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Old 08-23-2013, 07:48 PM
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Bad fuel pump- change the whole thing/only pump?

There comes a time in everyone's life when they'll have a bad fuel pump and that time was yesterday afternoon, right when I was going to leave a job site to go home in my van. It ran fine when I made a trip to buy something to make the job I was doing easier and before I left that store, I gassed it up. I turned the key to leave and it fired briefly, then nothing. No priming cycle, no buzz, nothing. I checked the relay and it was clicking. I used a wire to bypass the relay, and didn't even see a tiny spark. Ironically, I was parked across from an abandoned two truck.

In calling around for a replacement, I found: most places sell aftermarket pumps, whole pump assemblies or just the pump. A couple of questions that came up a few times from the people at the parts stores- "Did the pressure drop off after turning the key OFF?" and "Is the plug melted?". The one about the plug is fairly well-known, but the other one about pressure dropping off immediately got my attention.

For those who DIDN'T change the whole assembly and still have problems, the assembly has a check valve, meant to keep the fuel line pressurized and more accurately, filled with fuel. The fuel prevents vapor lock and long cranking time.

I think that the best thing to do is replace the assembly, if possible. The PITA factor is enough to make it seem unrealistic to think that the repair will be complete when old parts are used. I also heard no bad reports about Airtex pumps. One place uses a brand I wasn't familiar with and they put a lot of them in taxi cabs, but they haven't had them return. I had met the guy before but I have known his brother for 40 years, so it's not a matter of some unknown guy said "it works".

Time to shop around for a better price, possibly for a group rate.

Last edited by JimN; 08-23-2013 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
There comes a time in everyone's life when they'll have a bad fuel pump and that time was yesterday afternoon, right when I was going to leave a job site to go home in my van. It ran fine when I made a trip to buy something to make the job I was doing easier and before I left that store, I gassed it up. I turned the key to leave and it fired briefly, then nothing. No priming cycle, no buzz, nothing. I checked the relay and it was clicking. I used a wire to bypass the relay, and didn't even see a tiny spark. Ironically, I was parked across from an abandoned two truck.

In calling around for a replacement, I found: most places sell aftermarket pumps, whole pump assemblies or just the pump. A couple of questions that came up a few times from the people at the parts stores- "Did the pressure drop off after turning the key OFF?" and "Is the plug melted?". The one about the plug is fairly well-known, but the other one about pressure dropping off immediately got my attention.

For those who DIDN'T change the whole assembly and still have problems, the assembly has a check valve, meant to keep the fuel line pressurized and more accurately, filled with fuel. The fuel prevents vapor lock and long cranking time.

I think that the best thing to do is replace the assembly, if possible. The PITA factor is enough to make it seem unrealistic to think that the repair will be complete when old parts are used. I also heard no bad reports about Airtex pumps. One place uses a grand I wasn't familiar with and they put a lot of them in taxi cabs, but they haven't had them return. I had met the guy before but I have known his brother for 40 years, so it's not a matter of some unknown guy said "it works".

Time to shop around for a better price, possibly for a group rate.
Brand??

If so, what brand was it?
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:47 PM
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Brand??

If so, what brand was it?
Yeah, it was supposed to be 'brand'. I'm editing it.

I'll find out.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:56 PM
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I would definitely change out the whole assembly and if possible, use own.....arch as AC Delco or Delphi.
Its a big project so only want to do it once. I'm also checking on my blazer with 330k and prices ate around $205.
Or look online at advanceauto.com use coupon p20 for 20% discount and then just pick it up at your local store.

Or rockauto.com
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ski-me View Post
I would definitely change out the whole assembly and if possible, use own.....arch as AC Delco or Delphi.
Its a big project so only want to do it once. I'm also checking on my blazer with 330k and prices ate around $205.
Or look online at advanceauto.com use coupon p20 for 20% discount and then just pick it up at your local store.

Or rockauto.com
I was quoted $814 by a Chevy dealer- that's the main reason I don't go to that one. The place that did mine is part of a used car dealership and the shop is attached to an Autozone. I know one of the main people at the dealership and the manager of the service department, so I have been going there. They also did the axle seals/rear brakes/pinion seal on my pickup- different guy working on it but I also walked out a few times to watch the progress. I was happy to see heat-shrink/sealing terminals on the harness splice- I have to think some places just use regular butt splices.

Re: the Advance coupon- where were you two days ago?
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
I was quoted $814 by a Chevy dealer- that's the main reason I don't go to that one. The place that did mine is part of a used car dealership and the shop is attached to an Autozone. I know one of the main people at the dealership and the manager of the service department, so I have been going there. They also did the axle seals/rear brakes/pinion seal on my pickup- different guy working on it but I also walked out a few times to watch the progress. I was happy to see heat-shrink/sealing terminals on the harness splice- I have to think some places just use regular butt splices.

Re: the Advance coupon- where were you two days ago?
I can get you a GM oem one for near cost, will need VIN to get exact cost, pm if interested
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:36 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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My experience with using an Autozone fuel pump unit in my Tahoe was that it lasted only 40 thousand miles. It was always easy to hear it initialize when keyed on, so when it went it out, it was easy to diagnose since you could not hear it. The original went 225k miles. Last time the repair shop used a Delco unit. You can't even hear that one at all.

I had to have it towed to shop, and it cost $895 to replace the fuel pump assembly and fuel filter, plus the tow charge. Dang it all.
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:19 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyOrange88 View Post
My experience with using an Autozone fuel pump unit in my Tahoe was that it lasted only 40 thousand miles. It was always easy to hear it initialize when keyed on, so when it went it out, it was easy to diagnose since you could not hear it. The original went 225k miles. Last time the repair shop used a Delco unit. You can't even hear that one at all.

I had to have it towed to shop, and it cost $895 to replace the fuel pump assembly and fuel filter, plus the tow charge. Dang it all.
This is why I would only recommend an oem part only. Just not worth it for that much labor! AC Delco for me!
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