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  #51  
Old 02-28-2013, 02:41 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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Um, I'm not sure where I read this but I soak my friction disk in trans fluid overnight before I did the assembly. I did, however, install them dry to check the clearance for the snap ring.
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Last edited by CantRepeat; 02-28-2013 at 06:35 PM.
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  #52  
Old 02-28-2013, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Um, I'm not sure where I read this but I soak my friction disk in trans fluid over night before I did the assembly. I did, however, install them dry to check the clearance for the snap ring.
We used to do that with automotive transmissions years ago when I did that kind of work. Keeps the frictions discs from premature wear if operated dry.
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  #53  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:50 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Thanks for the input guys. I called Basic Power today and spoke with the tech. He told me the particular snap ring does not need to snap firmly into place since the spring rides against it. This is what I was hoping to hear, but wanted to be sure. He also said that the snap rings on the backside of the clutch assembly (the ones to set clearance) were not used on the 10-17. Thats the first I have heard of that as everyone seems to advocate carefully checking clearance. He said just put it back together and I should be good to go. Since there were no snap rings there when I took it apart I will take his word. This is the second time I have spoken with him and he seems to know these things well.

So I have the clutch/ring gear assembled, gaskets and seals replaced on the reduction unit, and ready to go once I get the following: a new snap ring for the input shaft/front bearing, a cooler, a set of reverse springs since I lost one in disassembly, and a new oil baffle. I am replacing the baffle because the old one had a main tab that was ready to break off and I dont want loose metal flopping around in this thing. I also replaced the stupid $30 coupling nut because the book says I should. Hope to drop it in next week.
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  #54  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:55 PM
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  #55  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:18 AM
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Sounds like its going together.

Now you see why I say order everything after it is disassembled. I had to go through a few orders and when you are waiting on parts then everything gets put on hold.


If I were you I would be putting a pump in it now too. Yes they are not cheap but not worth the money of having to remove the tranny a second time.

I'm sure you are saving tons of cash and are hopefully enjoying a few beers along with a fun project.
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  #56  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:37 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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I'm into it just under $600 so far, much better than the lowest price I got of $1200 just for the basic overhaul on the bench (I pull it).

What I have purchased (prices include shipping)

169.95 Overhaul kit from Basic Power
114.17 Oil Cooler from Michigan Motors
179.40 Pump from Michigan Motors
14.95 new cable clip on eBay (old one was rusted/seized)
45.90 new coupling nut and snap ring, Basic Power(wrong snap ring, book says use new nut)
67.20 snap ring and springs (right snap ring, wanted to change all springs if I change one)

Kyle, I took your advice and changed the pump. I would hate to put it back together just to pull it apart again.
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  #57  
Old 03-04-2013, 12:54 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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A few more issues I need to tackle during this installation.

Alignment is the big one. After my stringer project I had my local marine shop drop the motor back in and "align" it. I use quotations because it took two hands to turn the prop. I downloaded a list of instructions posted on here and written by a guy named Ken that seems to be pretty well written. I think I should probably run through his whole process of aligning motor to strut and then motor to shaft. Probably should pull the shaft and do strut bushings too.

One thing leads to another right?

Also considering packing issues. Three options: 1) good old repack 2) Gore Tex repack- cheap and as long as it doesnt wear out my shaft worth a shot 3) dripless system. How nice to keep water out of the bilge altogether. It seems they are pretty sensitive to misalignment? Maybe not a good idea for a boat rebuilt from the ground up by one guy who is an optometrist by day and backyard hillbilly mechanic by night?
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  #58  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:25 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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Been fighting all night with the shaft. First the prop was stuck on like crazy. And it was off last season. It took a puller, heat, and a hammer on the puller to finally get it off. The coupler is another story. I got it to budge about 1/16" and broke two pullers in the process. Seriously considering taking a saw to the shaft and ordering a new one. It is definitely worn at the packing and at the strut. I will buy the biggest jaw puller I can find tomorrow and give it another shot. If I can get it apart I will definitely take it to a machine shop and have it checked for runout. As I said, one thing leads to another. Seems like the time to do it though.
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  #59  
Old 03-06-2013, 01:39 AM
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There is no need to buy a puller for the coupler and shaft.


Take the nut off of the shaft.

Put a socket between the two couplers.

Put the coupler bolts back on both coupler sides.

Tighten the two couplers together and the shaft will press out of the shaft coupler.



Now you may have to use a shallow socket and move to a deep socket to finally get the shaft free but I know it will work. Maybe heat the coupler if needed and wear se good gloves.


I have always removed the couplers this way. It works and saves money on a tool that will break or never be used again.
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  #60  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:36 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Do what Kyle said and press the coupler off the shaft... that is the proper way to do it.

If the puller you used bent the flange of the coupler, or if you have serious (measurable) wear on the shaft, then consider replacing the whole thing with a dual taper ARE.

Hopefully the tranny rebuild works out for you. Most people end up goofing something up (there seem to be a few tricks not covered in the manual) and end up pulling the trans a second time for a professional rebuild. That should only cost in the $700-800 range, so that $1200 quote you got is way out of bed.
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