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  #11  
Old 05-26-2013, 06:42 PM
Shilohsho Shilohsho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith3613 View Post
. I float mine up far enough to use the bar alone. Then, I leave the ramp and tighten the winch later.
I just bought a S&S and first time trying to load I incurred the same problems.
I cannot float mine on further because it will hit the top of the jack post. So, just power load? Any recommended water level versus fender depth? Winching on is not the best answer because the angle of the winch line is pulling the boat down rather than parallel with the bunks.
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:45 PM
86Skier 86Skier is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shilohsho View Post
I cannot float mine on further because it will hit the top of the jack post. So, just power load? Any recommended water level versus fender depth? Winching on is not the best answer because the angle of the winch line is pulling the boat down rather than parallel with the bunks.
Exact same problem. You are not going to winch my boat on the trailer... I don't care who you are. With the current set-up, it pulls the boat down into the front bump stop, not forward.
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:48 PM
86Skier 86Skier is online now
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Originally Posted by jdnsx View Post
Slightly more than idle speed should be all that is necessary to load and/or unload the boat.
Perhaps you didn't read my earlier post? I was told point blank by the Sheriff's Dept that any power was unacceptable. "Pull in to the dock, shut it down, and winch it on like everyone else."


Which brings me back to my very first post... anyone do a mod like this? And if so, how did it work?
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2013, 05:25 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Skier View Post
Perhaps you didn't read my earlier post? I was told point blank by the Sheriff's Dept that any power was unacceptable. "Pull in to the dock, shut it down, and winch it on like everyone else."


Which brings me back to my very first post... anyone do a mod like this? And if so, how did it work?
I have not used this configuration but I'd say the setup will work fine. The only thing I can see that may require finagling is the trailer depth (probably a little deeper) to get the boat fully forward and onto the bunks (as best as can be expected).

More on a note of personal preference, I'd secure the bow with an addition tie-down (Boat Buckle makes a single pack tie-down) for that very application. I'd also make sure that the transom is secured and not just riding on the bunks.

Back to your first post, yes, from the looks of the configuration, that will work. This is probably your best bet all things considered. I would also have the fabricator weld a piece of material across the Y-split just behind the new configuration (where the new configuration sits on the combined c-channels) to reduce any (possible) flex in the trailer frame near that point. This will reduce the risk of the frame flexing and shearing a weld from the channel. Welding perpendicular (cross-grain) to a material is not recommended but sometimes cannot be avoided. May be overkill but it's a reduction in risk...

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  #15  
Old 05-28-2013, 12:49 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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I had a weld shop (wheelock and sons west of traverse city) convert the 88 for the same reason.

Not a big job, if you want a swing away tongue get that done too.

One thing I would also add would be a keel roller, the carpeted V is a good stop, and I am sure is safer than a roller, but a roller really helps get the bow up onto that V.

MI dnr ramps are tough I often have to lift the bow up to get the eye over the bunk, a well placed roller would solve that.
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  #16  
Old 05-28-2013, 06:30 AM
86Skier 86Skier is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 PS190 View Post
I had a weld shop (wheelock and sons west of traverse city) convert the 88 for the same reason.
Mind sharing what you paid?
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2013, 07:10 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Those who have a problem getting the boat far enough up the trailer- are you loading onto dry bunks?

Some boat launches were designed by imbicils who don't know anything about boats that weigh more than a Jon boat with a 5HP outboard. They're usually too short and at the wrong angle to load without driving the two vehicle into the water. What they should do is make it a few feet longer, more steep at the waterline and reduce the angle as it goes farther in, so the trailer is more level.

The first time I had to load a boat at Lauderdale Lake, it was before they rebuilt the ramp and as I backed in, I watched the guide posts completely disappear- the ramp had been washed away by all of the idiots in their bass boats with 150HP motors.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:54 AM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
You guys work very hard and there is a smarter way (no insult intended) to use the trailers, single handed, load and lock down in two steps, less than 60 seconds. I promise. Been doing this for many years (more than 30) with this setup. Each to their own, but think about what your doing here...

No need to even do any winching at all... no pushing required... no sudden stops.....nothing except drive the boat on the trailer and latch the bar.... (a few more motions but that is the gist of it...). one person can do all of this from the boat (including latching the bar properly) and then drive away in the tow vehicle.

IMHO, that bar is the best safety feature you can have on the trailer inclusive of a transom tie-down system....

I have posted about this several times in the past. Just sharing a bit of info here from experience.

However, the setup above looks fairly typical as far as an option. Not saying it doesn't work, but for me, I'd keep my bar long before I'd use another setup. Much easier since there is no winching required and no one has to get in the water at anytime to load and secure the boat.

$0.02

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How do you get to the bar when you are in the boat? Climb over the windshield onto the deck and reach down for it? Or get out of the boat?

I too like the safety of the bar. And, powerloading in my area is OK, but my concern is if I were to have an engine issue and not have any power - how could I load? I guess back the trailer as deep as possible, float/push/pull the boat on, attach winch line and then use the slam on the brake method......
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2013, 10:33 AM
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tph tph is offline
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Hitch height

I've found that lowering the hitch height during retrieval helps. It seems to compensate for ramps that aren't the greatest. I use this hitch assembly and a cordless drill with a 3/8" drive adapter. Works great!
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  #20  
Old 05-28-2013, 01:38 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Skier View Post
Mind sharing what you paid?
Not at all - but I'd have to find the itemized invoice, they blasted, ground, added flat plate top and bottom where part of the trailer was rusty/crappy. Welded that up, added the metal for the lift, then powder coated the entirety, including powder coating the rims.

I'm not sure where that invoice is currently but will look.

I would say it was surprisingly reasonable, a call to them should get you a reasonable idea, depending where you are in MI they would be my go to for these types of projects.

http://www.wheelockandsons.com/

Ideal would be to have the boat on the trailer and have them mock up, then launch the boat and have them weld it.
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