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  #181  
Old 08-04-2013, 09:22 PM
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Well, the motor is in and running!! I started it quickly yesterday and had good oil pressure but I did not have the muffler installed. Today after installing that I started it and ran it for a few minutes, oil pressure was great and it sounded good but my idle was fluctuating up and down (surging). I'm hoping my cousin can come over this week and take a look at it with me, maybe it's as simple as the computer setting it's self up.

I also aligned the propshaft, the trans is over to the port side quite a bit but I was able to get everything aligned up and it looks good going thru the shaft log.



I am concerned about my fuel pump, it was froze up then I first tried it but after a few tries it started spinning but it seems very loud, I want to double check the fuel pressure to make sure that's working okay.

I still need to double check for leaks, get the idle straightened out, reassemble the dash and put the side decals on. I'm getting there.

Steve
What is the white PVC elbow for? Are you using a quick disconnect for the fresh water? That hole looks far too small to do any good for cooling. That needs to be at least the full 1-1/4" I.D. for it to pass enough water.
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  #182  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
What is the white PVC elbow for? Are you using a quick disconnect for the fresh water? That hole looks far too small to do any good for cooling. That needs to be at least the full 1-1/4" I.D. for it to pass enough water.
Jim,

Yes, I am using a garden hose to feed the fresh water and that is a quick disconnect. What are my options for running the boat out of the water, early on in this thread Frank said some people draw water from a 5 gallon pail that is being refilled with a garden hose that seems like it would run out of water if the hose couldn't keep up.

What are my options, I'd love to be able to run it for an extended period of time to get some of the bugs out before I take it to the water? Does it matter if it's just idling or if it's running higher RPM's whether it is enough cooling or not.

Thanks, Steve
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  #183  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:17 AM
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Jim,

Yes, I am using a garden hose to feed the fresh water and that is a quick disconnect. What are my options for running the boat out of the water, early on in this thread Frank said some people draw water from a 5 gallon pail that is being refilled with a garden hose that seems like it would run out of water if the hose couldn't keep up.

What are my options, I'd love to be able to run it for an extended period of time to get some of the bugs out before I take it to the water? Does it matter if it's just idling or if it's running higher RPM's whether it is enough cooling or not.

Thanks, Steve
If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.
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  #184  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:03 AM
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jsturvey jsturvey is offline
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Is this the stock pitch/size prop for my maristar?

Thanks, Steve
That's the same prop spec that is on mine, so I would say yes it is stock.
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  #185  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:29 PM
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If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.
Thank you, I will put something together tonight and let you know what I come up with. So it's more than the engine temp I need to be concerned with it's getting the rubber hoses too hot that go to the muffler and out of the boat?

Thanks again, Steve
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  #186  
Old 08-08-2013, 12:13 PM
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So much for not having anymore setbacks!!! The boat is running and the engine sounds good EXCEPT for a whine!!! Well I found it was the new waterpump (car style pump not the raw water pump) I installed that was making the noise, I have another one on order. Guess it's a set back but not the end of the world. I am getting worried that I'm running out of summer.

It sound good from the back until I get around to the engine compartment.



Steve
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  #187  
Old 08-08-2013, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.
I ended up getting a 30 gallon drum from work and I had some 1 1/2" hose left over from the pool that i reduced down to 1 1/4" and connected that to the raw water pump. I feed the barrel with my garden hose as it was running and was surprized how fast the barrel went down. Just ideling with a few revs in a minute or two it was almost to the bottom of the barrel.





Thanks, Steve
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  #188  
Old 08-08-2013, 01:54 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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That's why the best suggestion I've heard is the plastic kiddy pool. Place it under the exhausts to catch the water coming out, put a garden hose in it to keep it topped off, and run a hose up to the raw water pump. You should be able to run for 10-20 minutes at a time - just make sure to shut it down before the water gets hot enough to melt the pool!
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  #189  
Old 09-04-2013, 12:09 PM
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I haven't updated in a while. I put the boat in the water a few weeks ago and while on the trailer still I tried the trans in forward and reverse and at idle, in gear it sounded bad!!!

Click to watch video


I'm planning on pulling the trans and double checking the dampner plate/flywheel and probably splitting the trans to see if anything looks wrong but that will be next spring. Our summer is basically over for us since the kids are back in school.

I winterized the boat yeasterday and will be looking for a place to store it. I wish I had got it running and on the water but I enjoyed learning about the boat the cleaning it up.

TO BE COBTINUED!!!

I just want to say Thanks for all the knowledge that was shared, I could not have imagined doing it without this site!!!

Thanks again, Steve
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  #190  
Old 09-04-2013, 12:27 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Hey, you've got all winter to work on that trans - get it outta the boat before you cover everything up for the Winter!

This has been a marvelous thread to follow, even though I'm sure it's been painful for you having to go through everything you've gone through. A lot of useful information for our era of boats has been condensed into this one thread. I wish you'd been able to get it running and breaking waves at least once this summer, but I guess that'll have to wait for next year.

Good luck,

/frank
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