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  #4001  
Old 11-19-2013, 06:33 PM
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GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2oskifreak View Post
Finished my wax job. Two coats on the hull and I think I my top speed will increase by 2-4 mph as I have such a shine in place the water won't actually touch the hull,lol. Seriously, I do not plan to pull my prop before storage and some say to "grease the stainless shaft". I have not done this in years past but what would I use and how thick?
The saying "any grease is better than no grease" comes to mind here. Just a thin layer will do as anything more gets squeezed out or otherwise goes away over time. You should be using some grease on your trailer ball hitch (maybe you don't trailer); just use that. If you don't have any, I'd buy a small can of marine grease.
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  #4002  
Old 11-19-2013, 07:12 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
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Boat: 1991 Prostar 190
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I just replaced ALL the rivets holding my rub rail onto my newly acquired '91 PS190. Took me two long afternoons...whew! The original rail is in quite decent condition, just that over the years a dock bump or two must have loosened up most of the rivets. Instead of upgrading to screws/bolts I simply replaced the rivets, however I ran an ample amount of silicone underneath the entire rail and also added extra silicone at each rivet point. It's now solid as a rock, and is now glued in place not just held every 6" by a rivet or screw. The trick was getting the old rail insert back in as it's barely in the 50s here and I'm working outside. I used a heat gun and worked the insert back in about 2" at a time. 3/16" aluminum pop rivets with 1/2" deep grip worked great.
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  #4003  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKinTN View Post
I just replaced ALL the rivets holding my rub rail onto my newly acquired '91 PS190. Took me two long afternoons...whew! The original rail is in quite decent condition, just that over the years a dock bump or two must have loosened up most of the rivets. Instead of upgrading to screws/bolts I simply replaced the rivets, however I ran an ample amount of silicone underneath the entire rail and also added extra silicone at each rivet point. It's now solid as a rock, and is now glued in place not just held every 6" by a rivet or screw. The trick was getting the old rail insert back in as it's barely in the 50s here and I'm working outside. I used a heat gun and worked the insert back in about 2" at a time. 3/16" aluminum pop rivets with 1/2" deep grip worked great.
That's the way to do it.. I did mine 2 seasons ago - any pictures?
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  #4004  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:25 PM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
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Sorry no pics. But I could take a pic of the blisters on my thumbs! Just kidding there, but I could tell another hour or two and I would have had blisters. I was going to try the hot water method to soften the rubber, but with it getting cold outside I decided to keep things dry and go with the heat gun instead.

I had one section (transom left) that I had to redo it as there were two sets of holes originally on the boat and on the rail, one that was a bit crooked which I accidently used to reattach and it was slanted. I bet it was a goof from day one. That said, it took a stiff putty knife to separate things (after drilling out the new rivets) to redo it so it gave me confidence that the silicone really adds some sturdiness to the rub rail attachment. Originally I was just going with rivets and silicone to save $ over 100+ stainless screws/nuts, but I'm glad it looks like it's going to work out even better.

GK
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  #4005  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKinTN View Post
Sorry no pics. But I could take a pic of the blisters on my thumbs! Just kidding there, but I could tell another hour or two and I would have had blisters. I was going to try the hot water method to soften the rubber, but with it getting cold outside I decided to keep things dry and go with the heat gun instead.

I had one section (transom left) that I had to redo it as there were two sets of holes originally on the boat and on the rail, one that was a bit crooked which I accidently used to reattach and it was slanted. I bet it was a goof from day one. That said, it took a stiff putty knife to separate things (after drilling out the new rivets) to redo it so it gave me confidence that the silicone really adds some sturdiness to the rub rail attachment. Originally I was just going with rivets and silicone to save $ over 100+ stainless screws/nuts, but I'm glad it looks like it's going to work out even better.

GK
awesome! it's a project takin' them old rivets out.... I used 3M 5200 - I hope to never redo this job in my lifetime..
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  #4006  
Old 11-20-2013, 01:09 AM
GKinTN GKinTN is offline
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Yep I hear the 5200 is great stuff. I guess I'm taking a chance just using GE silicone, though I really think it's going to last longer than just rivets alone.
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  #4007  
Old 11-20-2013, 06:36 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKinTN View Post
Yep I hear the 5200 is great stuff. I guess I'm taking a chance just using GE silicone, though I really think it's going to last longer than just rivets alone.
5200 is not about being great. It's about your application and intent. 5200 is permanent, as in not intended to be removed without some hook or crook of more than average effort. The silicone will work perfectly and will last a long time. That is exactly what I have used many times over.

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  #4008  
Old 12-09-2013, 11:37 AM
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I put my four yr old to work, since he loves cleaning. I gave him a damp rag and told him to just wipe down the seats. He did a pretty good job, bc the rag was pretty dirty when he got done. I was taking the cushions out and hitting up a couple spots with a toothbrush that were mildewed. I was able to get the majority of it and I am fairly satisfied with the results. I also removed the drivers seat and removed the bolster and middle cushion to clean under and around there, which was in need of cleaning. I did some vacuuming, but did not get too crazy bc I still have some wet sanding and buffing to do. I removed the Maristar decals on the stbd side of the deck to start on some repair work. Upon removing the stickers, I noticed some shadowing from the sun, which I expected. I was not worried bc I can just wet sand the spots to get them back to glacier white again. However, I started with 1000 grit and have gone down to 400 grit and it is still yellowed around the letters. I guess I will just have to keep going until it is not longer noticeable. Unfortunately the Maristar stickers are no longer available so I can't just cover it back up. BTW, there was a MasterCraft logo there to begin with, but the PO changed it to Maristar and put the MC logo on the hull, which I like better anyway.

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  #4009  
Old 12-11-2013, 06:46 PM
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I was able to get the hub oil changed in one of the wheels, which turned out to be a pretty easy job. The most difficult part was getting the lug nuts loose. I am not able to get to the other wheel just yet as it is a little tight as far as space is concerned. I also went ahead and got a head start on replacing the steering cable by taking the bolts loose in front and at the back. I will probably just wait until I get a new one in before I continue that project. I went to Skidim for a price but found the same cable for about $40 cheaper from a boat parts supply store in Pensacola.

I have read several of the how to threads on the steering cable replacement and how you know you have the correct cable. I can just go off of the number on the cable itself, which is a 20' cable. Skidim told me that I need a 19' cable but I am just curious to know if anyone has put a 19' cable in their 210 instead. The 20' present looks like it has a bit of slack behind the dash kick plate and maybe this is needed but I wouldn't mind getting rid of any unnecessary slack. Not a huge deal, just curious.
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  #4010  
Old 12-11-2013, 08:03 PM
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Make them stand behind their suggestion.!!!!! The extra foot sometimes makes for an easier transition to a perpendicular run. If you have the room Smoooooth.
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