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  #41  
Old 04-16-2013, 05:52 PM
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DavidMCX30 DavidMCX30 is offline
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Thanks guys. BrianM -- great suggestions. I used many of your previous posts to get me this far, and appreciate your insights.

I am not using Super Duty, nor a wool pad.

I, too, think I am not getting the 600 scratches out. Like your suggestion on sanding same way to find root problem. But it sounds like I also need to go to wool pad (versus orange foam I am using now). Do you think I need to go to Super Duty as well? Or just take it in a step-wise fashion...better sanding, wool pad, and then if it's not what I want, try Super Duty? Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.
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  #42  
Old 04-16-2013, 05:58 PM
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Sodar Sodar is online now
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If you are not going to step it up to 1500 or even 2000, a 7424 with a foam pad is not going to get the sand marks out. If you are concerned about using a circular with wool and 3M HD Compound, step up the sanding. The finer the paper and the scratches, the easier it will be to get them out.
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  #43  
Old 04-16-2013, 06:33 PM
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mcparadise mcparadise is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianM View Post
Wet sanding 600 to 1000 to rubbing compound is fine as long as you are using a heavy cut compound like the 3M Super Duty on a wool pad. If you are using an orbital with the compound you may not be getting enough 'cut' from it.

My guess is you are not sanding out the 600 scratches completely. Make sure you sand in one direction with each grit say up and down with the 600 and side to side with the 1000 that way you can see when you have eliminated the scratches from the prior grit. Keep it really wet and rinse with clean water often.

Using that orbital with the compound I would run it at a little higher speed and you may need to make a few passes to remove all of the 1000 scratches. A circular is really the tool for this job with the compound. You are at lease using a WOOL pad aren't you?

Hitting it more with the Finesse It and wax will show the sanding marks even more. You have to get out the scratches completely from the previous process before moving on.
FWIW, regarding keeping the surface wet while wet sanding, I learned from a marine shop to put a little dish soap in a spray bottle, fill with water, and fine spray all along the way until each rinse. It works well.
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  #44  
Old 04-16-2013, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMCX30 View Post
Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.
I was nervous too but I stuck to mostly BrianM's suggestions, wool pad, and my circular varible speed DeWalt, 3M heavy cut. I too had never done it but figured I would use his suggestions before going to wet sanding. That was WAY too scarey for me. :-)

Great thread and thank you for posting your results. Some pics would be great too to go along with it. :-) I'm sure you gunna get it SHINNY!!!!
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  #45  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:08 PM
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I just did my boat with the Porter Cable 7424. I washed all the wax off of the boat. I then used the Meguiars Soft Buff Polishing pad W-8006 with the 3M Finnesse. High speed, keep it wet, do it in sections until it works in. Remove with a microfibre when dry. I then applied a carnuba wax with the Soft Buff Finishing pad W-9006. Removed with a microfibre. My gelcoat was pretty good to begin with. I bought the wool pad that fits the Porter Cable, but it is useless for a random orbital machine, from my experience.
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  #46  
Old 04-17-2013, 09:31 AM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodar View Post
If you are not going to step it up to 1500 or even 2000, a 7424 with a foam pad is not going to get the sand marks out. If you are concerned about using a circular with wool and 3M HD Compound, step up the sanding. The finer the paper and the scratches, the easier it will be to get them out.
This! You are never going to get the 1000 scratches out unless you are using a heavy cut compound with wool.

That orange foam with your Porter Cable doesn't have near enough cut.
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  #47  
Old 04-17-2013, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMCX30 View Post
OK guys, I need some assistance. I'm a rookie at refinishing boat. I purchased Porter Cable 7424 and have gone with 3M line of products -- boat cleaner, rubbing compound, Finesse-It II, and past wax. I watched video on AutoGeek website to learn how to use tool (still haven't gotten complete hang of it but getting better). I also read a lot of posts on this website about wet sanding...with the goal being to avoid it if not needed.

Boat has moderate amount of oxidization but some pretty good scratches. Silver flake finish with white above and below. I tried using rubbing compound only but wasn't getting results I wanted, especially on scratches. So I did some light wet sanding over entire section with 600, then 1000, then rubbing compound. It looked good on test spot so I moved on, but when I look at certain angles, I am seeing my sanding marks big time, especially on the white sections of the boat. I've done about a quarter of the boat at this point and, while at first glance boat looks new in sections I've done, not pleased with results upon closer inspection.

Looking to some of you experts to help diagnose my problem(s) and help figure out path forward.

-- Do I need to go from 600 to 800 then to 1000? I was going straight from 600 to 1000. Do I need to use 1200 or even 1500 or higher grit...or does the rubbing compound pick up where the 1000 grit leaves off?
-- Am I using too much rubbing compound? I feel like I am using more than what I should. Pad is getting compound caked on it. Just saw something here about a cleaning brush. I ordered one bottle of rubbing compound for 23' boat, but at this rate will need at least two.
-- Do I need to have more patience with process? Will hitting it twice with Finesse-It II and wax hide some of my sanding marks, or do I need to get those completely gone before moving to Finesse-it stage?
-- What is a realistic amount of time that this entire process should take? I don't mind hard, long work, but have a bout 20 hours so far and worried that I am taking far too long without good results.
-- What would it cost to take it to someone else to have it done? : )

Any ideas and suggestions are welcomed! I also plan to call Auto Geek to get their input.

Many thanks!
X3 for a wool pad, you are cutting hard now so you need a hard cutting pad!
Only 20 hours? If we were paid hourly for doing this we could retire. ----even at a dollar an hour
And way too much compound, I run a single line down the side of the boat right out of the bottle. I work all the material in, then repeat, then repeat, then repeat.
Good news is once you get it back keeping it up is easier. I only spend a day or so a year buffing the boat now, my initial restoration was over 100 hours!
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  #48  
Old 04-17-2013, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMCX30 View Post
Thanks guys. BrianM -- great suggestions. I used many of your previous posts to get me this far, and appreciate your insights.

I am not using Super Duty, nor a wool pad.

I, too, think I am not getting the 600 scratches out. Like your suggestion on sanding same way to find root problem. But it sounds like I also need to go to wool pad (versus orange foam I am using now). Do you think I need to go to Super Duty as well? Or just take it in a step-wise fashion...better sanding, wool pad, and then if it's not what I want, try Super Duty? Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.
David, I was freaked too at first to use a circular, but like physcobilly said, don't be. I was running the same dewalt he had and I really had to put extreme pressure on the gelcoat to see any real drastic cutting. i was definitely expecting it to come right off with wool pad and circular, but it took several passes and more pressure than i anticipated. I would imagine you could screw up a car's paint pretty easy with a circular, but I'm a firm believer that you have to try really really really hard to screw up gelcoat. FYI, I was using the super duty compound too.
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  #49  
Old 04-18-2013, 12:20 PM
cdh11 cdh11 is offline
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What setting should you have the circular polisher on to do the cutting? Some products say 1000-1200 rpm but what speed setting is that roughly?
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  #50  
Old 04-26-2013, 08:54 AM
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76S&S 76S&S is offline
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Guys, I need a little help. I need to buff the back of my boat which has faded. Since I've never done this I thought I would practice on the PWC first. If it gets screwed up, it doesn't matter near as much.

So, I went to do a small area on the pwc last night and the compound almost immediatly turns black. So I'm left with a black buffing pad and this black residue on the pwc that can only be removed by using more compound on a clean rag and buffing by hand.

I'm using 3M compound and a foam cutting pad.

HELP!
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