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  #101  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:46 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Back on the thread jack question


The boat rolls 4k plus seems to bounce off rev limit and takes 11 seconds to hit 30 mph and winding it out.

The second vid shows the engine falling off at 4+k and tops out -40 mph. Peaks at 4800


I am very curious that the boat is struggling so hard to get to 30 but is reving high rpm.


Before y'all flame me

1) Explain why the engine is screaming and takes forever to get to 15-30 mph. Is this a low HP engine?

2) instead of just dropping the throttle to the floor can the boat be driven normal rolling into the throttle and the prop staying somewhat even with rpm all of the way to 36mph.

3) did this just start doing this or is the boat new to you.

4) is the correct prop on the boat

5) what is the factory rev limit

6) why at 30 mph to wot does the boat creep up to speed.



Rpm turning (screaming) and boat not accelerating is a sign of slipping.

It looks like a tranny problem since you are spinning 4k and the mph starts increasing extremely slow. My boat will be up to 36mph in 6-7 seconds. 11 seconds we will be well over 40 possibly 46-47 mph on GPS

I would check tranny fluid color, smell, level, etc

Next I would evaluate the proper use of the boat under 4k rpm

If the tranny and engine perform correctly then agree there is obviously other issues.


A TPS that has a bad spot can confuse the ECM and can either lean out the engine or flood it. And there are other sensors that will cause the engine to bounce at any rpm.



My main concern is the fact the engine screams and the boat doesn't want to come up to speed.

Is it full of ballast, weight, etc there is no reason for the engine to take 11 seconds to come up to speed.

4k rpm and keeping it while accelerating is not a sign of bogging down. Engine is spinning strong and has weak acceleration.... Then we have 4-4800 rpm bouncing. Are we hitting rev limit???? If yes then you do not have engine problems.

If your rev limit is not hitting then you more than likely have a sensor failure.


Again boat has poor acceleration with high rpm. I need an explanation for this.
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Last edited by Kyle; 03-12-2013 at 02:15 AM.
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  #102  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:04 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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the fact that the speedo on the left stays at zero even though the wind and water sounds seem to say that the boat is moving and the fact that the right one never moves, it seems that they are clogged/malfunctioning.

We need more info from the poster. Is your left speedo accurate? What was your throttling? When the motor is screaming are you at WOT or less?
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  #103  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:48 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Originally Posted by Scot View Post
Back to topic,

I put the strut on my garage floor with a tri-square on each side and measured from each sqaure to the center of the tube. It's cocked centered in the front and cocked a good 1/4" to the port side in the back. Which explains why the shaft rides on the starboard log wall. I have three options as I see it, and shimming with fiberglass, washers, etc is clearly not one of the best.

1. Grind down the front port side of the base to reposition the tube to a centered position. Of course it will never be in its stock position this way

2. New strut

3. Take this one to a machine shop and have them true the tube up and plane the base.

Each one has its advantages and disadvantages, I like #2 and #3 the best but maybe thats OCD?If its between those two its a simple cost comparison.

Also, is 5200 definitely the best adhesive to use here? As much as I would like to think this strut will be on there forever, I'm not gonna bet my life on it. Came off pretty easy, but not sure if its been off before.
Perhaps it is just the angle of the picture, but it looks like your measuring may be flawed by the garage floor not being true (no surprise there). Did you check to see if the measurements for A & B are the same? It does appear to be offset to the port side slightly though.
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  #104  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:21 AM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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Originally Posted by jwp1504 View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a 2000 X Star that slips/misses as soon as it goes above 3600rpm. I have added videos on youtube to show what the tach is doing.

Am i having the same problem?

At first i thought it may have been dirty fuel, fuel filter or fuel pump??

This video is from idle...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjUXfXdh09Q

And this one is from 3200rpm up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4WTp9-h7U
I wish we could start a new thread, but... Does anyone else hear the loud knocks during the rev drops?
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  #105  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:28 AM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot View Post
Back to topic,

I put the strut on my garage floor with a tri-square on each side and measured from each sqaure to the center of the tube. It's cocked centered in the front and cocked a good 1/4" to the port side in the back. Which explains why the shaft rides on the starboard log wall. I have three options as I see it, and shimming with fiberglass, washers, etc is clearly not one of the best.

1. Grind down the front port side of the base to reposition the tube to a centered position. Of course it will never be in its stock position this way

2. New strut

3. Take this one to a machine shop and have them true the tube up and plane the base.

Each one has its advantages and disadvantages, I like #2 and #3 the best but maybe thats OCD?If its between those two its a simple cost comparison.

Also, is 5200 definitely the best adhesive to use here? As much as I would like to think this strut will be on there forever, I'm not gonna bet my life on it. Came off pretty easy, but not sure if its been off before.
How about 2b. Get a long bar and some heat and try to bend it into alignment. Then work on the angle. If you fail, #2 is still available. A new strut might need angle adjustment too. A belt sander is a good tool for removing a thin wedge of material
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  #106  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:37 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is online now
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I would be careful about using the base of the strut to judge how off center the body is. Ive seen some very sloppy castings that would give you misleading numbers. I would also make sure youre measuring off of something perfectly flat, as someone pointed out. Got granite countertops?

Remember that being 1/4" over on the body wouldnt require a 1/4" adjustment on the base. Probably closer to 1/8". Still, thats a fair amount to compensate for, so you may want to get it closer before trying to make fine adjustments (grinding, washers, etc). See if you can have a shop bend it back for a reasonable amount. If not, then a new one is a consideration... but remember that even new ones may need some massaging to line up to the log (the one I altered was brand new).
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  #107  
Old 03-13-2013, 01:49 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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I know my measurements are not accurate, but we aren't talking 1/16", this thing is bent! Stand above it, close one eye, and its clear. Tried to get a good pic to show it but couldnt get one that proved my point. Going to the machine shop tomorrow morning. Cant imagine why they cant straighten a piece of brass but if they say no its option 2b. Will lag bolt it to a couple 4x4s and use my hands and feet, get it as close as I can.

Apparently this is not a simple replacement, skidim.com says these older struts can vary, my best bet may be marinehardware.com with all dimensions on their worksheet? Might be pricey, I dont know. Any ideas of other places to look? I am sure I can bend it if need be, I just trust the equipment in a machine shop more than my make-do garage methods. Biggest concern is keeping the tube round under pressure.
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  #108  
Old 03-13-2013, 02:00 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Perhaps it is just the angle of the picture, but it looks like your measuring may be flawed by the garage floor not being true (no surprise there). Did you check to see if the measurements for A & B are the same? It does appear to be offset to the port side slightly though.
That picture is just to show my method (rough at best, I know), not the bend. I know its not a perfect method, but good enough to tell when it's this far off.
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  #109  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:31 PM
jwp1504 jwp1504 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot View Post
the fact that the speedo on the left stays at zero even though the wind and water sounds seem to say that the boat is moving and the fact that the right one never moves, it seems that they are clogged/malfunctioning.

We need more info from the poster. Is your left speedo accurate? What was your throttling? When the motor is screaming are you at WOT or less?
Hi Guys,

I have the boat in gear in both videos, so i am accelerating. The fist video is from a still start (speedo doesn't work in this video but i am moving), and the second video is accelerating from 3000rpm.

It is not the rev limiter.

The reason for the high rpm is barefooting. I have owned the boat for 6 months and put 20 hours on it, i have barefooted behind it numerous times (and the day before this started happening) and it has never done this before.

The speedo is temperamental, sometimes it works, other times it doesn't.
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  #110  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:32 PM
jwp1504 jwp1504 is offline
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Originally Posted by Table Rocker View Post
I wish we could start a new thread, but... Does anyone else hear the loud knocks during the rev drops?
There are very loud knocks when the revs drop. Again, i have no idea what this is!
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