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  #11  
Old 08-17-2013, 12:41 AM
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From your pictures it looks like you need to repair a corner and the ridge of a chine. You purchased the non-paste version of the gelcoat.

Given the size you need to fix that may have been the correct thing to do. However, to build up the ridge is going to take some work. Spectrum has some instructions at http://www.spectrumcolor.com/TechnicalInfo.aspx. The document "Chips, Gouges mold marks" at this link talks about a few methods. Method 2 talks about using Cabosil to make a paste. I only have experience using that stuff to thicken epoxy and I can say it does a good job of making a paste in that case. I like the idea of this because it is going to give you a good base color that spray over with a final coats of gel should produce good results.

If you have some experience spray painting that will be a help. But also understand working with and spraying Gel is different. Spraying Gel takes a bit of getting use to. Since you got a quart you have some to practice with.

You may want to read http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/re-gelcoating.htm.

Given the fact that it is the bottom of the boat and that it is not too old (2010), if you took good care of the gel, you should be able to get a really good match.

You may already know this: your pictures show cracks beyond the area that was gouged. Your prep work (grinding out with a dremel) needs to extend into that area as well.
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2013, 12:49 AM
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Since mneff1 got the non-paste version of the Gel, he needs to worry surfacing agents correct (like Patch Aid and Wax)? I'm not that familiar with Spectrum's products.
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2013, 01:03 PM
mneff1 mneff1 is offline
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All Done!

Check out the pics. I used a dremmel to get a nice base to work on and to smooth out the jagged edges. That was scary. Then I applied coats of gelcoat (1 table spoon and 7 drops catalyst). I sanded in between each coat. It took 5 coats to build up with the last coat I added 7 drops of the Spectrum Surface seal. For the corner, I cut a V in a block of wood that matched the angle. Then I used sandpaper in the block to round the corner nicely. Overall I'm very excited with the result. I used some compound and then a couple coats of wax. The color match is perfect.

Thanks for all the input. I think the next time I might try the trick with the tape. I might be able to do it with less coats. I had trouble with the sanding. I tried to start with 320 but the sand would just get into the gel. If I started with 220, it worked perfectly. I started with 220, 320, 400, 600, compound, wax. I forgot to wet sand the last coat but it didn't seem to matter.

Mike
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2013, 02:59 PM
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Very nice work.
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2013, 03:01 PM
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what damage was repaired ...
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  #16  
Old 08-26-2013, 03:15 PM
Redstorm Redstorm is offline
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Wow...good job!
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2013, 03:32 PM
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Very impressive result, thanks for sharing the process with the rest of us. Makes it easier to attack these kind of jobs when I see these type of results.
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2013, 05:15 PM
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Very nice job.
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2013, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRW160 View Post
Dremel it out then clean it with acetone before patching the gel. I had a couple of gelcoat nicks in a similar spot earlier this year. I covered the new gel with packing tape immediately after I applied it and it smoothed it out really well. I let it sits for a few day then pulled the tape. After another couple of days I wetsanded it, then buffed and polished it.
clear packing tape? applied tape with gel still wet? Easy off I guess ;-)
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2013, 07:28 PM
maxpower220 maxpower220 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcparadise View Post
clear packing tape? applied tape with gel still wet? Easy off I guess ;-)
I use household wax paper directly after applying the gel. If you have a large area repair, you can spread and smooth the gel easily with this method. Cuts sanding time down.
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