Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 07-08-2013, 02:22 PM
Master Earl Craft Master Earl Craft is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: MasterCraft Prostar 190 1993 351W HO
Location: Midwest
Posts: 18
chirscraftmatt1976 - Your note about the new carb, "I'm probably going to replace with a different carb anyway. This one ***," didn't show the model number. Are you refering to the Holley 4150. I found a post from 2006 which had a couple reccomendatons... see below.

There are two options that will work on your application. The first is part #0-80559 (Holley 4150, 600CFM). This is a 600 CFM unit that should be plenty big for a 285 horsepower application, and will make your boat run like a FI boat.

The second option is part #0-9015-1 (4160 750 CFM). This is the 750 CFM unit, which is probably overkill, unless you have dreams of swapping cams/heads/etc, to create a high performance gas-guzzler.

You can find these carbs Vic Hubbard's marine shop for $449: https://vichubbard.com/shop/product.php?productid=61964
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-08-2013, 03:27 PM
Master Earl Craft Master Earl Craft is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: MasterCraft Prostar 190 1993 351W HO
Location: Midwest
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MI_Corey View Post
My dad has the same boat and had the same issue. After fighting it a couple years he gave up and bought a new carb. That was about five years ago and no problems since.
What new carb did he get?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-23-2014, 05:51 PM
Master Earl Craft Master Earl Craft is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: MasterCraft Prostar 190 1993 351W HO
Location: Midwest
Posts: 18
Still Issues - one year later

I made the leap and replaced the 4010 with a 4160. Still have the issue with hard start when warm. I may have a little work to do yet setting the floats and idle mix, but cannot foresee that making enough of a difference to solve this. Does anyone believe that perhaps it is electrical? Should I replace plugs and wires? Is my coil getting too hot and not efficiently getting enough juice to the plugs? Do I need a new distributor?

If I knew what I could get for my boat, I'd sell is and look for a '94 with EFI.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-23-2014, 08:01 PM
Jerseydave's Avatar
Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
TT Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2005 X-STAR & 1993 Prostar 190 Limited
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5,401
[quote=TRBenj;954807]Anyone who thinks they need to "pump the throttle" to get a carb'd engine to start when warm should try the trick described above. Same goes for anyone who thinks their carbureted boat suffers from "heat soak". If it works, then the engine is flooded and needs air, not gas- and every time you pump the throttle you add both! Just open the throttle once and it'll start a little easier until you have a chance to fix the problem.

In the above described scenario, pop the flame arrestor off the carb and take a look down the throat to see whats happening. Check it at idle (engine running) and directly after shut down. Chances are that you will see fuel dripping. Fuel should not be dripping from the boosters while at idle, and should not be dripping at all with the engine off. Dripping fuel is the result of either a)float set too high or b)needle and seat issues. Both will allow the bowl to fill past the point where it should, and the excess fuel will end up dripping in the main body of the carb, past the butterflies and puddle in the intake manifold. EI, flood the engine.

^Check the carb for dripping again while it's hot and idling, and also when you shut it off. There should be no gas dripping from the boosters.

If that looks good, start with basics on the electrical system. New points and condenser, set the dwell (with a dwell meter) and the timing. A coil can go bad and get hotter than normal causing a problem with hot starting, so don't discount that either. I think a new coil is pretty cheap, might be worth getting one. Check your ballast resistor too if you have one. Also a cheap part to replace.
__________________
I was njskier on here.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-23-2014, 11:28 PM
madcityskier's Avatar
madcityskier madcityskier is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 85 Stars&Stripes, safe-t-top, trick realease, boom, flitepipe pylon
Location: madison, wi
Posts: 1,717
Chriscraftmatt1976 stopped hanging out here. I believe he ended up replacing the fuel lines and the overflow valve. That seems to have made a big difference. His sat for a couple ears with 10% ethanol in it, and the fuel lines were very gummy. Ran great 2 weeks back when he took me out.
__________________
I spent most of my money on booze, broads and boats. The rest I wasted. - Elmore Leonard
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-24-2014, 12:03 AM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 14,871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Earl Craft View Post
I made the leap and replaced the 4010 with a 4160. Still have the issue with hard start when warm. I may have a little work to do yet setting the floats and idle mix, but cannot foresee that making enough of a difference to solve this. Does anyone believe that perhaps it is electrical? Should I replace plugs and wires? Is my coil getting too hot and not efficiently getting enough juice to the plugs? Do I need a new distributor?

If I knew what I could get for my boat, I'd sell is and look for a '94 with EFI.
You could have some resistance in the electrical system preventing battery voltage from being present at the coil (less the ballast resistor). Check your voltage at the + side of the coil with the key on. Also check voltage at the connection at the ballast resistor. Also check cranking voltage at the coil. Something as simple as a battery cable with high resistance can cause this. I just replaced my battery cables for this reason.
__________________
Peter

Tandem Axle Wheel & Tire Package $659
4 S5 or S5 Black 14x5.5 wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 Kenda Loadstar tires

Single Axle Wheel & Tire Package $399
2 S5 or S5 Black 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 Kenda Loadstar tires
MOUNT, BALANCE & FREE SHIPPING INCLUDED IN BOTH PACKAGES



CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-24-2014, 08:33 AM
Master Earl Craft Master Earl Craft is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: MasterCraft Prostar 190 1993 351W HO
Location: Midwest
Posts: 18
No points, condenser, or ballast resistor. Replaced with Electronic Ignition. The marina also replaced the coil before I started with the carburetor.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:45 AM.