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  #81  
Old 02-18-2013, 11:45 AM
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Sodar Sodar is offline
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Look into using the pre-fabbed plastic brake line. You can build a kit for approximately the same price and they will never corrode and are quieter in the box frame than the metal brake line.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/THERM...rake-Line-228/
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  #82  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodar View Post
Look into using the pre-fabbed plastic brake line. You can build a kit for approximately the same price and they will never corrode and are quieter in the box frame than the metal brake line.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/THERM...rake-Line-228/
I added this 2 years ago.... works great.
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  #83  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:16 PM
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Those look pretty interesting. I never did like all the rattling on the outside of the tubing. Can I get those into the axle tubes to cross over to the other axle calipers or do they still need to be on the outside? The main line I pulled out was surrounded by some type of foam covering. Probably kept things more quite but also trapped in moisture longer.....so the plastic line seems like a good option.

Either of you two have any pics of your install?
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  #84  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:23 PM
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I still ran hard lines outside the axle tubes to the outboard calibers. I never thought of running them inside, but I guess it would be doable.
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  #85  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodar View Post
I still ran hard lines outside the axle tubes to the outboard calibers. I never thought of running them inside, but I guess it would be doable.
I did not change those...they did not rust out. It was the internal one from actuator to coupler that I changed. From coupler to drums (in my case) line was still good.

I have the parts in the kit I bought waiting to be installed.
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  #86  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post

I have the parts in the kit I bought waiting to be installed.
Don't we all.... I bought those brakes in November and finally found a nice weekend to install (58 on Saturday). Woke up this morning to an inch of snow.....

I'll have to look at it more closely to see if a route inside tube is doable. If not, I'll stick with the outside at least for the axle crossings.
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  #87  
Old 02-18-2013, 03:05 PM
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Should sticky this, great detailed writeup on doing wheel bearings and brakes.
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  #88  
Old 02-18-2013, 03:32 PM
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Yes, this is a great thread with tons of good pics. Job well done!
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  #89  
Old 02-18-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Lumbergh View Post
Should sticky this, great detailed writeup on doing wheel bearings and brakes.
stickied...
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  #90  
Old 03-05-2013, 10:22 AM
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OK, I've looked into new lines and it seems to be a slippery slope. I'm good with the mainline being the Thermo-Plastic....that's a pretty easy decision. However, I need only about 12-13' instead of the 19'. Is the Thermo Plastic bendable enough to double up inside the frame rail?? I don't want to pinch it.

What I thought would be easy was to just use Stainless Steel for the rest of the system. What I've found is that the SS is harder/more brittle than the standard coated steel and the flaring is different. If I went SS, I would most likely get a spool of it and then cut/flare as needed.

The standard tubing flares at 45 degrees and actually double backs onto itself for the lip.

Whereas the SS tubing is at 37 degrees and an extra backing sleeve needs to be added as part of the connection. On top of that, the two can't be intermixed as they won't seal properly.

Finally, I can't use the nice, CHEAP tube benders and flaring tools from the local auto parts store for the SS tubing. I'll need the nicer equipment to do a proper flare.

With all that said, it looks like my only option is the Thermo Plastic main and then the coated steel. Unless I'm missing something.
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