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  #91  
Old 03-06-2013, 11:59 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
No its not the angle, its not square, but Im not really sure why? And Im not sure what effect this will have if any on the function?

Maybe you could enlighten me? On of the other things Ive noticed is that the butterfly valves, the primary ones move very freely until I want to close them, then they seem to bind up a little somewhere. Im pretty sure that is an issue that needs to be addressed.
If the accelerator pump arm isn't square with the bolt it contacts with, it could slip off the edge of the bolt and get hung up. I would remove the arm and housing and slightly bend the arm to get them to line up better. Be sure not to cause a bind in the arm/housing.

As I recall, you removed the throttle blades and had issues with the screws. If you did not get the throttle blades perfectly square when you re-installed them, they are likely offset slightly and binding on one side of the throttle body. You should be able to see this with careful inspection. Just a matter of loosening the screw a little and getting it perfect. Take your time to get this right as you don't want a situation where this could bind and not close.
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  #92  
Old 03-07-2013, 10:37 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If the accelerator pump arm isn't square with the bolt it contacts with, it could slip off the edge of the bolt and get hung up. I would remove the arm and housing and slightly bend the arm to get them to line up better. Be sure not to cause a bind in the arm/housing.

As I recall, you removed the throttle blades and had issues with the screws. If you did not get the throttle blades perfectly square when you re-installed them, they are likely offset slightly and binding on one side of the throttle body. You should be able to see this with careful inspection. Just a matter of loosening the screw a little and getting it perfect. Take your time to get this right as you don't want a situation where this could bind and not close.

So as Ive been working through this, Ive been told there is supposed to be teflon bushing on the throttle shaft. Im 100% sure when I removed it that there was no bushing. How can that be? Am I missing something?

The plates were lining up wrong, I'll keep playing with it.
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  #93  
Old 03-07-2013, 10:50 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
So as Ive been working through this, Ive been told there is supposed to be teflon bushing on the throttle shaft. Im 100% sure when I removed it that there was no bushing. How can that be? Am I missing something?

The plates were lining up wrong, I'll keep playing with it.
As I recall, there is a bushing inside the throttle body with seals at either end of the shaft. Typically these aren't disassembled this far as the throttle body can be cleaned sufficiently with a can of carb cleaner and brushes. I would give the guys at Holley Tech a call.

Same thing with throttle blades are not normally removed unless there is an issue.
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  #94  
Old 03-07-2013, 11:16 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
As I recall, there is a bushing inside the throttle body with seals at either end of the shaft. Typically these aren't disassembled this far as the throttle body can be cleaned sufficiently with a can of carb cleaner and brushes. I would give the guys at Holley Tech a call.

Same thing with throttle blades are not normally removed unless there is an issue.
Hide sight is 20/20....
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  #95  
Old 03-28-2013, 12:58 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Well I got a heck of a lot done. My dad came down to help me out.

I rebuilt the carb, figured out that not all of the carbs had teflon bushings. It thus makes sense why I didnt see any when I pulled the throttle shaft. SWGA Boater, Id be willing to give yours a whirl. But it is very pleasing to get it done yourself.

We carpeted the front floor panel before installing the motor. Im not sure if I had to do that or not. However, I didnt want to take the chance with the motor in place and not being able to install that panel. I think I actually will be able to remove it fairly easily with the motor mounted anyway.



I found a local metal shop that had a fork lift. I paid them to get the motor into the boat.



Here is the motor being loaded on the trailer. Sucker is heavy!





Here it is, about a year after the previous owner removed it. Back in place, kinda. It still needs to be aligned to the propeller shaft. Take your time, and then using a little bit of muscle, the bolts should align. It makes sense to mount the bolts up side down, with the nut on top. In these pictures they are not arranged in this manner. But that was only temporary.



Heres the electrical process. A lot of the wires were corroded, so they had to be replaced. Crimp lugs were installed, with heat shrink tubing. Colors of the wires dont really match to any diagram, but I dont really care. That doesnt matter much.

We ended up not utilizing the 8 prone harness connectors, which were corroded. Instead, we just attached the wires to the terminal block panel, or whatever you call that thing. The starter relay was initially replaced, but it was found to be faulty, and the old one seems to work just fine. Ill replace it in the future if need be. A new 50 amp breaker was wired into the system.



This is an image of the breaker mount. Its one of the 5 brackets I ended up fabricating. You can also see the terminal block, on it is the relay mount



Raw Water Pump Bracket



Alternator Bracket. The way the Alternator was mounted when I got the boat was incorrect. Here is an image of the Indmar Bracket that was supposed to be present. They are no available anywhere, so I decided to build one.



I also built a bracket for the external balast resistor and fuel/water separator.



I installed the water strainer, and installed all coolant hoses. Fuel Lines were installed.



Basically, everything on the motor was set up to fire it up and a new ignition switch was installed. We initially had an issue with the distributor. The internals needed to be cleaned, and then we had a spark. Once we figured out the timing, which will still be adjusted a little, we had a power!

I had to replaced battery cables which were heavily corroded on the inside. The new ones are well sealed and should last for a very long time.

With all this work, I also managed to get the old cutlass bearings out. Those things are a PITA. It seemed like a little hack saw worked the best. This way you dont damage the strut. Just take your time, and cut two slits in the bearing, and it slides out fairly easily.



Here you can see my tools and the 2 cut bearings.



And there is the new bearings installed. Makes sure you get the correct sized bearings as they change if you have a powerslot transmission or not.



This is just an overhead view of the motor. Feels good to have this part of the process almost complete.

As a final treat, heres a link to the video of the things running! I love the sound!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BbUgdffYKM

Ignore the extra cap on the distributor, I used the old cap to hold the new cap down. I need to source new hold down clips to keep my cap in place.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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  #96  
Old 03-28-2013, 11:08 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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looking awesome!
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  #97  
Old 03-28-2013, 12:49 PM
freehugs freehugs is offline
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Boat: 1991 Prostar 190, 351w Holly 4160, Edlebrock performer
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What a sweet sound. It's like music!
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  #98  
Old 03-28-2013, 01:12 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Wow, amazing progress on this thing! Sweet.
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  #99  
Old 03-30-2013, 10:17 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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So I worked on aligning the motor, I did so by removing the seal, and putting the new shaft in place, I attached the coupler to the tranny. Once I had it pretty dang close, I put the seal back on, and went on attaching the coupler to the shaft. I ran into an issue, the threads on my shaft must be too long, the staff touches the input shaft on the transmission and the couplers don't touch. What's the best way to fix this? Shave the shaft? Washers as spacers?

Also I started testing my gauges, tach, temp, volts, work well. The oil pressure gauge is off, I think the pressure is probably fine, but it reads beyond 80. Does an automotive oil pressure sensor differ from marine? That might be the issue.

Also working on getting the tuning situated. Can someone explain where all the breather hoses are supposed to go?

Last edited by nkorep2; 03-31-2013 at 10:02 PM.
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  #100  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:02 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Here's an update.

Rear tow hooks installed with a 1/4 stainless steel backing plate.



Rudder box installed, 5200 marine sealant was used. New grease fittings installed on steering cable. Still need a bracket for the steering cable. Here's before and after. I just noticed that i attached the cable on top, and it was on bottom originally. I'll fix that.





I cut out backing boards for interior pieces. They are at a local upholstery shop. Im going with a simple/functional upholstery job. It wont look original at all.



New Fuel tank sending unit. I still am waiting for the fuel pickup tube that I ordered last week.





Installed throttle control assembly, with newish cables that I pulled from the other boat I got with the trailer that I originally was wanting.



Here she is sitting on the trailer.





I also decided to convert the distributor. Im not getting a consistent spark, so I have had trouble keeping the boat running. I did get it to idle at 800-900 rpm . Im so ready for it to be done.
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