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  #261  
Old 07-05-2013, 11:06 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is online now
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You're past me on this one but I tend to error on the side that bigger is better when it comes to power and grounding.
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  #262  
Old 07-05-2013, 11:08 AM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is offline
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Hey just wanted to say thanks to the guys in this thread that helped me with my head unit wiring issue. The noise is gone. Everything sounds perfect. No matter what battery I have it set to.
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  #263  
Old 07-08-2013, 12:06 PM
LTRGUY261 LTRGUY261 is offline
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Boat: Centurion, Elite V C4, 2006 5.7L
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I also wanted to say thanks to the folks on this thread. Between here and the other forum I frequent I was able to wire in the second battery and BW Isolator relay. I additionally wired in a fuse panel from the second battery to move some of my accessories to. Lastly wired in an amp and got some wires up into my tower (a Skylon Swoop, this was not easy) and mounted our tower speakers. So thanks again to everyone for their inputs, write ups, and advice, it was all very helpful.
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  #264  
Old 09-24-2013, 12:04 PM
Dweibel Dweibel is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Boat: Mastercraft X Star, 2010
Location: Central Texas
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I have a 2010 boat, just added a stereo setup with about an extra 1000 watts and just started having battery issues running hte stereo over 15 minutes with the boat off. Was thinking of replacing one battery with a higher powered one? Anybody have thoughts or suggestions, or should I just get two new regular batteries, as they are 3 years / 300 hours old
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  #265  
Old 09-24-2013, 12:53 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is online now
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I like to match the batteries. I've had good luck with Optima Blue tops however there is a lot of conversation on their performance/reliability on this board. Neither of which I've had the slightest issue with (just completing my fifth season and still look to be going strong).

Many opt to stick with conventional lead/acid batteries and go big. If you do decide to go AGM be aware of the charging requirements which will most likely mean having to replace the charger you may have inherited from Grandpa with an advanced and somewhat expensive new charger.....

On lead/acid I've heard most people recommending Interstate. On AGM I've heard Deka and Odyessey come up quite a bit.
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  #266  
Old 09-24-2013, 03:29 PM
MLA MLA is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dweibel View Post
I have a 2010 boat, just added a stereo setup with about an extra 1000 watts and just started having battery issues running hte stereo over 15 minutes with the boat off. Was thinking of replacing one battery with a higher powered one? Anybody have thoughts or suggestions, or should I just get two new regular batteries, as they are 3 years / 300 hours old
I would have them tested. After three years, you are on borrowed time IMO. Next, if you have a 2 batteries and both are going dead after playing the stereo at anchor, then you need to look into how the battery system is configured. If you dont have a dual battery setup, I would suggest doing one. This would allow you to isolate a battery for restarting the engine after playing the stereo at anchor.
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  #267  
Old 11-03-2013, 06:57 PM
Timdog145 Timdog145 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1989 Mastercraft ProStar 190 351ci
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89 Prostar 2nd Battery Location

I have been reading a lot on this thread about how to wire a second battery and I have figured out how I want to wire it. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to secure as second battery in the bow of an 89 Prostar 190?
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  #268  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timdog145 View Post
I have been reading a lot on this thread about how to wire a second battery and I have figured out how I want to wire it. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to secure as second battery in the bow of an 89 Prostar 190?
Yeah- don't put it in the bow. You want the cabling to the first battery and alternator to be as short as possible and placing it in the bow doesn't allow that to happen.
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  #269  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:16 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timdog145 View Post
I have been reading a lot on this thread about how to wire a second battery and I have figured out how I want to wire it. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to secure as second battery in the bow of an 89 Prostar 190?
I have done this in previous closed bows (83, 85, 93 models) similar to the 89.

Your machine has a floor / on stringers throughout up to the point of where the hull vees into the bow configuration.

On the 93 (most recent) I bought a battery box and secured it to the floor with the mounting brackets that come with the box. Think I paid $12 - 15 for the box, lid, and tie-downs. Just secure the brackets to the floor with #10 or so wood screws, wedging the box (not forcing anything) into the vee configuration and secure it there. I used an old life jacket strap with a buckle instead of the oem strap with friction tightener. Much easier to work with that when accessing and egressing the box.

This will leave plenty of room under the bow for other items. I moved the start battery from the rear fuel cell compartment and placed the start battery under the passenger seat, then measured out my wiring configuration. Went to Genuinedealz dot com for prefabricated tinned wire, end connectors, shrink. They do a great job and ship USPS 'if it fits it ships' and my $450 worth of wire cost $12 and some change to ship. No wire weight to consider for shipping.



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  #270  
Old 11-03-2013, 09:24 PM
Timdog145 Timdog145 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 1989 Mastercraft ProStar 190 351ci
Location: northeast
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battery placement

JimN: Where would you recommend mounting battery 2? battery 1 is under the spotter's seat so the bow is the closest place to it, and as far as I can tell it is the only place I can get it to fit. under the back seat is not an option on the '89.
And Cloaked: pardon my ignorance because I am a brand new Mastercraft owner. Can I screw into the floor into the bow anywhere? What material is the deck made of under the carpet? The bow storage area is the only place I can find to fit the battery, and it would be somewhat easier to wire in and isolator because of its proximity to the original battery under the spotter's seat. Did you make it so the whole battery box is removable so you dont have to lift the battery out of the box?
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