Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-08-2013, 08:23 AM
cruiser cruiser is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2013
Boat: 1981 mastercraft S & S 351W PowerSlot
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 424
Packing gland and hose

I have a powerslot so the shaft is the bigger of the two. Can you change the packing gland and the hose without pulling the shaft completely out? Do they sell the gland material and the hose as a kit?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-08-2013, 12:52 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is online now
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1998 Maristar 200VRS
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,562
If you need to simply re-pack the stuffing box, then you can do that easily without removing the shaft. This is a good tutorial. Skidim will have the packing.

If, however, the hose is torn or deteriorated and needs replacing, then you'll have to at least seperate the coupler at the transmission, remove the coupler from the shaft, and slide the shaft back. If you still don't have enough space, you'll have to remove the prop - at which time the whole shaft should slide right out the back.
__________________
1998 Maristar 200VRS
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-08-2013, 01:58 PM
d2jp's Avatar
d2jp d2jp is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: ProStar 190, 1989, 351W
Location: VA/NC
Posts: 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser View Post
I have a powerslot so the shaft is the bigger of the two. Can you change the packing gland and the hose without pulling the shaft completely out? Do they sell the gland material and the hose as a kit?
Like Frank said, you can usually change the packing material in a powerslot without removing the shaft. Big block motors (454) being an exception. That link he provided is a good resource. You have the larger drive shaft 1-1/8" and will need the 3/16" packing. I used the GFO last time and it works great. With the powerslot gear reduction, you don't typically have a ton of room to slide the packing nut up the shaft, but usually enough to pick out the old material and install the new.

To replace the hose, you will need to pull the shaft - which involves removing the coupling. You'll also need to remove the prop - which I would do first, plenty of threads around on that. I soaked my coupling for a couple of days with PB Blaster and used the homemade puller with 4 pc of threaded rod and some nuts. Here's a link where I pulled my shaft. SkiDim also has the shaft hose, it's sold in 6" sections. My repair was a little more involved as my boat was leaking around the joint where the stuffing box is affixed to the hull. While I was reparing this leak, I decided to replace the other stuff.

Lastly, if you have all of this stuff off - might as well replace the cutlass bearings. Pretty easy to do and not too much money. I've heard the 'recommended interval' on replacement is 300-500 hrs. but have heard of boats with 1000+ hrs still on the original. Mine wasn't worn bad at all, but I replaced it since I was already pulling the shaft.
__________________
Jack
-----------------------------------------
1989 ProStar 190 Power Slot
Somewhere between SML and LKG
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-09-2013, 08:36 AM
cruiser cruiser is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2013
Boat: 1981 mastercraft S & S 351W PowerSlot
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 424
What diameter hose? Cutlass bearing must have been replaced, it feels great.

Last edited by cruiser; 07-09-2013 at 10:36 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-09-2013, 01:49 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Boat: 1988 MC Prostar 190, 351 Ford
Location: Midwest
Posts: 3,451
Send a message via AIM to 88 PS190
Pull prop regardless - you never want to split the coupler at the transmission with a 300$ hunk of metal attached to the rear or you'll smash into the rudder.

For the hose - there is a specific product - it is thick - I think 6 ply hose with reinforcement.

If you leave your boat in the water unattended or spend much time boating far from shores/docks I would make sure you buy the proper stuff.

Skidim sells and recommends what is essentially marine radiator hose for the shaft log. If this fails your boat will sink shortly. Probably fine if you boat from a lift on a small lake and can get back to your lift.

Otherwise source the good stuff.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:07 AM.