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  #21  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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Boat: 2002 X30 LTR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
What size staples?

I have this gun, will it do the job?

i have a similar stapler. i can't imagine doing the bunks with it. i bought a decent bostich (sp?) model i used for my seat recovering and it made doing bunks a snap. of course, you will need an air compressor, but if you don't have one, its a great excuse to buy one. you'll be amazed how useful it can be. don't forget to use stainless staples no matter what stapler you use.
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  #22  
Old 10-25-2013, 12:47 AM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschildm View Post
I have helped hold too many lag bolted bunk boards on other peoples trailer for them while they loaded the boat. I love my through bolted boards.
My buddy's ramlin trailer for his nautique has lag bolts. It definitely makes it easier to install new ones at the ramp, but if you are have a couple of hours to spare, you might as well use through bolts. Lags bolts will probably hold up fine, but the marginal additional effort required to through bolt them was worth it to me.
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2013, 01:41 PM
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strad strad is offline
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Yes I have a small air compressor already, so an air powered tool will be fine.
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  #24  
Old 10-27-2013, 02:11 PM
PVBMC PVBMC is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: '07 X7
Location: Florida
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Just wondering if anyone has ever tried that plastic/composite lumber instead of wood or treated wood for bunks?
http://www.lumberock.com/2x4_rail.php
Is it not strong enough? would it work? anyone tried it?
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  #25  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:18 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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My concern would be that this composite is designed inherently for support every 12" to 16" and that it would snap without that support over its length.
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  #26  
Old 10-28-2013, 03:02 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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I have heard good things about these:
http://ultimatebunkboards.com/
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  #27  
Old 10-29-2013, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strad View Post
Yes I have a small air compressor already, so an air powered tool will be fine.
More than welcome to borrow the one I used. You will have to find the stainless staples though.
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2014, 12:24 PM
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Anyone tried this bunk carpet from Overton's? It is the heaviest that I have found at 20 oz.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...t&merchID=4005
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2014, 02:13 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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I did mine out at the lake last year. Took way too much time and effort, because it's difficult to prepare much ahead of time. My opinion:
1. Through bolting is the most solid and secure method. It's also a PITA and doubles the amount of work you have to do out at the lake.
2. Through bolted bunks are a PITA to remove once the wood gets old and starts rotting. As JRW160 noted, removing them is difficult because the head just rotates. Unfortunately, the previous bunks didn't have the heads embedded in 5200.

Next Time, I'm going to carpet all the bunks at home in the garage - it's a nice afternoon winter job. Then, I'll take the boat to the lake, dump it in, spend an hour cursing and getting the old carriage bolts out of the old bunk boards, put the new ones on and spend about 20 minutes lag bolting them in and be done. 5 or 10 years later when the lag bolts get loose, I'll just rinse and repeat. The problem with lag bolts isn't that the wood gets soft and the bunks come loose - it's that the wood gets soft and the owner chooses to live with it for too long and the bunks come loose. Make the decision to deal with it when you notice it loose, and life will be just fine.
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  #30  
Old 02-15-2014, 03:18 PM
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I used an impact wrench to get the old boards off, it doesn't matter if the heads spins a little ;-)
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