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  #11  
Old 01-13-2016, 09:30 PM
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mike koen mike koen is offline
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There is also another deutsch connector under the dash which is in series with the one by the engine starter.Can cause the same problem.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2016, 09:33 PM
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I hesitate to say this again, but I may have actually got it this time. In all my searching for a corroded connection, the only one I found was what I thought was a dead end. In the bilge under the motor was a 12 pin deutsch connector that went nowhere. It was simply capped off. I figured it was for some accessory that I didn't have. It had corrosion under the cap which I lightly cleaned up.

Well, some more tracing cables revealed that these were the CAN bus wires! That cap really contained 4 separate bus bars to splice wires together! They used 9 of those pins to splice 3 CAN bus cables together. Splicing signal wires together on the floor of the bilge that is under water most of the time... brilliant.

With some research I figured out how to disassemble the deutsch connectors. They were a mess inside. I ordered a new cap since it was sealed and I could not get in to clean it. I ordered new pins for the female side on the boat, and rebuilt that connector by cutting back to new wire. I'm 99% sure this is going to fix it for good. I also rerouted that entire wire harness up out of the bilge so this doesn't happen again.

Corroded pins


Re-terminated pins


Deutsch connector disassembled


All back together



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  #13  
Old 03-15-2016, 01:06 PM
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I wonder if my 2002 prostar has this connection point under the motor...

when do you plan on testing this and posting results?
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2016, 01:33 PM
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Another thing that helped me, I found the Indmar MEFI wiring diagram here: https://www.bakesonline.com/boatinfo.aspx

I used that to find where the CAN bus wire comes out of the ECM and started tracing that wire forward towards the MMDC. You can see in my picture each CAN bus cable is 3 wires: 1 clear, 1 black and 1 bare. When not at a connector, all 3 wires are inside a gray PVC insulation as a single cable. There is also a CAN bus cable that comes from the tri-ducer. That is what the splice in the bilge is for, it splices the cable from the ECM, tri-ducer and MMDC together.

Not sure if this same setup applies to the older boats. I think on those the gauges feed the MMDC directly, not via CAN bus. On mine the gauges feed the ECM which sends data to the MMDC over the CAN bus.

I've tested this several times in the garage and the gauges always come alive. Even when the battery was low at 10.8 volts. This issue was so intermittent, I probably won't consider it fixed until I have multiple successful outings with no issue.
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  #15  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianS View Post
Another thing that helped me, I found the Indmar MEFI wiring diagram here: https://www.bakesonline.com/boatinfo.aspx

I used that to find where the CAN bus wire comes out of the ECM and started tracing that wire forward towards the MMDC. You can see in my picture each CAN bus cable is 3 wires: 1 clear, 1 black and 1 bare. When not at a connector, all 3 wires are inside a gray PVC insulation as a single cable. There is also a CAN bus cable that comes from the tri-ducer. That is what the splice in the bilge is for, it splices the cable from the ECM, tri-ducer and MMDC together.

Not sure if this same setup applies to the older boats. I think on those the gauges feed the MMDC directly, not via CAN bus. On mine the gauges feed the ECM which sends data to the MMDC over the CAN bus.

I've tested this several times in the garage and the gauges always come alive. Even when the battery was low at 10.8 volts. This issue was so intermittent, I probably won't consider it fixed until I have multiple successful outings with no issue.
thank you.
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  #16  
Old 05-16-2016, 10:13 PM
trunderw trunderw is offline
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Brian - Very informative write-up. Fortunately, I don't have that problem but I will be checking the location/condition of that particular cap.
Any advice on the depth gauge not reading the correct depth (reads approximately 2.3')... we have the same boat.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2016, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trunderw View Post
Brian - Very informative write-up. Fortunately, I don't have that problem but I will be checking the location/condition of that particular cap.
Any advice on the depth gauge not reading the correct depth (reads approximately 2.3')... we have the same boat.
I had a problem with the wiring to the tri-ducer that caused me to loose my speed reading from the paddle wheel. Turned out one of the wires in the connector where the tri-ducer plugs in was loose and just pulled out. I just hardwired it back together around the connector and got the paddle wheel reading back.

My tri-ducer is in the bilge under the front starboard side of the engine. I would check the connector on it and make sure there are no loose wires.
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  #18  
Old 05-17-2016, 10:18 AM
trunderw trunderw is offline
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I think it's time to thoroughly inspect all the connections in the bilge area. I'll check that connector specifically and hope things come back. Thank you
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2018, 11:28 AM
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This post fixed my problem too.
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