#51
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Update
Well the project is complete. Overall it was not a terribly difficult process.
Removing the existing Reliable actuator involved disconnecting brake line, reverse shut out wire and the ground wire. Once those were disconnected, taking the actuator off was easy---one bolt. We had a friend who owns a body shop paint match the new UFP actuator sleeve. We reconnected the brake line, reverse shut out wire and ground. We added brake fluid and then bleed the brakes. Bleeding was probably the toughest--we couldn't get a good seal using the vacuum system so we had to do it the old fashion way. Please note, the new UFP actuator is longer than the existing Reliable. Safety chains etc., are plenty long for the new set up. I do like the attachment mechanism better than the Reliable option. |
#52
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I have taken the following steps: I installed the actuator on the trailer Attached the blue reverse lock out wire. Attached the white ground wire to the solenoid I filled the brake fluid reservoir We bled the brakes one wheel at a time front to back while apply pressure to the actuator I think I am done? However, you mention the following, "If you have the UFP A60 or any UFP master cylinder it also has to be bled - " How do you bleed the master cylinder? thanks! |
#53
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If you're your bled thru all lines... you are good... some times the master cylinder needs to be primed - was having trouble and called UFP - so I I had to pour brake fluid into master cylinder before I installed it..(had to take it out) so make sure there was no air in master cylinder - it was weird.
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#54
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I have a sneaking suspicion there maybe air remaining in the line for two (not so obvious) reasons: 1) it seem like I would really be able to feel the trailer braking and not producing incremental force against the truck (i think I could feel that in the past)---I do not now and 2) After several rounds of bleeding and doing one last test--we would get a blast of air. We would then bleed each valve 2 - 3x, ensuring a steady stream of fluid only to come across another air bubble. |
#55
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Use a ratcheting belt - much easier - wrap the belt around bow support and actuator...wratchet to complete inserted position - bleed... release belt... add fluid if needed repeat... no straining - no pain - takes half the time.
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#56
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On it. |
#57
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awesome to share solutions... love this forum.. ![]()
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#58
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We couldn't get the pressurized brake bleeder to work. There isn't enough room on the nipple for the hose line to connect and get box wrench around to open and close the valve. I can easily see where we went wrong... we didn't have the cold ones, encouraging the break in action to consider simpler alternatives. I agree, love this forum too. Great to share passion for the sport, boat and good old fashion ingenuity. |
#59
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Here is a link to the manual > http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs...aintenance.pdf I had my 11 year old daughter sitting on a stool at the actuator with the screwdriver prying for me. I explained the communication we needed between us (she tells me when she's holding; I tell her when the bleeder is closed etc.) and we had all 4 wheels bled in 15 minutes. We would have had it done sooner if the master cylinder held more than like 1/3 cup of fluid. ![]() I did bleed mine a 2nd time a few days later as it just didn't feel right. I found I still had air in the left side. The 2nd time I had my wife help me. My daughter had the hang of it quicker but I think at 11... you learn quicker. ![]() Also, (I saw it mentioned in an earlier post) step 1 and 2 on page 24 talks about bleeding the master cylinder. ![]()
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Jeff |
#60
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