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  #11  
Old 11-03-2012, 02:30 PM
catamount catamount is offline
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Well, I have tried EVERYTHING except for removing the intake manifold. I am going to winterize it as-is and deal with it in the spring.

That said, I am nervous about breaking the distributor shaft in the spring. I think my best is removing the intake manifold in order to drive the distributor off. Can you guys tell me how hard/easy it is to remove the manifold?

Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2012, 02:52 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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How about a heat gun at the mounting point? I'd aim more for the intake then the distro.
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Spray starting fluid down the dipstick tube and drop a match to pop the distributor up like seating the bead on a tire???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRJ4M76Wur8


Seriously, have you tried any gentle lifting motions with a prybar? Good luck with this.

Way better here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=uRetDNdrBNM
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2012, 03:51 PM
catamount catamount is offline
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Originally Posted by TheOffspring View Post
How about a heat gun at the mounting point? I'd aim more for the intake then the distro.
From everything I've been told, heat is the enemy here. Heating the intake undoutably cause the dist to expand (aluminum will expand even more quickly than the cast intake) and get even more lodged.

I used CRC freeze off which is supposed to help shrink the aluminum to break the bond; I got it down to 19 degrees but haven't noticed a difference.

My intake is pretty ugly; peeling rust and what not. I would not be against pulling it in order to get the dizzy out. I am just wondering how involved it is.
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TheOffspring View Post
I think he filled his pants with that one...
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  #16  
Old 11-03-2012, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
From everything I've been told, heat is the enemy here. Heating the intake undoutably cause the dist to expand (aluminum will expand even more quickly than the cast intake) and get even more lodged.

I used CRC freeze off which is supposed to help shrink the aluminum to break the bond; I got it down to 19 degrees but haven't noticed a difference.

My intake is pretty ugly; peeling rust and what not. I would not be against pulling it in order to get the dizzy out. I am just wondering how involved it is.

I would think some expansion and contraction would be worth a try. I don't think you could make it worse by trying. Heat does amazing things to metal.
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  #17  
Old 11-03-2012, 05:23 PM
T-Rager T-Rager is offline
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I've encountered this problem many times over the 50 years I've been working on cars, especially small-block Fords. I recommend using a rolling-head pry bar to apply a stout upward force on one side of the distributor housing while simultaneously rapping the opposite side of the housing with a plastic mallet. Don't be afraid to be a little aggressive.

Another option is to use two rolling-head pry bars to apply diametrically upward forces on the distributor. Alternate applying increased force on one side and then other until the distributor pops loose.

Good luck.
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  #18  
Old 03-07-2013, 07:36 PM
catamount catamount is offline
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Bump for any new ideas. Spring is coming and I will need to address this as soon as the wrap comes off.

Any and everyone suggestion is welcome.
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  #19  
Old 03-07-2013, 09:24 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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I assume you have been bathing the base of the dist. in penetrating oil. I would think that if you continue to whack the dist horizontally in 4 directions and by prying up repeatedly, that you should be able to free this.
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2013, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
I would think some expansion and contraction would be worth a try. I don't think you could make it worse by trying. Heat does amazing things to metal.
Like he said^^^ if anything the heat will help with the penetration of lubricants.
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