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  #21  
Old 03-15-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
For future reference I would recommend a brass drift or punch if you are going to use the hammer method to extract the pump shaft. Using a softer metal drift will have a lesser chance to damage the shaft when compared to a SS drift.
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:41 PM
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I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by homer12 View Post
I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2013, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.
That's correct. I agree with you. Need to use brass or something softer than stainless.
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:58 PM
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i just ordered a new one yesterday. so today while i wait for it to be shipped i took the old one apart .just wacked shaft, it slid out , didn't mess with pulling bearings. popped the side cover off the accessible bearing. threw some greae back in it .popped the side cover back on bearing.
put the shaft on a piece of wood. put the body on the bearings put a piece of wood over the end and gave it a couple wacks and she slid home .no need for special tools .unless u are pulling the bearings from the shaft. there isn't much to these things .i wouldn't hesitate to ever rebuild one of these , theres nothing to them. no biggie. i most likely will find some bearings for this old one and keep it for a spare. no need to blow a couple hundred dollars. if ya can change a damper plate , or your old manifolds and risers . to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake.



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  #26  
Old Today, 08:50 AM
Teakind Teakind is offline
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Hello,

I know this is an old thread but I see many people still ask the same questions.

I just pulled the RWP from my 1989 Indmar 351.... She has been a good one - no doubt. I ordered a new pump but as pbgbottle said in 2013, ".... to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake".

However, when I took this 28 year old pump apart (first time), the impeller was followed by the seal, the brass washer, then the o-ring, from front to back. In the Indmar advisory SV2004-05 attached in this thread (and other places), in step 6 and 10 of the rebuild, it puts the brass washer between the impeller and the seal (in front of the o-ring).

What have you guys done?

I am sorry this keeps coming up but it seems to be a popular question on all boards.

Thank you for any advice. Gotta get back out there.
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