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  #11  
Old 09-17-2013, 11:31 PM
Baszy Baszy is offline
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Great info. thank you. I am about to winterize my 08' mcx with heater. Anybody have any different procedures for the antifreeze to the heater? My understanding is to warm engine with water,drain, run engine with antifreeze and turn on heater to draw antifreeze to the heater core. Right??
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:19 PM
Timr245 Timr245 is offline
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Just had the same question today. Called a MC dealer & they just told me to unhook the hoses at the engine & blow em out with air. Couldnt get the hose off the front of the engine so I just blew through the 1 that came off & got alot of water out off the knock sensor holes & impeller housing. Not sure if this is right but it's what they told me.
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2013, 10:11 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Definitely drain the block and manifolds before adding antifreeze. No dillution problems and you will use less antifreeze.
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2013, 03:46 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
Definitely drain the block and manifolds before adding antifreeze. No dillution problems and you will use less antifreeze.
My only issue with draining the block and manifolds is that if you take the hot water way from the thermostat long enough for it close you wont get anti freeze through out the motor.

I did a test this time, when I winterized.

I ran the motor to temp and let it run for 15 minutes at temp. Then drained the oil and changed the filter. The oil was very warm so I knew the motor was good and warm. After changing the oil I ran the motor back up to temp and let it run for 15 minutes once it reached temp. I then ran 6 gallons of anti freeze in through the water pick up. Once done I pulled the side plug to check for anti freeze and it was full of anti freeze and no water.

I think as long as you full heat the motor and do not let the thermostat cool down you are just fine not draining the block and if you do drain the block and wait add anti freeze the thermostat is more likely to close. Likewise, if done correctly I do not believe there is any reason to pull the thermostat.
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2013, 04:30 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baszy View Post
Great info. thank you. I am about to winterize my 08' mcx with heater. Anybody have any different procedures for the antifreeze to the heater? My understanding is to warm engine with water,drain, run engine with antifreeze and turn on heater to draw antifreeze to the heater core. Right??
If you do that before draining all the water, the antifreeze you put in there will be diluted. It's an OK thing to do if you drain the block of your dilute antifreeze solution. The comment above about the thermostat not being open is also very true. If you're going to rely just on an engine full of antifreeze, you're probably better off pumping it in there rather than relying on the engine's natural circulation, which will be dependent on the thermostat.

If you're not certain of the procedure, I'd be inclined to recommend that you just pump antifreeze through the heater and just drain the block and manifolds as MasterCraft explains in the manual.

You could kill two birds with one stone by pumping antifreeze through your heater core from the heater supply line (splice into the 5/8 hose, or install a flushing T). In addition to filling the heater that should return antifreeze to the upper part of the engine too.

Not sure what you mean about turning on the heater. Unless you have the return valve closed, water is always circulating through the heater. "Turning it on" only turns on the fan.

I did the antifreeze through the engine thing for a couple of years, putting the raw water intake line into a five gallon bucket while running the engine. It was the hassle of doing that, as well as the rest of the stuff, that made me decide that paying the dealer to do it just worked a lot better for me. He "pickles" the boat too, in -100 propylene glycol throughout the engine and heater. I don't know his technique exactly, but it's worked well for me. Never had any issues the the last 5 or 6 years, and as a bonus, I rarely need to change the RW impeller. Come the spring, there are no hoses to reconnect...just drop the boat the water and start her up. Dealer's been doing this to literally a thousand boats a year for well over a decade and proven it to be an effective technique.
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Last edited by bigmac; 10-14-2013 at 04:42 PM.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2013, 08:25 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Ah, I always forget about that. Nonissue on my PCM motor. You can pour af in cold. Bypass on the t-stat. Takes just about 3 gallons.
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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