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  #221  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:33 AM
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musicmd musicmd is offline
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Boat: 2004 Mastercraft X-10
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I am thinking of upgrading my '04 X-10 to a dual battery setup and have a few follow-up questions. I just replaced the battery last week, after finding that the lead-acid battery from 2008 wouldn't hold a charge under a load. (I'm glad I figured that out before heading out on the water.) I upped the ante a bit, buying a dual-purpose marine battery which should do a good job.

Now, I'm considering adding a second battery so that we can listen to music out on the lake without worries about battery drain. We typically do a lot of waterskiing and wakeboarding, so the amount of time the boat would sit idle is pretty slim (i.e., an hour or two at most). Even given this, I think it would be worth the piece of mind to know that the stereo/other accessories weren't robbing us of sufficient juice to start the engine again.

I see the Borg Warner R3098 is still available on Amazon and at local auto parts stores. Is this still the best relay or is there a better alternative?
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  #222  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:37 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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It certainly isn't a bad choice but an easier installation would probably be a "add a battery" kit from Blue Seas. There's YouTube videos and all kinds of step by step instructions on how to do the installation in multiple locations.......

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...1_10001_17208_
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  #223  
Old 05-24-2013, 10:06 AM
tilzinger tilzinger is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
Boat: Larsen LX850
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I'm about to order the parts to add a second battery to my Larsen (no, I'm not lucky enough to own a MasterCraft, this happens to be the best resource I've found on how to do it) but there is one thing that I have not seen clearly defined, which is with the single battery, I currently have 4 different cables plugging into each terminal... where do those 4 go when I add the second battery? Do I need to put the accessory only cables onto the 2nd deep cycle battery? Or do all 4 still plug into the main battery? Or do they go into the 2nd battery? The diagram on the first page is clear enough on how to wire the 2 batteries together, but it doesn't indicate what I do with the wires currently on the main battery.

Can anyone clarify this for me please? Thanks!
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  #224  
Old 05-24-2013, 10:56 AM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Boat: 2007 Prostar 197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilzinger View Post
I'm about to order the parts to add a second battery to my Larsen (no, I'm not lucky enough to own a MasterCraft, this happens to be the best resource I've found on how to do it) but there is one thing that I have not seen clearly defined, which is with the single battery, I currently have 4 different cables plugging into each terminal... where do those 4 go when I add the second battery? Do I need to put the accessory only cables onto the 2nd deep cycle battery? Or do all 4 still plug into the main battery? Or do they go into the 2nd battery? The diagram on the first page is clear enough on how to wire the 2 batteries together, but it doesn't indicate what I do with the wires currently on the main battery.

Can anyone clarify this for me please? Thanks!
That depends on what the four wires do, and what your intention is for the second battery. Let me start with the assumption that you're wanting to end up with a Starting Battery and a House/Accessories Battery, and that you want to be able to isolate the Starting Battery so that you can run accessories while the motor is off and still be able to start your boat.

If that's your goal then read on.

Assuming the accessories you want to run include your stereo and any amplifiers, your goal is to have these powered from the House Battery. If you have other accessories that you want to run while the boat is off, then you would relo these circuits to the second/house battery. What you will need to determine is what each of those four wires "do" in terms of providing power.

Let's start with the POS side of things:
One will go from the existing/starting battery to the starter and that remains.
One may also go to a circuit breaker/cutoff switch, which then leads to the main power block for ALL your other power needs (stereo, lights, etc.) via the fuse/breaker block. This would likely also remain "as is" but then you'll "remove" some accessories from being wired to the block and re-wire them to the house batt (see below).

As for the other two wires. . . you'll have to trace them unless you already know where they go/what they do. My guess is they are already providing power to some extras/accessories. . . or one set could be if you have onboard battery charger/maintainer.

Your ultimate goal is to wire to the house battery all the accessories (stereo, amps, lighting) that you want to use with the motor off so you're not draining the start batt.

At the breaker/fuse block, you'll need to determine what terminals are feeding your stereo/amps (if any) and pull these from the block so that you can wire them to the HOUSE battery. You WILL want to have these connections fused/protected.

I hope this helps a bit. I'll be around this weekend (well, on the boat) but if you want to talk via phone, PM me your number and perhaps I can help you.
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  #225  
Old 05-26-2013, 04:06 PM
tilzinger tilzinger is offline
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Thanks for the info, its kind of what I assumed, and yes you're correct that I'm mainly looking to use the house battery for the stereo and amp. I'm guessing the breaker/fuse block is the 90amp fuse off the starter that I actually blew last week and had to replace already

It might be fairly easy to locate which wires do what, b/c when I blew the 90amp fuse I could still turn on the bilge, blower, and raise/lower the prop, but turning the key left/right didn't do a thing, and obviously the stereo didn't work either. So there appears to be a separation in the wiring already, I just need to figure out what goes to what.

Quote:
One may also go to a circuit breaker/cutoff switch, which then leads to the main power block for ALL your other power needs (stereo, lights, etc.) via the fuse/breaker block. This would likely also remain "as is" but then you'll "remove" some accessories from being wired to the block and re-wire them to the house batt (see below).
This has me worried because when the fuse was blown I couldn't start the boat or use the stereo, so one wire on the breaker is serving both purposes it seems.
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  #226  
Old 05-26-2013, 05:13 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilzinger View Post
Thanks for the info, its kind of what I assumed, and yes you're correct that I'm mainly looking to use the house battery for the stereo and amp. I'm guessing the breaker/fuse block is the 90amp fuse off the starter that I actually blew last week and had to replace already

It might be fairly easy to locate which wires do what, b/c when I blew the 90amp fuse I could still turn on the bilge, blower, and raise/lower the prop, but turning the key left/right didn't do a thing, and obviously the stereo didn't work either. So there appears to be a separation in the wiring already, I just need to figure out what goes to what.

This has me worried because when the fuse was blown I couldn't start the boat or use the stereo, so one wire on the breaker is serving both purposes it seems.
What you might want to do is pull that 90A breaker you mention and reconfirm that the starter and stereo won't work, and that the bilge,blower, and prop operation functions. Then, try carefully pulling the unknown cables from the pos side of each batt one at a time. When the bilge/blower/outdrive stop working you will know which cable is providing power. My guess is this will be wired to the house battery and that the PO or manufacturer set it up this way so these items could be run motor off and not drain the start battery.

I would then follow this cable to see if it goes to a fuse/breaker subpanel or distribution block. That will tell you if it's set up right--each item downstream should be fused or have a circuit breaker. If just a distribution block, then that's not ideal.

As for what has you worried, I agree that the stereo MAY be wired to the primary/original--but not necessarily! The stereo head unit typically has two power wires--one that's the actual "heavy draw" power for the unit, internal amp circuits, etc, and the other is a "light draw" trigger signal. So you could have the stereo properly wired to the house batt for "in use" power, but the trigger circuit may still be tied to the boats original primary circuit. In my system, i left my head unit's trigger wire tied to the original accessory loop so my stereo can't be left on unless the boat is running or the key is in the ACC position (which ismpowered by the start batt), but the heavy power draw is wired to the house batt. In this case, if my main circuit breaker trips (start batt) my stereo will NOT work, even though it's powered by the house batt--the trigger signal just won't be present to turn the head unit on.
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  #227  
Old 06-03-2013, 07:27 PM
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sp00ky sp00ky is offline
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This maybe a good thread to clear up a potential issue. I have a blue sea battery switch installed by previous owner. However, there is only one battery. I was looking into adding a 2nd when I noticed 2 gauge positive cable from battery to blue sea but a 4 gauge from blue sea to alternator.

Is this a problem? Should I replace the 4 gauge ?
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  #228  
Old 06-03-2013, 07:30 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ky View Post
This maybe a good thread to clear up a potential issue. I have a blue sea battery switch installed by previous owner. However, there is only one battery. I was looking into adding a 2nd when I noticed 2 gauge positive cable from battery to blue sea but a 4 gauge from blue sea to alternator.

Is this a problem? Should I replace the 4 gauge ?
The 4ga is the charging lead and should be fine for most needs, unless the user just has to go nuts and put everything available in the boat.
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  #229  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:00 PM
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sp00ky sp00ky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The 4ga is the charging lead and should be fine for most needs, unless the user just has to go nuts and put everything available in the boat.
So it's not a problem for 2guage to be reduced to 4 from battery to alternator? This scenario would be a problem powering audio equipment.

Thanks for the input?
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  #230  
Old 06-03-2013, 09:06 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ky View Post
So it's not a problem for 2guage to be reduced to 4 from battery to alternator? This scenario would be a problem powering audio equipment.

Thanks for the input?
The batteries supply current to the load and that requires them to connect through heavy cables. The charging lead doesn't work as hard- think of batteries as a water tank, current as water flow, wire gauge as pipe diameter, voltage as water pressure and the alternator as a pump that keeps the tank topped off. The demand for water isn't constant over a long time because music is transient, by nature. This means that when the amps don't demand current, the alternator still tries to top off the tank. However, if larger pipe to the batteries isn't used, the pressure in the one used for topping off the tank can't keep up, even if the demand is lower.
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