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  #51  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:44 AM
Jeff_in_NY Jeff_in_NY is offline
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That prop certainly is dinged enough to cause vibration. However, you really should check the straightness of the shaft to be sure. If you live near a Harbor Freight you can get this Dial Indicator for $35.00 minus 20% off.

Use that and be sure for yourself.

I would say adding grease vs. water to the grease fitting will make a difference
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  #52  
Old 08-03-2013, 11:08 AM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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So a pictureless update for now and more confusion regarding this vibration..

I decided to drop it off at the shop after last weekend to have everything measured up to find the source of the vibration and they cannot find any explanation. I'm getting conflicting info between a couple sources at this point:

The shop measured the coupling gap and shaft, found no gap variances at the coupler and less than .0015 at multiple points on the shaft. The strut and cutlass bearing have no play whatsoever either. I felt at that point that it must be the prop but the mechanics at the shop felt that it wasn't damaged enough to cause the kind of vibration I'm describing.
I decided to have the prop done regardless since it does have damage so I brought it down to H&H (seem to be the most reputable in this part of New England) and dropped it off. When they looked at it they said it was in terrible shape and def needed to be done for what you can see in the pics. They said they agreed that the damage to the fins may not have been enough to cause the vibration but they pointed out that there was some scoring/wear in the bore of the prop that shows it hadn't been seated properly on the shaft whenever last installed and that that was what was causing the vibration under load.. The said it should be installed with some type of sandy-grit stuff?? I subsequently stopped by the shop again and told them what they'd said and the mechanics disagreed and said they had to really fight to get the prop off the shaft (more so than normal) and didn't see anyway it could've had any play..
Oh well, I'm out of ideas for now - couple more days and a little over $200 for the prop repair and we'll see what happens next weekend when I get her back in the water.
This week coming the shaft log will be getting new glass and I'm going to try and order up a new cutlass bearing for the strut since it's all apart. (planning on XPC, any thoughts?)
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Last edited by XavierSPL; 08-05-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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  #53  
Old 08-03-2013, 07:29 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XavierSPL View Post
So a pictureless update for now and more confusion regarding this vibration..

I decided to drop it off at the shop after last weekend to have everything measured up to find the source of the vibration and they cannot find any explanation. I'm getting conflicting info between a couple sources at this point:

The shop measured the coupling gap and shaft, found no gap variances at the coupler and less than .0015 at multiple points on the shaft. The strut and cutlass bearing have no play whatsoever either. I felt at that point that it must be the prop but the mechanics at the shop felt that it wasn't damaged enough to cause the kind of vibration I'm describing.
I decided to have the prop done regardless since it does have damage so I brought it down to H&H (seem to be the most reputable in this part of New England) and dropped it off. When they looked at it they said it was in terrible shape and def needed to be done for what you can see in the pics. They said they agreed that the damage to the fins may not have been enough to cause the vibration but they pointed out that there was some scoring/wear in the bore of the prop that shows it hadn't been seated properly on the shaft whenever last installed and that that was what was causing the vibration under load.. The said it should be installed with some type of sandy-grit stuff?? I subsequently stopped by the shop again and told them what they'd said and the mechanics disagreed and said they had to really fight to get the prop off the shaft (more so than normal) and didn't see anyway it could've had any play..
Oh well, I'm out of ideas for now - couple more days and a little over $200 for the prop repair and we'll see what happens next weekend when I get her back in the water.
This week coming the shaft log will be getting new glass and I'm going to try and order up a new cutlass bearing for the strut since it's all apart. (planning on XPS, any thoughts?)
I just went through a similar process - leak around the shaft log and decided to replace the cutlass bearings with XPC while I was doing it. My boat would take on water while docked. After fixing this leak it's extrememly dry!
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=54563

I also seated my prop using the MC suggested method per the owner's manual that came with our boats, which is using valve grinding compound on the shaft to eliminate any high spots and ensure a contact area of something like 70%. Here's a link: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=56115

I'd guess the vibration is the prop, either damage or...possibly if it's not seated properly and has rotated some on the shaft to where it's hard to remove...maybe it's also slightly 'out of balance'? Have no idea on this last statement, just a wild a$$ guess
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  #54  
Old 08-06-2013, 05:25 PM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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Thanks for the links Jack, very helpful info..

Progress underway on the shaft log, all torn apart now and getting cleaned up, should be all done and reglassed in the next day or 2. Here's some pics:




Also picked up my prop today, looking so good I'm now feeling like I better clean up the strut and rudder!!

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  #55  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:27 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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That pink material remain on the hull in the pictures is the same thing mine had, pretty sure it's Bondo. That was probably the best choice of attempting to bond aluminum to fiberglass back then, but today, there are a lot of more advanced resins that will both bond better, and allow for some flex to accomodate the vibration and movement that could occur in that area. I used West System's G-Flex, thickened into a paste and 'bedded' the aluminum stuffing box into that. I considered 3M 5200 but decided on G-Flex after talking to tech support at WS.
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  #56  
Old 08-10-2013, 08:10 PM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by d2jp View Post
That pink material remain on the hull in the pictures is the same thing mine had, pretty sure it's Bondo. That was probably the best choice of attempting to bond aluminum to fiberglass back then, but today, there are a lot of more advanced resins that will both bond better, and allow for some flex to accomodate the vibration and movement that could occur in that area. I used West System's G-Flex, thickened into a paste and 'bedded' the aluminum stuffing box into that. I considered 3M 5200 but decided on G-Flex after talking to tech support at WS.
Ended up using epoxy then mat and sealed it all in with gelcoat..

To my disappointment, the vibration is still there after all the work this past couple weeks. . Turns out it was the engine skipping a cylinder the whole time.. a quick compression check showed cylinder 1 had only 10lbs or so, all others were 135ish.. I threw a bit of oil in the cylinder and no change so narrowed it down to a valve. After p7lling the valve cover right there jumping out at me was a rocker out of place, the stud had snapped. Replaced and for a minute all seemed well until I gave her a bit of throttle, problem still there. Im guessing it just snapped again.. havent had any time to tear it down again but for now im on 7 cylinders
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  #57  
Old 08-12-2013, 11:21 AM
catamount catamount is offline
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What a bummer! What would cause the rocker stud to snap twice? Man, sorry you had that happen right after a rebuild.
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  #58  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:35 PM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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Originally Posted by catamount View Post
What a bummer! What would cause the rocker stud to snap twice? Man, sorry you had that happen right after a rebuild.
Bummer indeed.. After my last post I tried doing a compression test and the valve in the tester stuck open but it seemed that cylinder #1 was now working so I pulled the valve cover off again and turns out the new stud held and no issues could be seen on the drivers side.. I replaced and gapped all new plugs, checked the wires, checked the firing order to rule it out and double checked the timing.. So far all seems fine, need to pull the other valve cover and see what's doing under there..
Feeling like there could be an issue with the head that had the snapped rocker stud. It is very frustrating to say the least, spent a lot of $$ to check all the drive train, never thought the issue could lie with the engine at all...
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  #59  
Old 05-19-2014, 10:33 PM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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Time to revive this thread as I'm back to work on her getting ready to get back in the water in the next week or so.. My plan for this season is to complete everything still left to restore saving only the vinyl and carpet for this coming winter..

Over the last couple weeks I've managed to get a bit done that I never tended to last season, starting with the hull as there were several small leaks that I never tended to last year. Pulled the gas tank and decided to also get my speedos working - on one side, I found a tear in the tube near the transom and on the other side I found that the brass cylinder the tube runs through had popped the cap out (likely ice got in there at some point). It was pretty gross under there in general, looked like this when I started:



I pulled out everything that goes through the transom and redid all the adhesive, and replaced the bilge vent hose and the exhaust hoses, degreased everything and decided to redo the swim platform brakets as well.


(you can also see a shot of how the gelcoated shaftlog repair came out.)




Swim platform before:

And after:
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  #60  
Old 05-19-2014, 10:44 PM
XavierSPL XavierSPL is offline
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Since I started getting ready to replace the stereo and got up into the dash I decided to change the steering wheel also..

Out with the old:

In with the new:


Luckily I found the MC logo badge for the old wheel sitting in the cupholder when I got the boat, just need to replace the Grant one with that..

I'm still working out the vibration issues I dealt with last year unfortunately, I'll be posting in the engine section to try and get some help there. Ended up replacing the lifters this past weekend and got everything bolted back up and running tonight, just doesn't seem to be quite right yet but hopefully will have it sorted pretty quickly.. Next will be to get her polished and waxed this week prior to getting in the water!!
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