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Old 06-29-2013, 07:19 PM
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kenps190 kenps190 is offline
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May have just ended the season!

Hit a submerged tree today, wife was driving and didn't see the temp gauge needle reading over 220 degrees. I was skiing, By the time I got back in the boat the damage was already done.
The tree broke the water intake and clogged with debris restricting almost all of the water flow into the engine. It also did fiberglass damage on the stern. The engine got hot enough to warp the exhaust tips and lost both flappers.

Just got home with a new inlet but not sure if it is worth installing to hook up the fake lake.

My guess it's new block time.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:24 PM
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Sorry to read....
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenps190 View Post
Hit a submerged tree today, wife was driving and didn't see the temp gauge needle reading over 220 degrees. I was skiing, By the time I got back in the boat the damage was already done.
The tree broke the water intake and clogged with debris restricting almost all of the water flow into the engine. It also did fiberglass damage on the stern. The engine got hot enough to warp the exhaust tips and lost both flappers.

Just got home with a new inlet but not sure if it is worth installing to hook up the fake lake.

My guess it's new block time.
Call your insurance agent.

There's no guarantee that it's all toast. Since it will require some exhaust parts anyway, make a list of what definitely needs replacing and start with the obvious. Test the compression but run it with a better water supply than a Fake A Lake will provide, especially if your water supply's volume isn't higher than what the raw water pump draws.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:07 PM
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Yikes!
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2013, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Call your insurance agent.

There's no guarantee that it's all toast. Since it will require some exhaust parts anyway, make a list of what definitely needs replacing and start with the obvious. Test the compression but run it with a better water supply than a Fake A Lake will provide, especially if your water supply's volume isn't higher than what the raw water pump draws.
^I agree!

Put your intake hose into a bucket and run the engine that way making sure the bucket is always full of water. You may get lucky since your engine is a cast iron.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:11 PM
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Bummer, sorry to read that.

Hope it works out for you.
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:20 PM
hondaprlud hondaprlud is offline
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Sorry to hear

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  #8  
Old 06-30-2013, 08:16 AM
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kenps190 kenps190 is offline
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Originally Posted by Jerseydave View Post
^I agree!

Put your intake hose into a bucket and run the engine that way making sure the bucket is always full of water. You may get lucky since your engine is a cast iron.
Thanks guys, I'm going to try this today. Still waiting for my insurance guy to call me back.
Hopefully it won't be as bad as I think.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:10 PM
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Spoke to my claims adjuster today. Have appointment at a dealer for the engine on Monday after the 4th. Trying to decide if I have the dealer do the fiberglass repair. The adjuster highly suggested a shop in Tulsa for the glass repair that specializes in boat and RV fiberglass repair.

What do you guys think?
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:23 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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I'd have the dealer take a look first - my guess engine isn't toast - but who knows, most boat engines are run somewhat too cold most of the time, figure that most 350 small block chevies in cars run 190-210 as standard range.

Biggest issue with this in boats is that the open loop cooling system will boil at the same temp as water on the stove, the antifreeze with a pressure cap in a truck will keep the boil down.

So if the coolant boiled out in the heads, and particularly in aluminum heads - that can give you some issues, but then again... depends.

I've seen "boat" specialty guys screw up hulls, guy on our lake had an MC with a repair after a skeg strike - boat never skied properly again. They basically made a step in the hull.
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