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  #31  
Old 11-09-2013, 02:08 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
Do the riser gaskets go on dry? Or with some permatex?
Dry in all of my experiences.
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  #32  
Old 11-09-2013, 02:19 PM
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I believe this is the solution for torquing the back bolts on the risers. I used it to get one of them off so I know it fits.

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  #33  
Old 11-09-2013, 02:27 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
I believe this is the solution for torquing the back bolts on the risers. I used it to get one of them off so I know it fits.

If it works for you, that is all that counts....

Technically, that changes the moment about the 90 deg axis and your truly desired torque value will not be achieved. But again I say, "Technically, it really does not matter." Your on the right track.

About the only way to screw this up at this point is to drop the riser on a hard floor...

Best

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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  #34  
Old 11-09-2013, 07:06 PM
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Well, you guessed it, another setback. Got the left manifold on, torqued it down properly, put on the riser, started to torque it down, and pulled the threads out of the manifold on both front bolts. Did not reach the specified torque before this happened. My guess is that corrosion got to the threads and took away their strength. Damn. I chased the threads before install too.

Has anybody tried to helicoil these? Not a lot of material to work with on the outboard side of the bolt. I haven't tried to do the other manifold yet -- afraid the same thing will happen.
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  #35  
Old 11-09-2013, 07:27 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
Well, you guessed it, another setback. Got the left manifold on, torqued it down properly, put on the riser, started to torque it down, and pulled the threads out of the manifold on both front bolts. Did not reach the specified torque before this happened. My guess is that corrosion got to the threads and took away their strength. Damn. I chased the threads before install too.

Has anybody tried to helicoil these? Not a lot of material to work with on the outboard side of the bolt. I haven't tried to do the other manifold yet -- afraid the same thing will happen.
I have heard of them working. Never use them myself. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to try, considering the light torque values for the connections.

Drill to next size and tap? ?? ??

The gasket between the exhaust manifold and the riser has specific direction that it is installed. The blocked water passage goes towards the exhaust outlet.

Here's what I got from the 351 engine manual (water housing outlet torque specs)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 11-09-2013 at 07:39 PM.
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  #36  
Old 11-09-2013, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strad View Post
Well, you guessed it, another setback. Got the left manifold on, torqued it down properly, put on the riser, started to torque it down, and pulled the threads out of the manifold on both front bolts. Did not reach the specified torque before this happened. My guess is that corrosion got to the threads and took away their strength. Damn. I chased the threads before install too.

Has anybody tried to helicoil these? Not a lot of material to work with on the outboard side of the bolt. I haven't tried to do the other manifold yet -- afraid the same thing will happen.
That sucks! Helicoil should work fine- use the ones that are as deep as the hole. The coil should come with instructions for the correct drill size.
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  #37  
Old 11-09-2013, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strad View Post
Well, you guessed it, another setback. Got the left manifold on, torqued it down properly, put on the riser, started to torque it down, and pulled the threads out of the manifold on both front bolts. Did not reach the specified torque before this happened. My guess is that corrosion got to the threads and took away their strength. Damn. I chased the threads before install too.

Has anybody tried to helicoil these? Not a lot of material to work with on the outboard side of the bolt. I haven't tried to do the other manifold yet -- afraid the same thing will happen.
I would drill and tap to next size as well.
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  #38  
Old 11-10-2013, 09:09 PM
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strad strad is offline
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Well I helicoiled. I ended up doing all four. I could not get to the correct torque on the back bolts without pulling out the threads. Here's proof that it is done. The left one is the one that gave all the trouble -- incidentally it was the left one where the gasket was leaking badly. The right one was leaking too but not as much. Anyways, after the helicoil they all torqued up really nicely. I went to just a hair shy of 20 lbs.



and



I vacuumed and wiped down the bilge too. Just gotta cut the new exhaust hoses now.
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  #39  
Old 11-10-2013, 10:01 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
Just gotta cut the new exhaust hoses now.
Approach carefully. Do not final-cut the hoses until you have done a test fit. Don't go cutting a certain length on a 90 deg cut. It doesn't work that way. Best I recall is 19" for each hose to make the fit. The exhaust port on the riser does not line up on the same axis as the exhaust (they are a little off), therefore you will not get a perfect fit. The hose will have a tiny bit of a bend in it near the riser. Live with it.

Best way to fit the hoses are to do the hoses before securing the risers back into place. They are much easier to work with when the risers off.

Softwall hoses will cut easily with a box cutter. Wired hose is about the same other than the tough wire. Don't ruin a good pair of Klines on that nasty wire., Use some junker cutters.

Don't forget the anti-seize compound on the hose connections....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 11-10-2013 at 10:32 PM.
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  #40  
Old 11-11-2013, 12:11 AM
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Yeah I didn't start yet because I know the ones I pulled off aren't a good template! They are softwall and both were kinked in such a way as to close off about half the opening. I assume they aren't original (mc would not have installed them that way lol) but they appear to be quite old.
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