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  #511  
Old 12-07-2014, 01:37 PM
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MCX. I have not changed the fuel filter. I am about to order one. I service the K&N air filter every year. I am also going to replace the PCV just in case. I have seen where it needs replaced every 300. I have about 470. If the these changes do not help I am thinking it may be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Not sure what that would cost me. I can try the fix it yourself fuel pump way.
I do not have any way to test the fuel pressure. How do I do that?
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  #512  
Old 12-07-2014, 01:42 PM
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I have attached a few pictures. Notice the top thing "whatever it is" on the fuel pump is not straight. Not sure if you can tell from these pictures. Also, It is really dirty/oily all over there. This is not the case anywhere else in the boat. I saw a picture of someone else taking a pic of their fuel pump and it was really clean. I am going to clean it up and see if it comes back but is that something that I should be worried about?
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  #513  
Old 12-07-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterwake View Post
MCX. I have not changed the fuel filter. I am about to order one. I service the K&N air filter every year. I am also going to replace the PCV just in case. I have seen where it needs replaced every 300. I have about 470. If the these changes do not help I am thinking it may be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Not sure what that would cost me. I can try the fix it yourself fuel pump way.
I do not have any way to test the fuel pressure. How do I do that?
You need to check for codes, rather than throw parts at it. If the MAF was bad, you'd see the MIL on (not Mother In-Law).

To test the fuel pressure, you need a fuel pressure gauge. Not usually much more than $35 and if you don't want to buy one, go to Autozone, O'Reilley or somewhere that loans tools. It needs to have a purge valve and this would be a great time to take a fuel sample. If the fuel looks bad, it is.

Are you the second owner of this boat? It has a lot of crap on everything. Has the bilge flooded?
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  #514  
Old 12-07-2014, 02:06 PM
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monsterwake monsterwake is offline
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I am second owner. We did have the nose of the boat take a pretty deep dip in November. I will see if I can get a fuel gauge tester. My PCV valve is not actually a valve. It is just an elbow connector plugged a grommet in the valve cover.
I will have to either take it to a Nautique dealer in Tyler or carry it over to TXMC to get the codes from it.
Thanks Guys.
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  #515  
Old 12-07-2014, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterwake View Post
I am second owner. We did have the nose of the boat take a pretty deep dip in November. I will see if I can get a fuel gauge tester. My PCV valve is not actually a valve. It is just an elbow connector plugged a grommet in the valve cover.
I will have to either take it to a Nautique dealer in Tyler or carry it over to TXMC to get the codes from it.
Thanks Guys.
If it's not a PCV valve and it's clean (allows air to pass through), don't worry about it- replacing it will do nothing for you.

Or Supra/Moomba or Malibu dealer. They used Indmar at that time, too.
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  #516  
Old 12-07-2014, 08:01 PM
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The PCV is on the other side of the engine. Ill check the fuel pressure first. I see it needs to be around 55 psi. Is that the same for an MCX?
My fuel pump is a return less. I am just trying to save $800.
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  #517  
Old 12-08-2014, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsterwake View Post
The PCV is on the other side of the engine. Ill check the fuel pressure first. I see it needs to be around 55 psi. Is that the same for an MCX?
My fuel pump is a return less. I am just trying to save $800.
The MCXs need between 58 and 62 psi.
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  #518  
Old 12-09-2014, 03:38 PM
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I am getting a fuel pressure gauge tonight.
Test the pressure with key on and then turn key off to see how long it takes to depressurize.
Anything else? I can get the engine to run for a few seconds if I need to test it while running.
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  #519  
Old 12-09-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterwake View Post
I am getting a fuel pressure gauge tonight.
Test the pressure with key on and then turn key off to see how long it takes to depressurize.
Anything else? I can get the engine to run for a few seconds if I need to test it while running.
No, Key ON, Engine off will only turn the pump on for three seconds, then shut off. If it's not running or cranking, this is all you get with the key in the on position without other intervention.

The test the MC instructors demanded were:

Key On, Engine OFF
Idle
2000RPM- not on the trailer or in neutral, in the water and in gear.
WOT- doesn't need to be for a long time, but it's best to have a second person present, so one can drive and the other can do the testing.

If you see stable pressure and the engine shuts off, make sure you have spark. A timing light is good for this.
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  #520  
Old 12-09-2014, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
No, Key ON, Engine off will only turn the pump on for three seconds, then shut off. If it's not running or cranking, this is all you get with the key in the on position without other intervention.

The test the MC instructors demanded were:

Key On, Engine OFF
Idle
2000RPM- not on the trailer or in neutral, in the water and in gear.
WOT- doesn't need to be for a long time, but it's best to have a second person present, so one can drive and the other can do the testing.

If you see stable pressure and the engine shuts off, make sure you have spark. A timing light is good for this.

Just curious: Where we have the center sun pad that opens facing forward, how exactly do you do a WOT test where you have to open that compartment and stick the gauge on the pressure test port?
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