Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Trailers

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:28 PM
TN Skier TN Skier is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1992 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Southeast - Nashville, TN area
Posts: 147
Prop Guard vs. Driveway (Prostar 190)

Greetings to all -

It seems that no matter how much drop I put at the trailer hitch, I just cant get the boat in/out of the drive without dinging the drivewy with the prop guard on the trailer ('92 Prostar 190 pulled with '04 Nissan Tiatn 4x4).

I have gone so far as to try using a 10" drop with layered (6" worth) wooden 2x12 ramps (5' in length) to try to bridge the gap. Once the boat is in/out of the leading edge of the drive, then I switch it back to a "normal" drop hitch; this sorta takes some fun out of the day.

My question is this... what are your thoughts on using lift blocks at the axle maybe somewhere between 2-4 inches to raise the trailer frame up and get the prop guard up higher off the deck?

It seems like an easy fix to me; however I don't want to alter the towability. In my simple mind I don't see that it would; generally the most simplest of my solutions turn into my most difficult of problems.

Thanks in advance for the ideas and advice...

Last edited by TN Skier; 10-12-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:50 PM
madcityskier's Avatar
madcityskier madcityskier is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 85 Stars&Stripes, safe-t-top, trick realease, boom, flitepipe pylon
Location: madison, wi
Posts: 1,767
It's been done and there are pictures in a few previous threads. The most common answer is drag wheels, or micro rollers (the name depends on who you ask). I'm contemplating adding them to my 85 trailer too.
__________________
I spent most of my money on booze, broads and boats. The rest I wasted. - Elmore Leonard
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:59 PM
TN Skier TN Skier is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1992 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Southeast - Nashville, TN area
Posts: 147
Is there a recommended size of drag wheels?

I forgot to mention that with the 10" drop at the hitch; the spare tire bottoms out on the drive...

...it has turned into quite the engineering project...

There are many contributing variables to the problem...the initial approach angle of the driveway entrance...the grade and crown of the roadway...the height of the spare clearance...the height of the prop guard...

I feel like there may be a multi-approach to the solution in the near future...just looking for the correct one...

There will hopefully be a "new to me" trailer in the future and the the solution will have to be replicated...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-12-2013, 02:31 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by TN Skier View Post
Is there a recommended size of drag wheels?

I forgot to mention that with the 10" drop at the hitch; the spare tire bottoms out on the drive...

...it has turned into quite the engineering project...

There are many contributing variables to the problem...the initial approach angle of the driveway entrance...the grade and crown of the roadway...the height of the spare clearance...the height of the prop guard...

I feel like there may be a multi-approach to the solution in the near future...just looking for the correct one...

There will hopefully be a "new to me" trailer in the future and the the solution will have to be replicated...
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...1&postcount=15

I'll say this.... regardless of what drags, be it a roller or a bar, there is still the same amount of force transferred to the component that is dragging the ground, which also changes the dynamics of the hitch point/trailer. The rollers become subject to exerted force or the existing bar (without rollers) experiences the same force. I think rollers are justified in not deteriorating the bar by dragging it across a surface. Your access point approach to your driveway will still be the same. I'd raise the trailer frame up from the axle as you inquired, or add a leaf-spring lift kit. I would not academically recommend modifying any trailer without proper design configuration analysis.

As a general observation and opinion, I think these low-profile (low center of gravity) trailers are much less practical than other trailers I have seen under a Nautique.

For your immediate need, I'd add a spacer (do it properly) or a leaf and allow for more space there and possibly additional height from a larger wheel diameter (the theory of a lift kit on a jeep for off-road ground clearance).

Also look here ==> https://caltrailerworks.com/online/p...cat=161&page=1 for an idea of what is available....
.

Last edited by Cloaked; 10-12-2013 at 02:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-12-2013, 02:36 PM
tph's Avatar
tph tph is online now
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: '83 Metalflake Blue on Grey S&S Powerslot, 351W
Posts: 1,137
adjustable ball height

Not sure if this would help, but you can easily change the height on the fly with a cordless drill with a 3/8" drive adapter. I use this all the time to help at the launch ramp.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by tph; 10-12-2013 at 10:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:37 PM
OHIOPRO205's Avatar
OHIOPRO205 OHIOPRO205 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Boat: 1994 PROSTAR 205
Location: Amanda, Ohio
Posts: 253
I was having trouble with mine dragging so I put a 2" lift on my trailer. I used 2" square tubing and bought longer U bolts. I still have to put 2x10 ramps down but that is it. Makes things a lot easier, and now I only need a 4" drop on my truck.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-18-2013, 05:47 PM
Kyle's Avatar
Kyle Kyle is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Boat: 93 Prostar 190
Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS
Posts: 3,247
A little late to post but wanted to give what I did.


I took the boat and trailer to a spring shop here locally. I had custom leaf springs made. They removed my old springs and could tell load and height from them. They added a few leafs and made it stronger than a factory spring. Total lift was like 2-3"

It ran me $200 and they removed old, made the new springs, and installed for that price.
__________________
Rollin' Gangsta Style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:11 PM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 25,334
Get some poly drag wheels and skip the lifting blocks. I did 2" lifting blocks on my old MC trailer. It worked fine, towed fine, loaded and unloaded fine, but it still wasn't enough to get the prop guard to clear the driveway. It was expensive to have done. It required an alignment (pins were welded in place). The amount of lift needed at the axle to get the prop guard up is just too much if your driveway slope was like mine. With poly drag wheels, you can bring it down nice and slow and your driveway won't be chewed up like it will with steel wheels. If they wear out (mine are over 6 years old), you can replace the wheel for a relatively cheap sum.

I literally tried everything with my old trailer. Boards, 8" drop hitch, 2" lift blocks, stainless drag wheels, etc. When I got my new to me boat 6 years ago, I ordered the poly wheel kit from Dorsey, had it installed, and have been happy as can be with the results. They aren't as pretty as my old stainless rollers, but they are much better on the driveway.

The answer is: You can lift it, but unless you only are dealing with a slight incline, it is unlikely to make much of a difference.

My old trailer.


__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

Last edited by east tx skier; 10-18-2013 at 10:25 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-19-2013, 12:07 AM
JMLVMI's Avatar
JMLVMI JMLVMI is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2013
Boat: 2000 Prostar 195 - 350 TBI Predator, 1:1, 13x11.5 OJ 3-Blade
Location: RDU, NC
Posts: 883
I like these pictures, but let's get some shots of the driveway too!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-19-2013, 11:33 AM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 25,334
Here you go.





__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:13 PM.