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  #11  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by skiknox View Post
Well today I was going to pull the fuel pump and check the screen an figured I would put the fake lake in it first. Well lt1 ran full rpm range with me manually actuating trottle body and with the stick. The only thing I did prior to starting is making sure valve on tank was in on pos and it was but turned it in and off and couple of times. I guess I won't fully know until I get it back on the lake but it should run and diff should it?
I hate to rain on your parade but on the trailer, it can do fine but what's important is how it reacts when it's under load. I used to see the same thing and it was always a fuel delivery problem.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2013, 07:10 PM
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Well sh*t thought I might be in the clear. I guess pull the pump and check pressure is on the list again.
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:01 PM
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Well sh*t thought I might be in the clear. I guess pull the pump and check pressure is on the list again.
Leave it in place when you test pressure but do it at several RPM- the way we were taught by MC, it should be checked at Key ON/Engine OFF, Idle, 2000 RPM and WOT. You don't need to go too long at those speeds, but you should test it while someone else drives or drive while someone else tests it. Write all results down, so you have a record of it in case something changes.
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:24 PM
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Some Jim are you saying I have to pressure test on the water under load to get a accurate reading? Or where you just say running it like I did can give you a false range of full rpms
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:35 PM
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Some Jim are you saying I have to pressure test on the water under load to get a accurate reading? Or where you just say running it like I did can give you a false range of full rpms
It needs to be run on the water, in gear, at the various RPM. In neutral, running it means nothing and I used to try justifying what I found when I would call MC and they (Mark at MC, Monty & Mark at Indmar) finally got me to understand this. It's a PITA to have to take it to the water, but if the weather is good and you have the tools, parts and time, it's not a bad way to spend some time on the water. Take your anchor and a long enough rope, in case you need to replace something away from shore.
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  #16  
Old 05-03-2013, 12:28 PM
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Removed fuel pump today and screen was clean and clear. Loaned gauge from auto zone and headed to the lake to get some readings.
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  #17  
Old 05-03-2013, 12:49 PM
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2013, 05:08 PM
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Results
Fuel psi at key on 42
At idle dropped to 38
Through full rpm range 42-43
Boat runs smooth and no hesitation to 4000 rpms but that's it
Butterfly's on tb are opening all te way took filter off to comfirm
GPS speed was 41.5 wot

Thoughts???? I'm stumped
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  #19  
Old 05-03-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by skiknox View Post
Results
Fuel psi at key on 42
At idle dropped to 38
Through full rpm range 42-43
Boat runs smooth and no hesitation to 4000 rpms but that's it
Butterfly's on tb are opening all te way took filter off to comfirm
GPS speed was 41.5 wot

Thoughts???? I'm stumped
What's the diameter and pitch of the prop? If it's cupped and the pitch is excessive, it won't rev as high as it should.

Did you verify base timing by putting the ECM in diagnostic mode? A couple of degrees off can affect top end. I would put the timing light on it and check this, and leave it on so you can see total timing advance when it's being driven. If you don't see a major change in total advance, something is wrong. You should be at 10BTDC at idle and it should be rock steady. If it jumps around, there's nothing wrong, but it's not in Diagnostic Mode. Use a paper clip as a jumper for terminals A and B on the ALDL (Diagnostic Port, at the rear of the engine- ALDL stands for 'Assembly Line Data Link). Do this with the engine off, start it and manually maintain 1000RPM when you check the timing. Set it to 10BTDC, snug the distributor hold-down, re-check/reset to 10 if it moved and tighten it. If it's off by 1, don't freak out but try to hit the number. After shutting it off, remove the paper clip and cover the ALDL before running it again.

The paper clip can also be used to read codes on the check engine light.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2013, 07:10 PM
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Thanks Jim
The prop is a brand new acme 541 13x12 this is out there but would over torqing a prop nut do anything??? and all the other stuff you mentioned I didn't check that's a bit over my mechanical ability and tools. I do have a buddy that's a good car mechanic and has diagnostic equip so he might be able to help.
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