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  #1  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:19 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
1983 Stars and Stripes Restoration

I just purchased my first Mastercraft last week. My father has always loved the MC S&S, so I finally decided to take the plunge and purchase one that I can bring back to life! This will be my first venture into a resto project, so I'm here just asking for any tips I can get on where to start and what to look for.

This boat runs like a beast! No boat I've ever owned has had the power that this one does, and it's an absolute joy to drive. I'm not very mechanically inclined so I'm going to call on my boat mechanic friend to assist with any issues here, but everything seems to run soundly. The interior needs some work, so I'm going to have it completely redone (any ideas on how to track down vinyl with the MC logo embossed like it came with originally on the motor cover?) I want to keep the boat as close to 100% original as possible, but if you guys have any recommendations mechanically to ensure it remains more reliable on the late would be appreciated.

I plan on repainting the trailer this weekend and replacing the bunks and carpeting. One question I have is regarding the "swingarm" that has to be put in place over the D ring when loading. I've never seen this on a boat before, and it makes it pretty difficult to load the boat alone. Any ideas here?

One final issue for now is the gel coat, decals, and rubber rail. The gel coat seems to be in pretty good shape except for a few deep scratches. What should I use to buff/wax the exterior? Is there anything I can buy to fill in the deep scratches/chips in the metal flake? Where would I find original decals? I found some online on ebay, but I want to make sure the color is original and the vinyl is high quality. The rubber rail that runs around the boat has taken a beating, and I'd like to replace it at some point. Where would one go about finding that part?

I apologize for asking some dumb questions, but this is my first attempt at this, and instead of just throwing a bunch of money at it, I'd like to take pride in knowing I did a lot of the work myself. Thank you in advance for the help!
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2018, 11:25 PM
Miss Rita's Avatar
Miss Rita Miss Rita is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Boat: 1992 ProStar 205, 1991 Ski Pro
Location: Black Hills
Posts: 1,359
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ead.php?t=5427

If you glance through this I bet you'll find the answer to 90% of your questions.

I see you already have a case of MCOCD. Sorry, there's no cure.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2018, 11:48 PM
Olaff's Avatar
Olaff Olaff is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Boat: 2001 Prostar 205V. 1982 S&S Powerslot (sold).
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 859
"She's a beauty Clark!"
I had a late model '82 with the PowerSlot. It was the fastest boat in a drag race to 45mph on my community lake. But I could set the throttle anywhere from 3 mph to 45 mph and she would hold steady. I taught numerous kids to waterski, wakeboard, and kneeboard behind that boat. They are legendary. Treat her nice and do it right. It's an excellent boat to learn on all the way around.
As for the bow arm. The best way I ever found was to back the trailer WAY in, then just float/handload the boat to the trailer. It's like impossible to get it right by driving the boat onto the trailer alone.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2018, 12:21 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ead.php?t=5427

If you glance through this I bet you'll find the answer to 90% of your questions.

I see you already have a case of MCOCD. Sorry, there's no cure.
Thanks for the link! Severe OCD indeed!
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2018, 12:24 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
"She's a beauty Clark!"
I had a late model '82 with the PowerSlot. It was the fastest boat in a drag race to 45mph on my community lake. But I could set the throttle anywhere from 3 mph to 45 mph and she would hold steady. I taught numerous kids to waterski, wakeboard, and kneeboard behind that boat. They are legendary. Treat her nice and do it right. It's an excellent boat to learn on all the way around.
As for the bow arm. The best way I ever found was to back the trailer WAY in, then just float/handload the boat to the trailer. It's like impossible to get it right by driving the boat onto the trailer alone.
Thanks! She runs for sure! I thought about that with the bow arm, but figured I'd have trouble keeping it centered in the trailer as I pulled it out of the water. I'm gonna give it a shot though, thanks for the response!
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:06 PM
stuartmcnair's Avatar
stuartmcnair stuartmcnair is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Boat: 1989 Prostar 190 351 Indmar
Location: Tuscaloosa
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ead.php?t=5427

If you glance through this I bet you'll find the answer to 90% of your questions.

I see you already have a case of MCOCD. Sorry, there's no cure.

You know most of those links and photos are all dead now, right?
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  #7  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:31 PM
Miss Rita's Avatar
Miss Rita Miss Rita is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Boat: 1992 ProStar 205, 1991 Ski Pro
Location: Black Hills
Posts: 1,359
Quote:
You know most of those links and photos are all dead now, right?
No, I wasn't aware. There's still some useful information though.

Looks like a project for someone with MCOCD to update!
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:38 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Boat: 2017 X10
Location: Center Hill Lake, Old Hickory, and Norris Lakes in TN
Posts: 2,127
Great looking boat! A few suggestions:

1. Call your dealer on the vinyl options and see who they use locally. I live in TN where we have 20+ boat manufacturers, so we have a lot of choices. My guess is that your dealer has someone to recommend too. Many on here have sent their seats/skins to Viper, and some have had mixed results. You might also try these guys: http://theupholsteryworkshop.net/mcskins#mastercraft

2. There are several threads on here about restoring gelcoat, and personally this comes down to the right tool (Makita random orbital) and the combination of the right pads (Lake Country pads), and the right chemicals. If you don't have to wet sand, then I like to go with a heavy cutting pad and 3M Super Duty Marine Compound, then down to a medium/light pad and 3M Finesse-It II Marine Glaze, then polish and wax.

Here's the proven method from BrianM:

-3M Super Duty Compound on a Circular Polisher with a Wool Pad
-3M Finesse It II Polishing Compound on a Circular Polisher with an Orange Foam Pad
- Meguires Polish (Step 2 of their 3 step system) with an Orbital and a White Foam Pad
-Meguires Carnuba Wax with an Orbital and a Red Foam Pad

3. For decals, your best bets are normally Great Lakes Skipper or Midwest MasterCraft. There is also a graphics repository from MikeG here with a lot of images that you could download and send to a print shop for reproduction. https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=51858

Keep the pics coming. We all love a good restoration project!
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2018, 04:42 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
No, I wasn't aware. There's still some useful information though.

Looks like a project for someone with MCOCD to update!
Yea, there's still some great info here!
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2018, 04:46 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
Great looking boat! A few suggestions:

1. Call your dealer on the vinyl options and see who they use locally. I live in TN where we have 20+ boat manufacturers, so we have a lot of choices. My guess is that your dealer has someone to recommend too. Many on here have sent their seats/skins to Viper, and some have had mixed results. You might also try these guys: http://theupholsteryworkshop.net/mcskins#mastercraft

2. There are several threads on here about restoring gelcoat, and personally this comes down to the right tool (Makita random orbital) and the combination of the right pads (Lake Country pads), and the right chemicals. If you don't have to wet sand, then I like to go with a heavy cutting pad and 3M Super Duty Marine Compound, then down to a medium/light pad and 3M Finesse-It II Marine Glaze, then polish and wax.

Here's the proven method from BrianM:

-3M Super Duty Compound on a Circular Polisher with a Wool Pad
-3M Finesse It II Polishing Compound on a Circular Polisher with an Orange Foam Pad
- Meguires Polish (Step 2 of their 3 step system) with an Orbital and a White Foam Pad
-Meguires Carnuba Wax with an Orbital and a Red Foam Pad

3. For decals, your best bets are normally Great Lakes Skipper or Midwest MasterCraft. There is also a graphics repository from MikeG here with a lot of images that you could download and send to a print shop for reproduction. https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=51858

Keep the pics coming. We all love a good restoration project!
Thanks a ton for the insight! Would you recommend compounding/polishing the gel coat before removing and applying the new decals? I cant imagine being able to accurately re-apply them if I refinished the exterior after removing the old ones.
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