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  #41  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsloop View Post
You will be fine, it did not run long enough to significantly build up contaminates.
The old 3k/3mo rule is out the window for anyone with their head not stuck in an oil can that needs a church key to open.

IF it were me and doing an oil change myself, I would probably do it for the $20 in oil.
Probably be lazy and not change filter as that other .5 qt will not be significant and the filter did not have anywhere close to enough hours on it.
If I was paying dealer price for it, I would probably skip or if I had wasted $$ on synthetic I would not.
??? I wish the oil I used only cost $20.
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  #42  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain planet View Post
??? I wish the oil I used only cost $20.
Shell Rotella and a Fram Filter @ wally world - under $20...
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  #43  
Old 10-09-2013, 12:38 PM
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Shell Rotella and a Fram Filter @ wally world - under $20...
Cheaper than Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 Racing.
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  #44  
Old 10-09-2013, 12:53 PM
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  #45  
Old 10-09-2013, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Cheaper than Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 Racing.
got that right. even moving up to a NAPA 41060 Platinum Oil Filter - - Just for my MCOCD sake..
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  #46  
Old 10-10-2013, 04:59 PM
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Wow, really I was not trying to start an oil thread however like any question, there is an answer and a REASON therefore I can see where this would lead to an oil debate regardless of my prodding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captain planet View Post
??? I wish the oil I used only cost $20.
Just because you pay more does not mean it protects any better under average conditions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Shell Rotella and a Fram Filter @ wally world - under $20...
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Cheaper than Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 Racing.
Pretty close, Castrol 15w-40 and a Wix.
Buy the oil and filter on sale and $20 is doable. $35 if you are spontaneous.

In older, non-catalytic motors especially (zinc is shortens Cat life), the added zinc and phosphorous are advantageous for protecting drivetrain components in motors running higher spring pressure (compression) and extended high rpm use.
Why do we care about Zinc? http://classiccars.about.com/od/main...l-Additive.htm

Another good write up on ZDDP - http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._got_zinc.aspx

This is why Diesel motor oils are a decent non-specific choice and cost effective. Tection Extra 15w-40 I am running tested at 1059 zinc and 823 phos AFTER 18,500miles in my Dmax.
This should be sufficient for my non-modified marine motor and 9 years with 700 hrs since I purchased it used is enough real world proof for me.

Educated discussion on engine needs from a Chevelle PERFORMANCE motor thread, keep in mind these are high hp motors not our very mild (in comparison) marine engines.-
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=173215
These are some excerpts from Scott Wheaton on Team Chevelle on Pages 14 and 15. The link for the entire post is below.

"The Rotella's zddp is too low at approx 1050-1100ppm vs Chevron Delo at 1300 ppm on a recommended minimum of 1200-1400 ppm zddp for flat tappet cams.
I like to see at least 1300-1400ppm zddp for even mild performance cams.

Valvoline Premium Blue Heavy Duty Diesel Oil has 1100 PPM of ZDDP. The Synthetic Blend version also has 1100 PPM of ZDDP.
The Tech at Valvoline recommended Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil which has 1400 PPM ZDDP.
As for Valvoline Premium Blue Heavy Duty Diesel Oil 15W-40 has 1100 PPM of ZDDP. The Synthetic Blend version also has 1100 PPM of ZDDP.
The Tech at Valvoline recommended Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil which has 1400 PPM ZDDP.
You could also buy Spectro's new motor guard series oil (same as summits new hi performance oil) for flat tappet cams with 1,800ppm zddp or run valvolines VR1- race oil with 1400ppm zddp.

Since there are now better alternatives out there zddp wise today I would only run the Chevron Delo with stock to very mild aftermarket RV type performance cams.
That's becuase the Delo oil has just enough zddp to do the job with stock to very mild perf cams but now Spectro/Summit or Valvoline VR1 oil can both be run with just about any level flat tappet performance cam without worrying if there's enough zddp to properly cover the performance level of flat tappet cam being run."

Quote from another discussion - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...35&type=thread
"If you only change once a year, price isn't a consideration. I would SUGGEST that you CONSIDER either Mobil 1 V twin, 20W-50 motorcycle oil or Amsoil 20W-50 ARO. The Mobil 1 has a ZDDP level of 1600 and is a full PAO synthetic.
The Amsoil has about 1300 phosphorus and 1400 Zinc and is also a PAO synthetic.
Amsoil also makes an excellent 20W-50 motorcycle oil that has the elevated phosphorus and zinc but also has a HTHS of 5.0, excellent anti foam, detergent, dispersant, anti corrosion, and more. I suggest you look at the Amsoil and Mobil 1 product data sheets.
If limited to the two you mentioned, the VR1 20W-50 has a better detergent package and much higher ZDDP. The Synpower 20W-50 has a less detergent package and something like an 840/760 zinc/phosphorus package."


Running high levels than necessary of ZDDP is also not advisable as zinc will tend to increase contaminates under higher stress conditions.
Using a general synthetic and changing at 50 hrs is a waste of the longevity properties of an oil and does nothing for higher ZDDP levels.

As for the 3k mile guys, I have run Used Oil Analysis on our Avalon with Castrol 10-30 to 15k miles over 8 months with no compromise of oil properties. The past couple years, I switched to Castrol full syn 5-30 and go once a year, 25k miles with a premium filter with no significant ill effects noted on my UOA.
I run Amsoil 5-40 in my Dmax with 3yr, 40k mile changes using by-pass filtration. (this is barely cost effective vs standard mfg 10-12k oil changes given my current lower annual mileage) My original oil change on standard Castrol Tection 15-40 went 18,500mi w by-pass and had fine UOA measurements.

My point is, I am not a synthetic or specialized hater but the extra cost is a waste if not used intelligently. Not to mention standard automotive synthetic will have ZDDP values of 800/650 that are below the 1000-1200 generally recommended for standard, older engine operation.
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