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Old 04-01-2016, 06:48 PM
kryzmc93 kryzmc93 is offline
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Prostar 93 seat base issue

I have a new two inch rise drivers seat base for my 93 prostar. After the initial install the 8 lag bolts pulled right out of the base. What's the best solution for permanently getting that seat to stay attached to the boat?
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:08 PM
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Rockman Rockman is offline
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Post some pics..


Waterlogged did this...he will able to provide some insite.



Where are you in Wisco?
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:49 PM
atihanyi atihanyi is offline
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Pull The Floor Around The Pylon . That Should Give You The Access To The Underside To Thru Bolt It With Large Stainless Washers On The Underside
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:56 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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It Won't Give Access From That Point. Stringer Bay Is Enclosed And Isolates The Under-Seat Area.

Waiting On Pictures To See What Is What.

.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:40 PM
kryzmc93 kryzmc93 is offline
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Rockman I am in Salem, WI near Kenosha

There is no way to get at the underside to through bolt. I had seen posts in the past that talked about filling the holes with epoxy and threading a lag bolt into that. I can't find the post again to see the process and wondered if anyone had any good ideas.
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Old 04-02-2016, 06:49 AM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryzmc93 View Post
...There is no way to get at the underside to through bolt.
There is a way. However it requires surgery.

There is an alternate solution of filling the holes but it is not the best fix, although the path of lesser resistance. There is one slight trick to getting epoxy resin in the void without running it into a bottomless pit.

How long are the original lag screws and are they really lag screws or machine screws? The length will tell how to next go about filling the holes. I can tell you how to fix it but I need more information. It's not hard at all.
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:53 PM
kryzmc93 kryzmc93 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
There is a way. However it requires surgery.

There is an alternate solution of filling the holes but it is not the best fix, although the path of lesser resistance. There is one slight trick to getting epoxy resin in the void without running it into a bottomless pit.

How long are the original lag screws and are they really lag screws or machine screws? The length will tell how to next go about filling the holes. I can tell you how to fix it but I need more information. It's not hard at all.
The lags are 1 1/2" I can use a different size if there is a benefit. I of course want an easy fix but I want it to last. so that's why I'm asking the experts. We had to grind out the old mounting studs to get the seat off to re-carpet and re-vinyl.
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:00 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
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EDIT: my post is about fixing the problem of the seat platform coming loose from the floor itself. Perhaps you were asking about the studs in the rotomolded seat itself. Not sure and my '91 may be different.

That said...I had the same problem with my 1991 PS190. Believe or not I used a guitar nut repair trick of baking soda and thin super glue to build up the floor holes. Put a little bit of baking soda around the edges of the hole, then hit it with a few drops of thin super glue. Work with it a few times and you can salvage the stripped floor holes so that the screws will grab again. I have had to redo some at the end of each season but overall this is workable. The floor material is soft stuff (but at least it tolerates water well) so short of major surgery this has worked well enough.

Last edited by GKinTN; 04-10-2016 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:04 PM
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Blackhawk36 Blackhawk36 is offline
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Has anyone considered drilling out the holes and retapping them or using a heli-coil. My sons picked up a 1995 prostar 190 and we are restoring it. The drivers seat mount is a pile of rust. I haven't dug into it yet so I don't even know what is down there. Are there metal sleeves or just big washers underneath.
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:49 PM
kryzmc93 kryzmc93 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhawk36 View Post
Has anyone considered drilling out the holes and retapping them or using a heli-coil. My sons picked up a 1995 prostar 190 and we are restoring it. The drivers seat mount is a pile of rust. I haven't dug into it yet so I don't even know what is down there. Are there metal sleeves or just big washers underneath.

There are metal plates glassed into seat base just where the original studs came out. On mine the studs were rusted and had to be ground off to get seat off to recover. I installed a different base that had a that was 3" higher and has adjustments for both for and aft and it will swivel. The 3" rise makes it much easier to see over windshield.
The upholstery company lagged the seat base into the floor but that was not a solid solution. Some people here suggest a trick with epoxy or resin to create good hold for the lags or screws. I did not feel that was a solid solution and felt that the base needed to be through bolted to be strong and have longevity. Here is what I did.

1. removed carpet over base area
2. Using tape I marked out an x shaped area that when removed would allow me to remove the 2" of foam to access the bolt holes I needed.
3. I used a jigsaw to cut out the x.
4. I used a long drill bit with an extension to bore into the foam and create path to get the flat head bolt in.
5. I used a curved needle nose pliers to get the flathead bolt in.
6. I used a flat stainless nut insert to sandwich the flathead bolt to the glass and create a flat strong surface to mount the seat base.
7. I then refilled the open area with closed cell foam, replaced the x and sealed it all up.
8. I re-glued the carpet down and bolted the base down.

Very solid long term fix and it was not a tough job.

I will attach a pic of the x and bolts I used
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