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  #71  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:38 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootjoe View Post
Other Issues from this trip.

1. New water pump exit line stayed cool ( I checked it ever few min for the first hour), but the temp sensor was dead. Where is the temp sensor on the engine? 1980 ford 351, pmc

2. Tack went high when engine above Idle, Ive heard this is possibly from vibration. Where does the tach lead connect to the engine?

3. Fuel Gauge was dead, Not sure where to start there?

4. Amp gauge was frozen / dead in the middle. Where does this connect to the engine.

All gauge fuses showed voltage on the voltmeter at the fuse box, and fuses were good.

Ideas and Pictures of locations would be a great help!!! Thanks.
Just in case you missed it, anyone have any pics or can help with the locations?
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  #72  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:37 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
Fuel problem solved, Problem was the back flow connector, replaced with normal brass connector, fuel flow returned to normal.

Now on to the Gauges, any input on locating would be a great help. (See above)
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  #73  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:37 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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Gauges fixed, Everything is working perfectly.
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  #74  
Old 05-22-2012, 09:35 AM
JohnMogs
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Hi BareFootJoe,
I'm reviving a 1980 PowerSlot, have a leak on the driver's side of the main stringers, not sure if it's exhaust but wanted to ask you to clarify if you could have removed the exhaust out the back of the boat or if you/we do in fact need to pull up the floor? My dealer said the muffler will pull out the back of the boat along with the 4" hose that goes to the exhaust manifold, the connection between the two is under the floor. I'm trying to avoid ripping up the floor to check the exhaust system for leaks. I might pull the gas tank out and try to reach around the floor board to feel for a leak. My PO replaced the stringers so there isn't another (bigger) reason to rip up the floors.
Thanks!
John
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  #75  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:05 AM
81SNS 81SNS is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1981 stars/stripes 351W
Location: southeast
Posts: 89
You are correct, it will slide out the back, just take out the screws around the flange and pull it out, you will probably need someone in the boat to help guide the exhaust hose down and out, its a very snug fit coming out of there.
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  #76  
Old 07-28-2013, 01:46 PM
1979mastercraftpboyedition 1979mastercraftpboyedition is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Boat: 1979 Mastercraft PBoy Edition 351W
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootjoe View Post
Fuel problem solved, Problem was the back flow connector, replaced with normal brass connector, fuel flow returned to normal.
(See above)
What is this back flow connector? I am having a similar problem on a '79 and I am not sure what this is...I checked the entire fuel delivery and all appears to be normal and functioning but I am not getting sufficient fuel flow to the carb.
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  #77  
Old 07-28-2013, 07:50 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979mastercraftpboyedition View Post
What is this back flow connector? I am having a similar problem on a '79 and I am not sure what this is...I checked the entire fuel delivery and all appears to be normal and functioning but I am not getting sufficient fuel flow to the carb.
There may be a check valve on a 90 degree elbow coming out the top of the fuel cell where the fuel line is connected. If it's there, you can replace it with an open connector. That is what I think he is referring to a back flow connector. Commonly referred to as an anti-siphoning valve.

If you see the need to pull the fuel cell forward (or out of the compartment), the fuel filler hose is hardened and a b!tch to get off. Save yourself time and grief.... cut it off and remove the cell. Order a new one from www.skidim.com. I promise it's worth the cost of a new hose just not to have to struggle with the old hose.

While you're there, I'd replace the old fuel hose with new all the way to the fuel pump. Again, cut the old hose off the barbed fittings.

Also with the cell out, check the hose clamp connections on the mufflers and the exhaust ports, grease the rudder zirk and the steering cable zirk if it has one, and remove the ground wire at the filler port. Run a new ground for the sending unit to a place forward away from the filler point of contact.

Also a good time to put in new ventilation hose (inexpensive) where it comes from the blower to the vent ports.

.
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Last edited by Cloaked; 07-28-2013 at 08:12 PM.
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