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  #21  
Old 02-25-2013, 01:47 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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In my 2003 the front and back bars are both solid tubing. There is no opening into the elliptical piece that connects them. There are small cutouts in the bottom of the elliptical tubing where you can see that the back bar is solid. From the pictures, it doesn't look like your tower has the cutouts, but I would assume the bars are both solid.


If it were me, I would just buy the connector kit from wetsounds and use the old style connectors that connect to the back of the speaker instead of through the clamps. That is what is shown on my old pro80s above. That way you can have the wires come out of the front bar and the speakers mounted on the back one.

Another option would be to route the wires up the back tube instead of the front. You would have to have a disconnect where the leg connects to the base tube if you drop your tower. You might also need a disconnect at the break in the back leg. You would also have to drill holes at the base of the back leg to get the wires from one tube to the other and drill holes at the break in the rear leg to get the wires across the jump. Here's a crappy picture of that option.


Or you could just mount them on the front bar and learn to live with the extra 60s it takes to open the bimini.
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  #22  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:34 AM
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i made a little progress last night. the elliptical bar that connects the two main tubes does have a hole in it. its not very big but it should pass the wires. i ended up drilling an extra hole on both ends of the elliptical bar so i could both see and manipulate the crossing. i'll snap a few pics next chance i get. my plan is to tap the left over holes and plug them with ss hex pipe plugs. i did that to my windshield where i removed my original mirror mount. it turned out pretty well.
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:54 PM
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i thought i'd post some pics. you can see where i added the holes in the front and back of the elliptical cross member just infront of the tow point/light on the tower. i don't see how this routing of the wires could be done with out those "pilot" holes. for you guys that do this on a regular basis, i have new respect for what you have to deal with. if i had to do it over, i'd forget the front bar all together and just run the wire down the back leg and then the entire length of the horizontal arm like is drawn in a previous post. i was trying to avoid drilling more holes, but i hindsight, i think it would have been easier. on a positive note, the REV8s with the swivel mounts clear my bimini with no touching at all. even with the regular mounts, i think the REV10s would have kept the bimini from traveling through its natural arc. i also really like the speaker socks that i bought from Earmark with my other stuff. one of my goals with the swivel mounts was to be able to remove the speakers easily. the neoprene socks have nice handles built in that allow me to carry both speakers securely in one hand while i climb out of the boat to store them inside. another nice touch is the rubber cover that protects the connection pins on the part of the mount that stays attached to the tower.
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  #24  
Old 03-02-2013, 05:37 PM
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nice.....


I'm shopping for tower speakers and inside speakers now.these threads have been very helpful.
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