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  #21  
Old 10-25-2013, 08:45 AM
DBrown2 DBrown2 is offline
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Matt great write up... I will drain the oil tonight.
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2013, 02:44 PM
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monsterwake monsterwake is offline
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Drained my oil last night after a quick trip to the water to warm up the engine. Sucked out the transmission oil too. Put new oil in both this morning and drained the block at the cross hose between the headers and at the plugs under the knock sensors.
I used Rotella SAE 15w40 because that is what the last owner had in it. I did not realize this was a deisel blend.I will pull the old impeller and install a new one when I get some RV antifreeze.
I also fogged the intake while I was still at the boat ramp. I only sprayed in for about 20 seconds. It did not smoke while at the boat ramp but when I started it at home it did.
I pulled the ballasts. Hopefully Christmas brings some bigger ones.....
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2013, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsterwake View Post
Drained my oil last night after a quick trip to the water to warm up the engine. Sucked out the transmission oil too. Put new oil in both this morning and drained the block at the cross hose between the headers and at the plugs under the knock sensors.
I used Rotella SAE 15w40 because that is what the last owner had in it. I did not realize this was a deisel blend.I will pull the old impeller and install a new one when I get some RV antifreeze.
I also fogged the intake while I was still at the boat ramp. I only sprayed in for about 20 seconds. It did not smoke while at the boat ramp but when I started it at home it did.
I pulled the ballasts. Hopefully Christmas brings some bigger ones.....
Put the AF in with the old impeller and save the new for spring. That way you don't have your impeller sitting with a couple of the veins scrunch up.

You should FOG that motor through the spark plug holes and not the intake.
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2013, 06:10 PM
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93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Put the AF in with the old impeller and save the new for spring. That way you don't have your impeller sitting with a couple of the veins scrunch up.

You should FOG that motor through the spark plug holes and not the intake.
His era may not have the CaTs? So the intake fogging may not have cause any issues ..... 2006= no cats?

....... But point taken, fog the MCX engines through the spark plug holes .......

Mine is put Away for the season as of today .... Last day on the water was last week ..... 40 degrees and windy ... No thank you!
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  #25  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:45 PM
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dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
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Mattscraft, that is some good info. Question, for you or anyone else who has been doing this for a while:

I drained the block via petcock and knock sensor, and disconnected the hose between the manifolds. There was a LOT of water coming from the petcock/knock sensor drains, and a little more from the manifold hose. Am I missing anything as far as freezing is concerned? That was just a run-through. I plan to run it for a while again and re-drain, then run some antifreeze through and re-drain again. Do I need to drain anything for the transmission? Anything to disconnect for the thermostat? I'm not even sure where the thermostat is.

I've read a few posts that said in order for the antifreeze to get everywhere it needs to, the t-stat should be open, so I'm assuming that there's water somewhere in that area that needs to be drained as well. I suppose I could just start disconnecting hoses, but I don't want to miss anything.

Thanks in advance!
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  #26  
Old 11-05-2013, 07:01 AM
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Yes, the thermostat must be open. But that is pretty easy to do.

All you have to do is run the motor, using a waters source, up to operating temperature and let it run for 10 minutes or so. Then just put your 6 gallons of anti freeze in a bucket and suck it up through the raw water intake. Do not allow the engine to cool. Some people drain the block and manifolds first but by doing so you remove the hot water from the thermostat and if you take too long it will close.

I've had zero issues getting AF into the motor without draining the water.
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  #27  
Old 11-05-2013, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsone79 View Post
Mattscraft, that is some good info. Question, for you or anyone else who has been doing this for a while:

I drained the block via petcock and knock sensor, and disconnected the hose between the manifolds. There was a LOT of water coming from the petcock/knock sensor drains, and a little more from the manifold hose. Am I missing anything as far as freezing is concerned? That was just a run-through. I plan to run it for a while again and re-drain, then run some antifreeze through and re-drain again. Do I need to drain anything for the transmission? Anything to disconnect for the thermostat? I'm not even sure where the thermostat is.

I've read a few posts that said in order for the antifreeze to get everywhere it needs to, the t-stat should be open, so I'm assuming that there's water somewhere in that area that needs to be drained as well. I suppose I could just start disconnecting hoses, but I don't want to miss anything.

Thanks in advance!
So here is my school of thought - Basically draining or "Dry Blocking" is what the Indmar manual explains on how to winterize. If you only drain, you need to remove and empty 2 other hoses. They are both kinda "J" shaped (They will hold water). See picture circled in red. The 3rd circle shows the connection to clean the trans cooler, once you remove the hose from here, you need to stick your finger or a small "plastic" screw driver to clean out the debris against the screen.

If you have a heater, this always needs to be completed as a separate task as the anti-freeze will never get this far with 5 gallons run through the system.

If you are going to pickle, I am a firm believer that you must drain prior to running on anti-freeze, and yes you have to do this pretty quick or the thermostat will close. Without draining you have a portion of diluted anti-freeze. How much, I have no clue, but 5 gallons runs through pretty darn quick. My guess is you could start with a higher freeze value and be safe When using my method you are triple safe, and every time I post anti-freeze drain, I have antifreeze draining out of the block, so pre-draining in short order, the thermostat has not closed.

Lastly is your winter temps, keep in mind the freeze rating is a burst rating, -25 is the burst rating, read the label, I believe it is a much higher temp to become a sludge, like 0 and so on.
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2013, 03:42 PM
03x30 03x30 is offline
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I just picked up a 2003 x-30 and the winterization is nearly identical to my old 01 Malibu SunsetterLXi (+ the v-drive). However, this boat has the perko on the back w/ the flush pro. Do I just turn off the valve at the intake and connect a hose? Is there anything I need to do to the flushpro? Seems like my old one had a black plastic piece that needed to be installed or something. I don't have the boat in front of me, so planning ahead for Sunday.
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  #29  
Old 11-08-2013, 09:14 PM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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If it's the standard Perko, yes. Valve handle will always point in the direction of flow. I always blow out the raw water intake line when I'm done because there is a low spot on mine between the Perko and the pump where water can stay.
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  #30  
Old 11-11-2013, 04:02 PM
03x30 03x30 is offline
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I winterized my 03 X-30 this weekend and everything went fine. After draining everything, I still ran RV antifreeze back in to be safe but had a few questions.

1 - My old Malibu had a garden hose like connection that ran between the manifolds (just like in the video), but I didn't find it on my MCX. How do you drain the mainfolds? I pulled the lower connection that ties back into the thermostat housing (kind of a PITA).
2 - Is there anything to do on the ZF Hurth? The video shows cooling hoses but mine isn't the same (trans cooler w/ oil lines).
3 - Do you pull that plug on the muffler and drain it? Didn't see that referenced.

Also does anyone have a recommended pump for the RV antifreeze? My little transfer pump barely has enough umph! to open the perko up!
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