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  #11  
Old 11-06-2013, 11:04 AM
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scott023 scott023 is offline
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I burn 18 litters per hour in an X45 with a 496BB in it... I think you're consumption is way above what it should be.
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2013, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
Thanks Jim.

Thermostat is a 160. IR heat gun and Temp guage on dash confirms. ECT has been replaced, and all other sensors have been checked or replaced. Motor does not bog down on full throttle pull off.

I can still smell strong fuel smell at the rear of the boat with puffs of diesel like black smoke on some hard pull outs, but it is way better than before when I had black sooty residue up the transom. New fuel filter and pump, new fuel lines, new pressure regulator. Currently set at 32 PSI (factory spec is 30psi) but this 2 PSI should not create such heavy consumption - if it is heavy as I do not know what is "Normal".

It would be nice if adjusting the 2PSI down would make that much difference but I doubt it. I wanted to find out what the "average" was before looking for an issue.

If the collective intellegence on this forum suggests it is high I will be adjusting the PSI down, and then retesting all sensors, and perhaps spending a day with the 4 blade 13 x 13 to compare.

Cheers
Mark
Check for codes- if code 33/34 comes up, it points to the MAP sensor and this could cause problems like you're describing. Also, if you want to check the fuel "cone" from the injectors, remove the flame arrestor, start the engine and shine a timing light on the cone. It's like stop-action, so the gas will look like it's not moving at all, if it even looks like it's moving. If you see any gaps (called 'tearing', as in 'tearing' paper), it could be that the injectors need cleaning, could be a faulty regulator or something along those lines. Also, the knock sensor's operation should be verified- run the engine and watch the timing advance as you increase RPM. I would recommend doing this while under way, not in idle, but it will advance in either case. When the timing has advanced, hit a motor mount with a hammer (on top of the large adjuster bolt at the deck is a good place) to watch for the timing to change. If it doesn't change, use a screwdriver and tap on the knock sensor and look for the timing to retard. You should have base timing at 10BTDC and should see about 30-35 of additional advance, for total advance of about 40. If you don't see this much advance, unplug the knock sensor wire and see if it helps. If it does, you may have a bad knock sensor.

If you didn't put it into diagnostic mode when you set the timing, you need to do that, or it's not correct. The timing mark will be stable when it's in this mode and when it's jumping around, it's not possible to be accurate. Watch the timing light on hard acceleration- if it skips, you may have mid-fire. If the plug wires haven't been changed (I don't remember all of what you wrote about changing) and they're more than a few years old, you could have cross-fire.
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2013, 03:15 PM
PureInboards PureInboards is offline
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Don't bother with codes remove flame arrestor and check the injectors in the throttle body aren't dripping first and then with timing light if you have one, then check codes. Also if black smoke will be running rich pull dipstick and oil will prob smell like petrol and spark plugs will be black. Get this fixed as you will be bull washing the cylinders (had to rebuild an engine last year that had leaking injectors) If injectors are leaking check filters (including screen on pump) and flush lines
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:24 PM
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Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft X5 2001. 310hp preditor
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Thanks Guys, Seems there is something I can do, Good, now to find it!

Injectors are new, fuel lines, filter, and fuel pump , regulator diaphram all new. PSI constant at 32 - factory spec 30psi so I will turn it down. Injector spray is a perfect cone and no drips or leaks (but will check again). It does however struggle to start on occasion when hot but full throttle gets it going quickly. I always idle to shore so no quick shut down.

Checked and no Codes. Timing dead on 10degrees while in diagnostic and it sits still. Was showing code 44 last time and I changed the knock sensor so its new. I still have a stutter/ misfire at about 4500rpm but it has always been there.

ECT new, MAP sensor new, AIC new, thermostats new. New plugs, new plug wires, new distributer cap and rotor. Also new impeller. All changed in stages over winter trying to get it running and reliable.

Also new MDC.

Will pull plugs today and check, will also check oil.

I would have thought a slightly smaller prop, with a taller pitch would help reduce fuel consumption not increase it? Will do further research on this.

Mastercraft dealer refuses to service any Mastercraft boat prior to 2004 as they did not import it so I have no help from them. There are other guys I can use but they are 4 hours drive away so hesitant to do so if I can solve myself.

Thanks so far guys

Cheers
Mark
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:44 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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My 2003 X-2 with the same engine burns around 30 lph (8gph) when fully loaded out for wakeboarding. Unloaded I'm around 17lph (4.5gph). I tracked fuel consumption all summer. I have the 14.25x14.5 prop with about 3000lbs of ballast. Wakeboarding I'm usually at 3700rpms when loaded.
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  #16  
Old 11-07-2013, 03:22 AM
PureInboards PureInboards is offline
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Where did you get the injectors from? Also if you can find an engine serial number either post or PM me and I will check it out
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  #17  
Old 11-07-2013, 04:18 AM
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Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PureInboards View Post
Where did you get the injectors from? Also if you can find an engine serial number either post or PM me and I will check it out
Sending PM shortly. I took the origional injectors to be professionaly cleaned / reconditioned. There were no markings on them, so I asked the shop to tell me what they were and supply me a brand new set for the throttle body set up. I am using the new set and keeping the origional set as spares. They tell me the injectors for this motor are nothing special, just GM TBI injectors and have matched the flow rate.
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2013, 12:26 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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My previous boat was an 01 X5. I had the stock prop and did boarding, skiing and tubing and never had fuel consumption like yours.
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  #19  
Old 11-10-2013, 02:00 AM
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Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Thanks for your responses Guys.

I have checked the resistance from the ECT, MAP and TPS sensors, as well as the earth cable to battery again and all seems to be with in spec. (ps they are all new anyway)

Adjusted Fuel pressure regulator to 30psi, although manual recommends 30psi minimum, and therfore I suspect it could be higher and not affect the motor.

Put old 4 blade prop back on (13 x 13) but it allows the motor to rev up to 4500rpm where it starts to missfire. Rev limit is 5200 but I am unable to rev passed 4500 due to the severe misfire / splutter. Pulls like a freight train untill about 43-4400rpm but I cannot barefoot behind it at this speed.

I also pulled the spark plugs to check and have attached photos below. Gap set at 1.1mm as per manual. What do you think?

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Mark
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  #20  
Old 11-10-2013, 09:34 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
Thanks Guys, Seems there is something I can do, Good, now to find it!

Injectors are new, fuel lines, filter, and fuel pump , regulator diaphram all new. PSI constant at 32 - factory spec 30psi so I will turn it down. Injector spray is a perfect cone and no drips or leaks (but will check again). It does however struggle to start on occasion when hot but full throttle gets it going quickly. I always idle to shore so no quick shut down.

Checked and no Codes. Timing dead on 10degrees while in diagnostic and it sits still. Was showing code 44 last time and I changed the knock sensor so its new. I still have a stutter/ misfire at about 4500rpm but it has always been there.

ECT new, MAP sensor new, AIC new, thermostats new. New plugs, new plug wires, new distributer cap and rotor. Also new impeller. All changed in stages over winter trying to get it running and reliable.

Also new MDC.

Will pull plugs today and check, will also check oil.

I would have thought a slightly smaller prop, with a taller pitch would help reduce fuel consumption not increase it? Will do further research on this.

Mastercraft dealer refuses to service any Mastercraft boat prior to 2004 as they did not import it so I have no help from them. There are other guys I can use but they are 4 hours drive away so hesitant to do so if I can solve myself.

Thanks so far guys

Cheers
Mark
Does anyone in your area service GM cars and trucks? If so, I would contact them, especially in light of the fact that the MC dealer refuses to work on your boat.

I haven't seen anything about the IC module (Ignition Control). That's about the only thing left to check. If the base of the distributor isn't clean, the IC module can't ground as well as designed.
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