of tips:

1) If you can't complete this in a few house, it best to have something like a 5 gallon bucket lid to cover the fuel tank while you have the module out

2) Slide the clamp over the fuel pump nozzle before you put the hose on. You won't be able to get the 13.3 past the barb over the hose because it just barely fits on the hose.

3) Take pictures as you disassemble parts to make reassembly easier

4) Be very careful with the nozzle on the regulator because it's plastic.

Boat ran great under load!

Thanks to all who have helped with this information.
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  #853  
Old 08-22-2018, 11:11 PM
dieselandmud dieselandmud is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 06' X2
Location: Southeast
Posts: 11
Chasing down a fuel pressure drop on my 2006 X2 RTP-1. Going to check for leaky injectors. Could someone please explain how to remove this fuel rail with the injectors still attached?
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  #854  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:43 AM
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Fullpass Fullpass is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft 197 Pro Tournament Team
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In General, not familiar with RPT 1.. You will need a special fuel line disconnect tool, a tool disconnect set is of different sizes for varied line sizes is about 15 dollars, the aluminum set is nice...Autozone or wherever. I would label each injector wire connection as to which cylinder it is connected to.

Steps:

1. Disconnect battery

2. Disconnect fuel line

3. Label injector wires per cylinder

4. Unclip injectors from loom

5. Unbolt fuel rail from intake, will be secured some how

6. Should be able to lift fuel rail up gently..injectors are set/pushed in with O rings. The bolt holding the fuel rail to the intake keeps the injectors from moving up and out.

7. When installing the injectors back into the intake, wet the O rings with gasoline as a lubricant to slide them back in.

If if missed something others can chime N. ~ This was just a general overview. You can also flush the fuel rail out with some gasoline, look at the injector inlet screens for debris.

99 percent of the time fuel leak down is in the gas tank at the pump, most likely the fuel line between the pump and pressure regulator. The Oetiker clamps are key to the fix as mentioned above, but every situation is different. Let us know what solved your problem.
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  #855  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:07 PM
dieselandmud dieselandmud is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 06' X2
Location: Southeast
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Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post

5. Unbolt fuel rail from intake, will be secured some how

6. Should be able to lift fuel rail up gently..injectors are set/pushed in with O rings. The bolt holding the fuel rail to the intake keeps the injectors from moving up and out.
Here is the problem in the pic. No bolts securing the fuel rail to the intake. Appears to be four studs with clips. I've looked under the fuel rail with a mirror and I still can not figure it out.
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  #856  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:18 PM
dieselandmud dieselandmud is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 06' X2
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Posts: 11
After posting , I went back and looked a bit harder with the mirror and found four allen head bolts hiding under the fuel rail . Oetiker clamps kit on order. Thanks for the help
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  #857  
Old 08-25-2018, 09:57 AM
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Fullpass Fullpass is offline
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Disconnect battery

Special disconnect tool will be needed to remove fuel line/lines on top of module

Fuel Module:

The KEY is to use the Oetiker clamps with the ORIGANL FUEL LINE that fits between the pump and pressure regulator. BE patient, the fuel line most likely has a larger I.D on the pump side, smaller I.D. on the pressure regulator side. It is critical to try and save the line, more leak down problems can occur trying to come up with a fuel line substitute. Can ask others how to remove, some had used heat to soften the plastic. I was lucky, mine slipped off with slight hand pressure.

When removing fuel pump module, A new module gasket and new bolts with rubber sealing washers should be used. Dealer has about the best price for gasket...14 bucks, bolts are about 3 bucks each, ask the dealer if you could buy them at a bulk price, gave them to me for 2 bucks each when buying complete set. If you half to remove any female wire terminals from the module, be careful, there is a tab on the female terminal to release a small barb that fits into the male spade terminal, keeps the female locked to the male spade terminal, don't be in a hurry, a small screw driver, push the tab on the female to lift the female terminal off the male spade. This is a General overview, your module may be different, Others can Chime N. Inspect fuel module, others may have had this module out. Can look at/for kinked fuel line, wrong type fuel line used...non submersible rubber hose used...gasoline could have swelled a rubber hose not made for gasoline, radiator clamps used to secure hose...most likely problem, also look for pin holes in fuel line. Let us know what you see/find with the old fuel module, can go from there.
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  #858  
Old 08-31-2018, 08:14 PM
scustoms scustoms is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Boat: Mastercract, 205, 1993, 351PCM
Location: Clayton, CA
Posts: 44
Anyone have a part number for the yellow connector? Earlier links are broken. Or a spare old module I can cannibalize?

Was able to move the pin to the other unused ground and get it to fire. I imagine it is pretty corroded inside the connector. Important to note this failed with a full tank; probably the most full I have ever filled this boat.

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/...EIMZ40MJUJ2xII

2001 X-10 LTR for reference.
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  #859  
Old 09-02-2018, 10:52 AM
petemay121 petemay121 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Boat: Mastercraft, ProStar 190, 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 45
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I have had similar issues with my ProStar. I found the cause was the connector at the top of the fuel pump, yep simple as that!

2 days ago out in the middle of the lake the engine spluttered a few times whilst skiing, then when we stopped it would not start. I opened the back of the boat, took out the skis, pulled out the board, wiggled the connector at the top of the fuel pump and it started no problem. I had this issue last year also, so I just cut the wires and soldered them, that should do the trick for good.

I have cut out so many connectors and soldered the wires, those pesky connectors are failing slowly all around the boat.

Hope this helps....
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2001 ProStar 190 330hp LTR
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