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  #31  
Old 04-04-2013, 09:00 PM
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holms holms is offline
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check out the new Meguiar's DMCKIT5, comes with correction compound and wax, 4 - foam/microfiber 5" pads...
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:32 PM
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LaRue LaRue is offline
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For those of us who apply wax with a machine, do you buff out by hand or use a bonnet?
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:41 PM
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holms holms is offline
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bonnet or soft foam
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  #34  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:49 PM
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SP Maristar SP Maristar is offline
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Size:  37.9 KBhere is what i bought and used last summer. I was very pleased with the results.

Larue - i used the polisher to apply Collinite and hand buffed off. Collinite comes off much easier than auto paste wax.
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  #35  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:50 PM
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SP Maristar SP Maristar is offline
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Size:  48.2 KBbetter pics of the pads
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  #36  
Old 04-05-2013, 09:09 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I just use the grey finishing pad and it turns our great every time. I'll also typically go over the panel and edges with a micro fiber cloth to make sure all the wax has been removed and to double check the panel to make sure the results are as expected.
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  #37  
Old 04-05-2013, 12:44 PM
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Hogwild Hogwild is offline
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I removed the wax by hand since the collinite came off so easy. Like previous poster said it's definitely not as tough as car wax.
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  #38  
Old 04-16-2013, 02:20 PM
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DavidMCX30 DavidMCX30 is offline
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OK guys, I need some assistance. I'm a rookie at refinishing boat. I purchased Porter Cable 7424 and have gone with 3M line of products -- boat cleaner, rubbing compound, Finesse-It II, and past wax. I watched video on AutoGeek website to learn how to use tool (still haven't gotten complete hang of it but getting better). I also read a lot of posts on this website about wet sanding...with the goal being to avoid it if not needed.

Boat has moderate amount of oxidization but some pretty good scratches. Silver flake finish with white above and below. I tried using rubbing compound only but wasn't getting results I wanted, especially on scratches. So I did some light wet sanding over entire section with 600, then 1000, then rubbing compound. It looked good on test spot so I moved on, but when I look at certain angles, I am seeing my sanding marks big time, especially on the white sections of the boat. I've done about a quarter of the boat at this point and, while at first glance boat looks new in sections I've done, not pleased with results upon closer inspection.

Looking to some of you experts to help diagnose my problem(s) and help figure out path forward.

-- Do I need to go from 600 to 800 then to 1000? I was going straight from 600 to 1000. Do I need to use 1200 or even 1500 or higher grit...or does the rubbing compound pick up where the 1000 grit leaves off?
-- Am I using too much rubbing compound? I feel like I am using more than what I should. Pad is getting compound caked on it. Just saw something here about a cleaning brush. I ordered one bottle of rubbing compound for 23' boat, but at this rate will need at least two.
-- Do I need to have more patience with process? Will hitting it twice with Finesse-It II and wax hide some of my sanding marks, or do I need to get those completely gone before moving to Finesse-it stage?
-- What is a realistic amount of time that this entire process should take? I don't mind hard, long work, but have a bout 20 hours so far and worried that I am taking far too long without good results.
-- What would it cost to take it to someone else to have it done? : )

Any ideas and suggestions are welcomed! I also plan to call Auto Geek to get their input.

Many thanks!
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  #39  
Old 04-16-2013, 02:58 PM
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psychobilly psychobilly is offline
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Man, can't help ya now, but sounds like you didn't need to wet sand... I had heavy oxidation on my ole 20 year old boat and I only did the 3M 3 step process.... It turned out GREAT...

Hopefully someone can come back here and help you out on what to do. Seems like I have seen guys on here wet sand time and time again with these types of results you're talkign about....
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  #40  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:48 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Wet sanding 600 to 1000 to rubbing compound is fine as long as you are using a heavy cut compound like the 3M Super Duty on a wool pad. If you are using an orbital with the compound you may not be getting enough 'cut' from it.

My guess is you are not sanding out the 600 scratches completely. Make sure you sand in one direction with each grit say up and down with the 600 and side to side with the 1000 that way you can see when you have eliminated the scratches from the prior grit. Keep it really wet and rinse with clean water often.

Using that orbital with the compound I would run it at a little higher speed and you may need to make a few passes to remove all of the 1000 scratches. A circular is really the tool for this job with the compound. You are at lease using a WOOL pad aren't you?

Hitting it more with the Finesse It and wax will show the sanding marks even more. You have to get out the scratches completely from the previous process before moving on.
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