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  #591  
Old 08-09-2013, 11:01 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by chriscraftmatt1976 View Post
220, 221... Whatever it takes
Exactly!
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  #592  
Old 08-11-2013, 09:07 AM
jkski jkski is offline
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August 11, 2013 Update: The deck posts are set!

Well, it took pretty much all day but we got all of the 20' 6x6 posts set for the deck. I can honestly say that I do not ever want to do that again with 20 footers! I ate my wheaties and those things still kicked my but! We got them up with 3 people (one person guiding it into the hole and 2 walking it up) then came the fun part of adjusting each post to the desired location and orientation, all without hitting the house!

Also managed to get the much smaller and lighter 12 footers in place for the deck I plan to build over the pond (at some point in the future!)

Next up, box it in, put in the joists and get the sucker looking like a deck!
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  #593  
Old 08-11-2013, 09:18 AM
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I have never seen a deck built that way. Around here everyone would frame the deck then put the posts in last. And the posts would sit on concrete footings that are poured to 4' depth but extend above grade. Not saying your method is wrong, just different.

The horizontal railings are legal here in MA. As long as you cant pass a 4" sphere through the openings. There was a time that in commercial buildings the rails couldn't form a "ladder" but that is long gone since we are now based on ICC codes.
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  #594  
Old 08-11-2013, 09:54 AM
Ben Ben is offline
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How about glass instead of the cables. Maybe it is lexan, I don't know.

See that more and more on lakes now. You can still run a 2x6 on top for the beer shelf.
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  #595  
Old 08-11-2013, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnE View Post
I have never seen a deck built that way. Around here everyone would frame the deck then put the posts in last. And the posts would sit on concrete footings that are poured to 4' depth but extend above grade. Not saying your method is wrong, just different.

The horizontal railings are legal here in MA. As long as you cant pass a 4" sphere through the openings. There was a time that in commercial buildings the rails couldn't form a "ladder" but that is long gone since we are now based on ICC codes.
Either way will work, however code here in my area would require large spread footings with so few posts and also would likely require them to be 6x6 w that spacing. Code here also requires posts to support beams (I.e. no through-bolting on either side) or use Simpson type brackets.

I am a fan of pouring solid footings and then using post boxes mounted w drilled, epoxy anchored bolts. Nice cuz you can snap lines and scribe locations on the footing pads and exactly locate and orient posts.

+1 on glass railings....also really like round, black aluminum powder coat ones.
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  #596  
Old 08-11-2013, 07:44 PM
jgraham37128 jgraham37128 is offline
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Going to deck it with 4" teak?
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  #597  
Old 08-12-2013, 09:34 AM
jkski jkski is offline
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I like teak but I think it would cost me more than building the actual house to do the deck in teak!!!

In our area pretty much all of the decks are built starting with the posts and they either pour the pier footer then set the post in the ground or do what JohnnyB stated by pouring the footer to the surface and then bolting the timber to it. I considered both options and talked to a lot of people and they were split on the method I chose vs. that which JohnnyB stated, the big thing was just to make certain you do not encase the post in concrete.
So, the way things stand now, the posts are in the ground and lightly tamped as to allow a little bit of wiggle room should I need it when putting the box band on. I should have some progress pics later in the week of the framing going up and in place!
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  #598  
Old 08-15-2013, 08:54 AM
jkski jkski is offline
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Augsut 15,2013 Update: Deck joists are in place on 14x22 side.

Got all of the deck joists in place for the 14x22 section of the deck last night so everything is nicely tied together for that portion now. Moving on to put the deck boards down but am looking for opinions on spacing them vs. not spacing them?
In decks I have built in the past using 5/4 pine, I have spaced them with a 6 pinny nail but I have heard a lot of guys say that they do not bother spacing as the wood is going to shrink anyways. So, give me some opinions as to what you guys are doing that build these everyday or at least more often than I do.

Thanks.
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  #599  
Old 08-15-2013, 09:03 AM
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For pt pine, I say no space.
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  #600  
Old 08-15-2013, 09:18 AM
carisch carisch is offline
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jkski,

I spent a ton of time researching decks when we built the deck on our lake house. Take a look at some of the pics in this link. I think two things apply.

Think about using hog fence as railing. I think it turns out great, from such a cheap material. I think $50 for 16 foot.

Second on the spacing, take a look closely at how my boards were laid. They have no nail/screws showing. We used a $30 tool, that grabs the board, and helps you to place a screw in at a diagonal. This tool is designed for manufactured wood, but we used on treated pine, and it was great. It puts the right amount of space between boards, and completely hides the screws. I was a little worried after shrinking the space would be too big, but after a year, it's fine.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11832...CJ30mZvh-b2oaw

Railing idea comes from this link. The lights underneath are the final touch.
http://www.chandlerdesignbuild.com/f...omRailings.pdf
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