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  #21  
Old 03-15-2013, 07:42 AM
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Snipe Snipe is offline
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
For future reference I would recommend a brass drift or punch if you are going to use the hammer method to extract the pump shaft. Using a softer metal drift will have a lesser chance to damage the shaft when compared to a SS drift.
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:41 PM
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homer12 homer12 is offline
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I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer12 View Post
I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:53 AM
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homer12 homer12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.
That's correct. I agree with you. Need to use brass or something softer than stainless.
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:58 PM
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pbgbottle pbgbottle is offline
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i just ordered a new one yesterday. so today while i wait for it to be shipped i took the old one apart .just wacked shaft, it slid out , didn't mess with pulling bearings. popped the side cover off the accessible bearing. threw some greae back in it .popped the side cover back on bearing.
put the shaft on a piece of wood. put the body on the bearings put a piece of wood over the end and gave it a couple wacks and she slid home .no need for special tools .unless u are pulling the bearings from the shaft. there isn't much to these things .i wouldn't hesitate to ever rebuild one of these , theres nothing to them. no biggie. i most likely will find some bearings for this old one and keep it for a spare. no need to blow a couple hundred dollars. if ya can change a damper plate , or your old manifolds and risers . to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake.



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  #26  
Old 08-18-2017, 08:50 AM
Teakind Teakind is offline
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Hello,

I know this is an old thread but I see many people still ask the same questions.

I just pulled the RWP from my 1989 Indmar 351.... She has been a good one - no doubt. I ordered a new pump but as pbgbottle said in 2013, ".... to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake".

However, when I took this 28 year old pump apart (first time), the impeller was followed by the seal, the brass washer, then the o-ring, from front to back. In the Indmar advisory SV2004-05 attached in this thread (and other places), in step 6 and 10 of the rebuild, it puts the brass washer between the impeller and the seal (in front of the o-ring).

What have you guys done?

I am sorry this keeps coming up but it seems to be a popular question on all boards.

Thank you for any advice. Gotta get back out there.
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  #27  
Old 08-18-2017, 09:53 PM
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The Indmar advisory is correct...The brass washer goes between the impeller and main seal, should fit up into the brass housing a bit, out of the impellers way, think of brass washer as a splash shield, to help keep the impeller water pressure off the seal. People forget to put the brass washer back N by removing the impeller and not realizing a brass washer is stuck to the impeller, impeller gets discarded with the old brass washer. By the way the brass washer is pump specific, very thin, with a specific OD to fit correctly. You can buy them. maybe a buck fifty online.
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  #28  
Old 08-18-2017, 10:23 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
The Indmar advisory is correct...The brass washer goes between the impeller and main seal, should fit up into the brass housing a bit, out of the impellers way, think of brass washer as a splash shield, to help keep the impeller water pressure off the seal. People forget to put the brass washer back N by removing the impeller and not realizing a brass washer is stuck to the impeller, impeller gets discarded with the old brass washer. By the way the brass washer is pump specific, very thin, with a specific OD to fit correctly. You can buy them. maybe a buck fifty online.
...........I got one online for $156, impeller included, delivered right to the door. Plug and play but it's fun to rebuild as well.

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  #29  
Old 08-19-2017, 09:40 AM
Teakind Teakind is offline
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Thanks for response, Fullpass. Sounds like the voice of many experiences.

That's the way I will put it back together then. I did buy several of the thin washers from Indmar so I am all set.

I know new pumps are inexpensive, waterlogged, and I have one in hand, but sometimes I like to dance with who brung me. For some reason I am driven to repair rather than to replace - can't change a tiger's stripes I guess. With a rebuilt original and the new one on standby, we should be covered.

This old Prostar will be on the water in a couple hours - she has been a pleasure to own. I'm taking this boat with me when I go.

Thanks again
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