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  #21  
Old 06-20-2014, 07:24 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
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If the transom radius seems too much, you could come up with a rubber spacer to accommodate for the difference.
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  #22  
Old 06-25-2014, 12:23 AM
dfski dfski is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: 1992 ProStar 205
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Thanks for the suggestion for the rubber spacer. I may end up going that route but would like a perfect fit. How have others dealt with the transom radius. Where’s the best source?
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  #23  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:02 PM
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georgea0731 georgea0731 is offline
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Did anyone every post the size of the grab rail?

Forgive me, but I didn't see it. I think it says their were PMed.
I've previously read the detail thread with pictures that someone did a great job making with the re enforcement piece of metal and they went through the metal/rubber rub rail that goes around the boat, not the hull underneath it. I was thinking of doing the same, but like the hull mounted ones slightly better. I assume I'd need to put a large piece of metal for backing.
Anyone know how big the backing is on the 205/190 versions or what would be a safe size?
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  #24  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:31 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgea0731 View Post
Forgive me, but I didn't see it. I think it says their were PMed.
I've previously read the detail thread with pictures that someone did a great job making with the re enforcement piece of metal and they went through the metal/rubber rub rail that goes around the boat, not the hull underneath it. I was thinking of doing the same, but like the hull mounted ones slightly better. I assume I'd need to put a large piece of metal for backing.
Anyone know how big the backing is on the 205/190 versions or what would be a safe size?
You resurrected an old thread George but I'll share what little I know.

I have added several grab handles on the older models (they did not come with one) upon rebuilding the boat. Same as the 93 I have. I go inside (rotate the fuel cell without removing it) and add aluminum backing plates about 2" x 2" x 3/16 (or whatever the scrap yard has) and used them as you state, as a backing plate.

The larger the plate in size (say 4" x 15" for example), the more you need to compensate for the radius of the transom, so in all cases I have worked, the smaller backing plate(s) at each machine screw has worked just fine and is strong as an Ox. The machine screws come though a ~3/4" piece of wood that the transom is reinforced with from the mold, then the fiber cloth and resin. It's pretty strong unless you are a great big ol' fat boy, and even at that, it will hold until the cows come home.

For me??? I'd not even consider using the rub rail etc. Just too much there to deal with and too close to two different edges of material (deck and hull). Transom will work perfectly fine and it's an easy fix for a strong end product.

I have photographs somewhere if you want to see the last one I installed. Not much to see other than what I described.

.
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  #25  
Old 09-22-2018, 09:42 PM
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georgea0731 georgea0731 is offline
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Waterlogged 882 Thanks

I appreciate your input, but I'm still wondering what size handle to really go with.
If you can find any more info. that's always great and we all love pictures of boats.
Thanks again!
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