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Old 08-25-2013, 09:34 AM
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mpabreo mpabreo is offline
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2014 Xstar - Help spec'ing audio system

She will be here next weekend and I've been trying to come up with a few ideas for the sub system on the new boat. Some background...

In my previous x45 I had 2 JL W6v2 subs powered by a JL slash 1000/1 in a ported box behind the observer seat. The bass was great, and powered through seat well, and was pretty insane when I cracked the seat to let more air out. I used the two stock batteries, and a kinetic 800 power cell in line just before the slash amp and never had any power issues, even when playing for hours with the engine off.

The new boat will come with three JL HD 600/4 amps to power the 6 cockpit speakers, and 4 tower speakers (all JL M770s) with two channels off one of those amps to power the stock sub. I'm leaning toward two JL w6v3 subs again powered by an HD 1200/1 amp, but unsure of the box design, location, etc.

Questions:

- What is the optimum power setup for these 4 HD amps? similar to what I did in the X45 or should I be adding more batteries in addition to the power cell on the sub amp?

- Location for subs? perhaps one under the glovebox, one under the driver dash? both in the observer compartment as I did before?

- I will have sacs plumbed in the coffin and ice chest location so that limits the space options. Perhaps putting one of the subs in the factory sub location (with box) is an option.

- Best signal to use from an android phone? Boat will have the Fusion bluetooth option but bluetooth quality is questionable. Perhaps the Fusion uni-dock is an option, but not sure if the xstar has capability to control the fusion head unit from the helm.

Any suggestions, or advice from the gurus?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:03 PM
Tommy1005 Tommy1005 is offline
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Xstar can control fusion from the driver seat. I personally would put a single sub in a box to replace the stock sub. Having it radiate into an open area instead of under a seat makes a huge difference in musical output.

I'm also not a fan of having subs in different sides of the boat and putting a second sub under the observer seat essentially becomes a boat shaker and doesn't add any musicality to the system.

Since it sounds like there's not any budget concerns I'd go with a 10W7 powered by a HD750/1. If you wanted some extra output you could put it in a ported box built to JL specs, but I'd just put it in a sealed box.
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:27 PM
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I actually have this an an option, but it will kill the cooler location. Not sure how I feel about that.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:31 PM
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mpabreo mpabreo is offline
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Any other ideas sub locations? cooler location wont work, w6 is too deep and won't fit. port coffin is no option either as there lies a hard piped surf sac. Throw any ideas out guys, no matter how wild.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:52 PM
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take out existing sub and put the sub behind it. use the hole as a port!
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:42 AM
ol1970 ol1970 is offline
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Ok, so this is only to tell you what I'm doing in my '14, but first I have a question:

Are you sure the boat came with three 600/4 amps? I asked the dealer 6 times and they told me it comes with two?

Anyway, I'm putting a 13w7 in a ported box under the observers seat powered by a HD1200/1 with its own separate level. I get the whole "it's not as good as if it were directly radiating into the cabin" talk...and that is correct, but unless you are cool with cutting up your boat, (which I am not) there really isn't a better option.

Now for why i believe my sub placement will kick *** in the grand scheme of the system what i I am doing to the rest of the boat is as follows:

-bridging the two 600/4 amps that come with the boat to deliver 200W to each of the in boat speakers this will give a ton more mid-bass in the cabin.
-powering the towers separately with a HD750/1
-adding additional amp for the 10" free air that comes with the boat, I forgot what I got there but I believe I will be giving it 200-300W.
-batteries, ok maybe this is overkill but I'm going with a completely separate bank hooked only to the sound system of two Lifeline 8D's that will give me about 520aH. More than enough for running 6-8 hours continuous at sand bar/party cove at concert levels without clipping. (Not that I would ever do such a thing...but the capability is there, who wants the party to end at the most in opportune time?)

So when I'm rafter off, yes I two will pop the observer seat to let some more sound out if it calls for it...I don't mind that. Boat will sound awesome without doing that and redonkulous when I do. My '07 had similar set up, but only about 1700 rms and only about 150aH of batteries, this will have over double the rms and triple the batteries. Only bummer is I will have to shore charge the bank, but not a big deal since it sits on a lift each night with power at the dock.

Not sure if this helps, but good luck & let us know what you decide to do to yours!

Happy New Year!
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:01 AM
ol1970 ol1970 is offline
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Btw, I'm taking the factory tour next Friday to watch my new rig go though its last day of build, I'm super excited! I actually have talked to the factory guys about this specific question & was going to chat with them there about a "really big" stereo option would look like from the factory. Three years ago when I spec'd out my new Bennington pontoon, they didn't have anything but a crappy Kicker option, I expressed my opinion to the factory guys that they have a great boat but poor choice in speaker components for that level of boat...now not that I made a difference, but somebody listened and you can get a very nice Wetsounds system in Bennington boats now...too late for me though, I upgraded to all JL.
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:18 AM
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mpabreo mpabreo is offline
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The boat comes with 2 M series amps (M600/6). I had my dealer replace them with 3 MHD 600/4 amps. Let me tell you the sound from the JL 7.7's was night and day. The stock amps severely under power the cabin and tower speakers, and are just not the quality level of the HD amps. But you have to be careful with where you set the gains cause the HD amps are very powerful and can toast the 7.7 coaxials. I have mine set at ~40%.

If you are going with the HD amp for the tower, you should use the HD 600/4, that 750/1 is overkill for JL tower speakers (assuming you'll have 4 tower speakers) and more designed for a sub (although it is full range).

I'm disconnecting the stock sub, as it will not add anything to what I'm doing in the way of subs. I tried what you are suggesting on my last boat, but let's face it, those subs are junk when comparing to the W6/W7.

Right now I'm leaning toward the two W6s under the observer seat in a custom ported box, possibly with the port matching up to a vent that I will cut in the fiberglass wall beneath the observers seat. The reason why I wanted to get away from the whole under the seat thing is that with the highly powered 10 coax speakers, the bass may not be enough. Those things are straight screaming with the HD amps.

Also, I did what you are planning with the W7 in my previous X45. I ended up trading the 1 W7 out for 2 W6's as the sound was greater from the added surface area of two subs rather than one. Granted, my w7 was sealed, vs ported 2 w6s. Just food for thought.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:41 AM
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mpabreo mpabreo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol1970 View Post
Btw, I'm taking the factory tour next Friday to watch my new rig go though its last day of build, I'm super excited! I actually have talked to the factory guys about this specific question & was going to chat with them there about a "really big" stereo option would look like from the factory. Three years ago when I spec'd out my new Bennington pontoon, they didn't have anything but a crappy Kicker option, I expressed my opinion to the factory guys that they have a great boat but poor choice in speaker components for that level of boat...now not that I made a difference, but somebody listened and you can get a very nice Wetsounds system in Bennington boats now...too late for me though, I upgraded to all JL.
Don't mean to rain on your parade, but I doubt MC will offer to do anything out of the normal options on stereos. I asked that question in 09 when spec'g my X45 and they told me they don't have the expertise to customize a stereo, and warranty it, along with the fact that it would slow down production to do something out of the ordinary. However, you may have success as you did with Bennington on future purchases.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:49 AM
ol1970 ol1970 is offline
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It's all about surface area...I assume the W6's are 10" each?. I debated about what to power the towers with, but David (formerly from Earmark) assured me that would be a great option. As far as the bass goes, I figure I will have to play around a bit, but this should be a good start. I had the 13W7 powered by a750/1 before and it was amazing...the 1200/1 should allow it to reach its full potential. I'm blessed that budget for fun stuff like this isn't a major issue so if I have to upgrade later that is what I'll do, i just want to get it right. I may end up pulling the 13 and put it in the new tow rig, then cutting up the hull to open to the cabin and do a double 10 or 12W7 deadpan box in the coffin or where the cooler is.

I totally agree that MC under powers there stuff badly from the factory. I went over my proposed system with a JL tech and he concurred I should be happy, his only advice was have a whole lot of aH's on tap.
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