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  #11  
Old 01-06-2013, 07:23 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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So I think I'm close to having a purchase list.

Wetsounds WS420
Wetsounds SD2
Wetsounds REV10 (pair)

I'll keep the Rockford Fosgate amp in place and let it keep driving the sub and the cabin speakers.

The last step for me is to get all the wire/etc I'll need.

Currently, the power wire to the amp in the starboard helm is 10ga. It measures to about 15-20 feet from the battery switch in the starboard locker. I included a pic of the current setup. The 10ga wire comes off the battery switch, it looks like it goes back to the battery, but it just meets up with the black mate wire and heads off toward the amp over the fuel tank and up the vent hole. There is currently a 25 amp fuse in line. The 40amp fuse is for the power to the main helm.

So, what gauge wire and what level of fuse do I need for the new setup. Should I leave the 10ga wire in place and run a separate power wire to the SD2 or should I run one large wire to the amps and then split the power with a power block?

Furthermore, is my current dual battery setup adequate for what I am planning? We don't really run the radio a bunch with the motor off. Usually only run the radio with the motor (02 LTR) off to fill ballast or to make a "pit stop" for the kids.

Thanks again for all your help.
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2013, 03:16 AM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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10ga power wire and 25a, Yikes!

RF recomends 80a - http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...nch4Ch-MAN.pdf
WS rd2 recomends 60a at 4ohm (your current plan) and 107a at 2 ohm (what you would do if adding a second pair)

At the low end, 140a total is pushing the max recomended amperage for 4 ga at 150a at 20'.
As I recomended earlier, bite the bullet and go with a single run of 1/0. Resistance will be less which will give better voltage, less heat and room to expand. The next logical addition would be a sub amp which would definiately put you over the top, buying more wire, fuses etc and wasting more time with an additional run. Just do it right the first time.
1/0 can be difficult to get a good crimp. Either buy the wire from KnuKonceptz and take it to a stereo shop to have it terminated correctly (its only 2, one pos one neg) they will prob charge $5 each. Or order from here - http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Grade%20Wire/ Have them do the ring end and it will be right and tight.

DO NOT mess with an amp kit. It is full of worthless junk and not enough negative wire. A straight run from the switch and from ground is needed (usually equal lengths)
Knu 1/0 wire - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KFX0BK
4 ga from distribution block to amps. Get a general idea where things will mount to estimate total wire then add a couple feet. Its much better to have a little slack or some left over than be short. I am not a fan of straight and tight wire. It looks pretty on the initial install but down the road, things change, an amp blows or needs upgraded and now you are 8" short because the wire has to go to the other side of the new amp....

Dont use glass agu fuses. They have poor connections and are inferior to the mini ANL.
2 of these - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-23
one positive, one neg for power distribution from primary power to amps. Order 1 with 3x80 amp and 1 with 3x120amp.

1 of these - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNI-11 fused less than 18" from battery end. 180amp option

Knu will ship them all with fuses but order an extra 5 pack of 60amp. Fuses are cheap in bulk but you need to carry them as few places will stock the higher power parts and a shop that does will usually bend you over for them.
You will then have plenty to make what ever combo you need.

Ring terminals - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...%20Accessories
at least 2 pos/neg. the install should only require one each but things happen....

Another battery would be ideal but not necessary if you dont play long with engine shut off.
DO install a dual bank charger and plug in each night if possible. Batteries will last MUCH longer.

Make life easy on yourself and get a pair of cable cutters. Harbor freight has a cheap pair http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...ter-40507.html
or you can find others for about $25 at most hardware stores.
They cut the big cable smoother than your usual pair cuts 18ga speaker wire. Trust me, it beats hacking your way though with regular wire cutters!

Use di-electric grease on all bare wire and fuse connections to minimize corrosion.

Rock On!

Last edited by bsloop; 01-07-2013 at 03:18 AM.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:33 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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thank you for the detailed write up. i've used genuinedealz a few times before and they have been great. quick question, when using the power blocks or the inline fuse from knuknocepz, you don't need any special termination other than stripping the end and putting the little threaded piece over the end and screwing it in? thanks, again.
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafo9 View Post
thank you for the detailed write up. i've used genuinedealz a few times before and they have been great. quick question, when using the power blocks or the inline fuse from knuknocepz, you don't need any special termination other than stripping the end and putting the little threaded piece over the end and screwing it in? thanks, again.
I put some solder the ends of the bare wire.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2013, 02:13 PM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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Nothing special, just strip the specified amount, dont deviate too much.

The Knu "kompression" fittings are better than the standard "stick it in and turn allen bolt" design.
They push though then mushroom over before the sleeve is inserted and tightened against the block. This gives greater contact area and wire is really locked in. I have never had loose wire / pull out problems with Knu's design unlike the standard allen screw.
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  #16  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:35 AM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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do you guys think a ring terminated 1/0 will attach to my battery switch with the other wires already there?

also, how would i handle the ground wire? the ground terminals of the 2 batteries (one in each locker) are currently connected with standard battery cable. which battery would i attach the 1/0 ground to and do the battery grounds then need to then be connected with 1/0 cable?

thanks.
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  #17  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:09 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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J,

Looking at the pic above, I feel you will be able to connected your 1/0 cable on the C post of the switch.

Ground: Connect the stereo/amp 1/0 trunk line GND to the closest battery. Shorter the better. The current flow through the original battery cable will still be the starter draw and alternator current, where as the stereo will be pulling primarily off the batteries. What size cable is the GND linking the two banks? The gauge if this cable would be more important to the stereo. If both banks are grounding to the block, then I would consider the size of both cables. It never hurts to upgrade a cable, but its not always necessary.
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  #18  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:30 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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#2 battery is in the starboard locker and it's GND is connected to the GND on battery #1 in the port locker. The size of the wire is 2 AWG. The only battery grounded to the block is the #1 battery in the port locker.
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  #19  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:16 PM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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The 2ga should be acceptable if you are running the wd2 at 4ohm. 2ohm might be pushing it but the shorter run would help.

Should be plenty of room on the post, especially since the old 10ga will be removed.
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  #20  
Old 01-31-2013, 11:17 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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glad to hear i can leave the 2ga ground alone. i'm going to reuse the 10ga. i'll pull it out of the port helm and run it to the starboard helm to power the WS-420. thanks for all your help.
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