Long Distance Boat Towing

[AZDave]

It is a fairly new trailer. Sealed bearings. Will look at jacking points, and a jack. Thanks everyone.

[GT500 MC]

Originally Posted by Sullivan

If you have a tandem axle trailer its a good idea to take some wratchet style tie downs. If you blow a tire you can always just remove both wheel/tire combos from that axle and use the straps to snug the axle up under the trailer until you can get new tires.

Sullivan - great point on that. Never thought about it. I do a 1k mile trip each way every summer with a tandem axle. One spare. If I had to use the spare and then had another tire go bad, is that the recommended procedure--to pull the other tire on that axle and just run "single" with two tires? I'm sure I'm not the only one but sorry for the slight threadjack OP.

[CruisinGA]

I don't tow my boat much, but I do tow a lot of other trailers...

IMO bearings and spare tire + jack, lug wrench are the #1 concern. These are by far the most likely items to leave your trailer immobile on the side of the road.

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by GT500 MC

Sullivan - great point on that. Never thought about it. I do a 1k mile trip each way every summer with a tandem axle. One spare. If I had to use the spare and then had another tire go bad, is that the recommended procedure--to pull the other tire on that axle and just run "single" with two tires? I'm sure I'm not the only one but sorry for the slight threadjack OP.

Anyone have a picture of this "fix"?? I've heard about it but have never seen it in action....

[Dylan]

I'm assuming you're towing to Pacific trailer from your previous posts. Spare tire and jack sounds good. Have fun towing in CA as towing speed is 55. People go way over the speed limit, and even faster in the desert areas. Keep to the right and be proactive. I have done that drive several times you'll be fine.

[zsqure]

Think ahead about lifting one of the axles. I've done the axle lift a few times with a skid steer trailer. Too much weight behind the axle will result in trailer sway and possibly put you in the ditch. Choose the correct one which will not cause your trailer to sway.

[Sodar]

Originally Posted by GT500 MC

Sullivan - great point on that. Never thought about it. I do a 1k mile trip each way every summer with a tandem axle. One spare. If I had to use the spare and then had another tire go bad, is that the recommended procedure--to pull the other tire on that axle and just run "single" with two tires? I'm sure I'm not the only one but sorry for the slight threadjack OP.

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Anyone have a picture of this "fix"?? I've heard about it but have never seen it in action....

You can do it, but need to make sure the axles are rated for it. IE. it does not work well on a 5,000lb boat with tandem 3500lb axles. On my 190 with leaf springs, I could do it no problem and had no issue with the tires rubbing the fenders, but on my 197 with torsion axles, the tire gets within about 1.5" of the fender at a stand still. I'd be afraid that a good bounce on the road would push the tire right into the fender. You mileage may vary...

[FrankSchwab]

OK, I'm going to be a bit contrary.

Your most likely minor problem is losing a seat cushion out of the interior. On mine, the rear center cushion gets a jet of wind at/under it from under the windshield and it has considered leaving the boat once or twice (but fortunately never has). One advantage of trailering with a cover is you don't have to worry about this. If you have a trailerable cover, take Sullivan's suggestion of Saran Wrap for the gunnels and put the cover on - it'll keep things a lot cleaner, drier, and help keep wandering hands from exploring the stuff in your boat.

I drag my boat all over the state of Arizona without any kind of gravel guard, and I've never noticed any kind of rock ding or even mark (lots of dead bugs, but that's a different matter). I simply wouldn't worry about this issue.

Your most likely major problem is going to be a flat or blowout. Make sure that the jack you take can get under the axle with a flat tire, and (as others have suggested) that you have a lug wrench that fits the trailer lugs. On my single-axle trailer, there is no known jack in the world that will get under the axle with the tire flat, and the jack I have won't lift the frame high enough to get the wheel off the ground. Consider bringing along enough foot-long lengths of 2x6 that you could create a ramp with them, place them in front of the trailer wheel, and then pull the trailer up on them to create enough space under the axle that your jack will fit.

Second major possible problem will be bearings. After the first 30 miles and then every time you stop for gas, put your hand on the hub. It'll be warm, perhaps uncomfortably so (120 degrees perhaps), but if you leave any skin behind or end up with blisters, somethings terribly wrong and you need to fix it before you go anywhere else. It's likely either brakes or bearings, but you don't want to pull it any further until you find out which and resolve their issues. Buying one of the inexpensive infrared thermometers like this will keep your hands clean (and unblistered) when you do this check.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS use rear tie-downs, and make them tight. If you don't believe me, simply drive behind an untied boat on a rough road - the boat will be bouncing 2" off the bunks and slamming back down. You want the boat and the trailer to be a single unit moving together, not two independent units bashing each other. The boat isn't going to bounce off the trailer going down the road unless you're in an accident, the straps are there to prevent that pounding - and to keep the boat and trailer together in case of the aforementioned accident.

Don't drive too fast - higher speeds cause drastically higher tire temperatures and likelihood of failure. Make sure the tires are inflated to max sidewall pressure (cold), drive the speed limit or below, and your day will be a lot less stressful.

[mikeg205]

Originally Posted by FrankSchwab

OK, I'm going to be a bit contrary.


Second major possible problem will be bearings. After the first 30 miles and then every time you stop for gas, put your hand on the hub. It'll be warm, perhaps uncomfortably so (120 degrees perhaps), but if you leave any skin behind or end up with blisters, somethings terribly wrong and you need to fix it before you go anywhere else. It's likely either brakes or bearings, but you don't want to pull it any further until you find out which and resolve their issues. Buying one of the inexpensive infrared thermometers like this will keep your hands clean (and unblistered) when you do this check.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS use rear tie-downs, and make them tight. If you don't believe me, simply drive behind an untied boat on a rough road - the boat will be bouncing 2" off the bunks and slamming back down. You want the boat and the trailer to be a single unit moving together, not two independent units bashing each other. The boat isn't going to bounce off the trailer going down the road unless you're in an accident, the straps are there to prevent that pounding - and to keep the boat and trailer together in case of the aforementioned accident.

Don't drive too fast - higher speeds cause drastically higher tire temperatures and likelihood of failure. Make sure the tires are inflated to max sidewall pressure (cold), drive the speed limit or below, and your day will be a lot less stressful.

X2 on checking hubs. I always inspect the bearings before a long trip... Takes all of 20 minutes....and also to the temp test on the hubs..

Regarding not tying down the boat...their are liability issues it your boat leaves your trailer and it was not properly secured.

[TxsRiverRat]

I'm not planning to tow my boat without something like this:

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/p-228426...iliateid=10510