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  #11  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:14 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beg4wake View Post
Yeah I was thinking of a heat lamp but was worried about a fire too
I have a simple work lamp from Lowes in my engine compartment just for good measure. Been there several months with a 40W bulb in there.
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:23 PM
Beg4wake Beg4wake is offline
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Good point Jeff....I may go ahead and take off...Take the boat to the lake and run it a little bit, circulate things a little bit anyway and get some fuel ran through the lines...then come home and winterize it properly, even if it only covers me the next few days...
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  #13  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:24 PM
Beg4wake Beg4wake is offline
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We really don't have but about a week or so of cold weather left but I guess better safe than sorry
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:41 PM
Beg4wake Beg4wake is offline
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I think I've decided to go home and drain the water out of the boat. Scratch the antifreeze. I've also ordered one of these.... http://www.boatownersworld.com/xtrem...emeheaters.htm .... just so that if I do wanna go put the boat in the water during the day in the early season I don't have to worry if it gets below freezing during the night. Thanks for the advice all!!
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  #15  
Old 03-19-2013, 02:09 PM
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If it were me...

I've always gone with the theory that if it doesn't have water in it, it can freeze. I would drain the block - that is not that hard to do. Then proceed on from there. Disconnect the hose running from the T-stat housing to the water pump. Then disconnect and dump any other lines from the t-stat that have low points that water would settle in. Disconnect the line running to the raw water pump. Disconnect the hose going to the oil cooler. Bump the starter a couple of times and you will get some more water out.

If you have a heater and shower, you need to disconnect those lines and blow the water out. Since they are small lines and small units, they would freeze first. A light bulb in the engine compartment is not going to help the heater core that is up front. The heater is a pain to get all the water out because the hoses to/from it have low spots in the middle of the boat. If you blow air through you will at least get the water out of the heater core and that should be sufficient. I like to dump a little pink AF down the hose and blow it through the heater core just to be safe.

I'd spend the time getting all the water out of it. Running it today or in two weeks from now will not matter much at all.

If that boat is outside tonight, add windchill to the temp.
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  #16  
Old 03-19-2013, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beg4wake View Post
antifreeze really isn't that hard. Just pull the hose off the bottom of the RWP, clamp it around my clear hose section, stick that in a bucket of antifreeze and start the engine. I'm coming from a Moomba though and I'm not 100% sure where all the drain points are on this specific boat or what it takes to to it all. The Moomba had 2 plugs in the bottom of the block that the knock sensors hooked to for the main drains....is that about the same on this boat? (plus hoses)
Two plugs in the block (one each side), and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds/risers.
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2013, 03:45 PM
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Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
Two plugs in the block (one each side), and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds/risers.
One side of the engine will likely have a knock sensor not a plug, just remove that and make sure water pours out of both sides of the block. Disconnect hose as stated above. You should pull the impeller after cranking the engine over to drain water from that area as well.

Where are you in VA, Lake Anna?
Nice boat.....Welcome to the X-star club!
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2013, 03:50 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
If it were me...

I've always gone with the theory that if it doesn't have water in it, it can freeze. I would drain the block - that is not that hard to do. Then proceed on from there. Disconnect the hose running from the T-stat housing to the water pump. Then disconnect and dump any other lines from the t-stat that have low points that water would settle in. Disconnect the line running to the raw water pump. Disconnect the hose going to the oil cooler. Bump the starter a couple of times and you will get some more water out.

If you have a heater and shower, you need to disconnect those lines and blow the water out. Since they are small lines and small units, they would freeze first. A light bulb in the engine compartment is not going to help the heater core that is up front. The heater is a pain to get all the water out because the hoses to/from it have low spots in the middle of the boat. If you blow air through you will at least get the water out of the heater core and that should be sufficient. I like to dump a little pink AF down the hose and blow it through the heater core just to be safe.

I'd spend the time getting all the water out of it. Running it today or in two weeks from now will not matter much at all.

If that boat is outside tonight, add windchill to the temp.
I assume you realize that the windchill doesn't make the air temp colder, just cools things off quicker. The way you worded it made it sound otherwise.
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2013, 03:53 PM
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Definately drain it. I wouldn't worry about antifreeze.
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:50 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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hmmm you have an LY6...

i thought those were all closed cooling?
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