Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Trailers

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-10-2013, 11:55 PM
SteveM SteveM is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 93 Prostar 190
Location: virginia
Posts: 10
Help putting trailer back in service

I've been very fortunate to keep my boat ('93 PS190) on a lift all summer and only had to trailer it twice / year <50 feet from the ramp to the garage, where it sleeps all winter, then back in the spring. During the summer the trailer (original single axle) is stored outside in a shady spot in the woods. The trailer gets cleaned well, including pressure washing the bunks, annually before putting the boat on it for winder storage.

My situation has recently changed and I will now be trailering the boat. While the trailer is in good shape, it hasn't been on the road for over 10 years. What things should I inspect and/or do to ensure trouble free trips (60 miles one way)?

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-11-2013, 12:01 AM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,197
First thing you need is new tires.
Next is to inspect bearings. They may be OK, but remove them, degrease and look for rust.
Light sockets may be corroded. Remove lenses and inspect.
__________________
Peter

SPECIAL PACKAGE PRICING
4 ST205/75R14 Kenda KR03 radials
4 wheels of your choice
Mount, balance & free shipping
$529




CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts

PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
*** FREE DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS ***[/center]

Coming soon.......TrailerEssentials.com
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-11-2013, 10:02 PM
SteveM SteveM is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 93 Prostar 190
Location: virginia
Posts: 10
Thanks for the reply Peter. Even though the tires look new I was concerned about the age. There are no cracks or other signs of dry rot but I don't want to take any chances. I'll PM you wrt tires.

Should I also check brakes? How about the bunks? The carpet is in good shape, but I don't know about the structural integrity of the wood. Same question for the trailer frame. It's never seen any salt and other than a few paint chips that have surface rust looks pretty good. I've read that they rust from the inside out though.

I'll definitely check the bearings and lights. I'd be surprised if the lights all worked since they haven't been used in so long. The good news is I do have a little time.

Thanks again.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-11-2013, 11:37 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,197
Definitely have a look at the brakes. I have no experience with trailer brakes so someone else will need to chime in on what needs to be done.

I would grab a hammer and give any of the rusted spots a whack to check for any serious rust hiding under the surface. You will hear a soft thud instead of a solid metal sound if there is any bad spots. You can do the same thing for the bunks. Having the boat off the trailer is best to do this work effectively.

PM sent back with more tire info.
__________________
Peter

SPECIAL PACKAGE PRICING
4 ST205/75R14 Kenda KR03 radials
4 wheels of your choice
Mount, balance & free shipping
$529




CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts

PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
*** FREE DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS ***[/center]

Coming soon.......TrailerEssentials.com
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-12-2013, 09:26 AM
bturner2's Avatar
bturner2 bturner2 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 2,372
On the brakes I'd start with the condition of the brake fluid. If the fluid is bad (most times water has gotten into the master cylinder) then you should expect that everything in line going back to the brake shoe servos is going to be suspect. If this is the case you can either rebuild the servos or replace them then flush the brake system with new brake fluid. For the price of new I always replace the servos.

If there is no brake fluid in the master cylinder the seals on the servos have probably rotted away and the fluid has been pushed out into the drums at some point. I see this on a lot of older boat/trailers that I've looked at for friends and use it to negotiate a better price.

Past that the shoes themselves should still look like new. You need to assess condition (look for rust and condition of drums which in your case would be rust would probably be the problem) and determine what corrective actions you'll need to do. If you have light rust you can typically get away with a scuff pad or sand paper, if you have excessive rust on the drums try getting them turned. The backing plates themselves should be able to be clean up. If the springs are rusty they'll need to either be cleaned up or replaced. Again these parts are typically cheap and I usually just replace them.

Depending on how OCD you are, how long you intend to keep the boat, how much trailering you plan to do and of course how much you want to spend you may want to consider replacing the entire backing plate assemblies or (my preference if cost is not a factor) upgrading to disc brakes.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:12 AM.