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  #11  
Old 10-30-2013, 03:28 PM
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I would think there would be better places to pull a keyed hot wire other then the fuel pump. But, it looks like you are tapped into the fuel level sender.
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2013, 03:40 PM
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Imyoumaster, The amps are wired straight to the accessory battery with their own inline fuses. I pulled all all the stock wire for the amps out and replaced it with the Knukonceptz. The accessory battery is then wired to the switch for separation purpose and all that.

Cantrepeat, I was originally testing wires behind the ignition and found that the wire I needed as the ignition turn on was purple. I was going to try run a wire all the way to the ignition, but noticed the purple wire at the fuel level sender or whatever it is, so I tested it. It was what I needed so I just tapped into it. Since its not really drawing hardly any current, I didn't think it would harm anything. It was the closest place I could find to tap into. Only about 2 feet of wire vs. 15. Its worked great for two seasons. May be better places but that works out for me.
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  #13  
Old 10-30-2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cal2vin View Post
Imyoumaster, The amps are wired straight to the accessory battery with their own inline fuses. I pulled all all the stock wire for the amps out and replaced it with the Knukonceptz. The accessory battery is then wired to the switch for separation purpose and all that.

Cantrepeat, I was originally testing wires behind the ignition and found that the wire I needed as the ignition turn on was purple. I was going to try run a wire all the way to the ignition, but noticed the purple wire at the fuel level sender or whatever it is, so I tested it. It was what I needed so I just tapped into it. Since its not really drawing hardly any current, I didn't think it would harm anything. It was the closest place I could find to tap into. Only about 2 feet of wire vs. 15. Its worked great for two seasons. May be better places but that works out for me.
Never use any wires that go to the engine, it's sensors, the ECM or the dash unless they're marked for accessory, stereo or some other accessory that won't be used. I saw the Scotch Lock on the wire and didn't comment- NEVER use those in a vehicle. I don't care if 3M says they're reliable or they have worked in the past. Adding any load to a wire that's meant to be used for a sensor, control or controller risks erroneous readings, failure of the splice or worse, sparks/fire. The combustible fumes in a bilge make this more important than you realize. How old is your boat?
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  #14  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:02 PM
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Its a 2008 bought in summer of 2010. Is there anywhere in the back area of the boat that that would be acceptaple to tap into or do I need to run all the way up to the ignition?

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  #15  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cal2vin View Post
Its a 2008 bought in summer of 2010. Is there anywhere in the back area of the boat that that would be acceptaple to tap into or do I need to run all the way up to the ignition?

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For switched voltage, I would go to the ignition wire at the switch, but use that wire to trigger a relay to switch the current for whatever I want to operate, taking the current from the distribution block. That way, the new device(s) draw no current from the ignition lead, other than the <150mA needed for the relay's coil. If you need to fish wires, go to a hardware store and look for polyethylene tubing- it comes in various diameters so you could feed the tubing to the next location and feed the wire through the tube and then pull the tubing back when you're done. It's semi-rigid, so you can push the tubing past cables, etc. There's usually a place to pass wires from the driver's footwell to the spotter's footwell, where the blower/ventilation ducting comes up from the bilge. I always put wires and cables in split loom tubing, to keep it safe and make it less visible.
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  #16  
Old 10-30-2013, 06:04 PM
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The wire on the fuel pump sender IS running to a relay that is just in the ground line of the VSR (another picture). So its only drawing <150 mA for the relay coil like you said. But I realize there is still risk of spark and ignition of fumes the way I have it wired.

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  #17  
Old 11-02-2013, 02:30 AM
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15 feet of wire or possible this.



Pulling wire doesn't seem like such a pain anymore.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cal2vin View Post
The wire on the fuel pump sender IS running to a relay that is just in the ground line of the VSR (another picture). So its only drawing <150 mA for the relay coil like you said. But I realize there is still risk of spark and ignition of fumes the way I have it wired.

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I have never seen a fuel tank sender pass the signal through a relay. That adds a connection that could become corroded, increasing in resistance and altering the reading. The fuel pump's power wire is switched by a relay, but that's because it IS a power wire and the ECM controls when it's on or off. Signal sires aren't sent through relays, as a rule, and it's very odd to see a relay on a ground wire. Those are usually fixed because lifting a ground can cause all kinds of problems.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2013, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cal2vin View Post
I used a circular saw and drilled a hole in the panel behind the cup holders and mounted a pro mariner cord holder in there.
Questions of tapping into the fuel sender circuit aside, here's hoping you used a "hole saw" and not a "circular saw" for that hole.

Big project--thanks for sharing!
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2013, 09:45 AM
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Questions of tapping into the fuel sender circuit aside, here's hoping you used a "hole saw" and not a "circular saw" for that hole.

Big project--thanks for sharing!
Maybe with a nail and a string so it cut a perfectly round hole.
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