confirm

[Flatwaterfooter]

Did not fog but did spray engine. On Lake Winnisquam

[Flatwaterfooter]

Yes i did

[kyfooter]

Songs good overall. I like to run the engine until I'm certain it's up to normal temp to make sure the thermostat opens. I then drain the entire engine block, manifolds, and heater before running the antifreeze through. A 350 block should take just over 3 gallons.

When sucking the antifreeze through, I remove the flame arrester and fog the engine (doing so will want to stall the engine, so keep the RPMs up a bit). I also then remove each plug and fog. Remove the coil wire and crank a few seconds to distribute the fogging oil.

I keep the battery accessible all winter, and charge it for 24 hours or so once/month.

[BallBushing]

Get that unopened beer can someone left in the port side storage area

[GoneBoatN]

Originally Posted by Flatwaterfooter

Removed battery. This is first season with the MCX always dry blocked my LT1 so justthe want toto be sure-

I'm curious why you did not just dry block the MCX?

I have an MCX and dry block it myself for winterizing. I would add that you flip the ignition over a couple of times after draining the block and risers, then proceed to the hoses. Also, I've found that the hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the CATs (mine is a 2010 with CATs) will have a little water in them so they need drained as well as the hose running to the water pump - you said you drained all hoses so you covered that as well. It also helps to shift the engine around a little to get all the water out; do this by either driving around on the trailer up and down some hills (best) or raise and lower the trailer jack a few times. Since you antifreezed after dry block I would think you will be OK. I too will add that I'm not a mechanic and this is just an opinion...

[GoneBoatN]

Originally Posted by Flatwaterfooter

Did not fog but did spray engine. On Lake Winnisquam

For me, I do not fog the MCX through the intake. I remove the spark plugs, spay some fogging oil in each cylinder and turn over the engine a few time using a remote starter. Then replace the plugs. I disable the fuel pump and the HVS ignition just to be on the safe side even though I'm using a remote starter.

[Flatwaterfooter]

Originally Posted by GoneBoatN

I'm curious why you did not just dry block the MCX?

I have an MCX and dry block it myself for winterizing. I would add that you flip the ignition over a couple of times after draining the block and risers, then proceed to the hoses. Also, I've found that the hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the CATs (mine is a 2010 with CATs) will have a little water in them so they need drained as well as the hose running to the water pump - you said you drained all hoses so you covered that as well. It also helps to shift the engine around a little to get all the water out; do this by either driving around on the trailer up and down some hills (best) or raise and lower the trailer jack a few times. Since you antifreezed after dry block I would think you will be OK. I too will add that I'm not a mechanic and this is just an opinion...

Was told to dry block the LT-1 because of the aluminum. Run the run antifreeze in the mcx to help prevent rust. Maybe wrong maybe right just going with what I have read and heard.

[east tx skier]

Originally Posted by GoneBoatN

For me, I do not fog the MCX through the intake. I remove the spark plugs, spay some fogging oil in each cylinder and turn over the engine a few time using a remote starter. Then replace the plugs. I disable the fuel pump and the HVS ignition just to be on the safe side even though I'm using a remote starter.

This is correct. Do not fog a dry intake like you would a throttle body injected or carbureted engine. Disabling the fuel pump is the way to do it if you don't turn the engine over manually by hand. Otherwise, you're diluting the fogging oil with fuel.

To the OP, hopefully you ran that RV antifreeze at full strength. It is not meant to be diluted.

[Flatwaterfooter]

yes poured it into a bucket and sucked into the engine did not dilute at all. I was glad to read it should only take about 3-3.5 gallons because I know as I moved the boat it did dump some more out the exhaust.

Thanks for all replys sleeped much better last night.

[CantRepeat]

I didn't see it but you should have brought the motor up to operating temperature while running it on water and then sucked up the anti freeze.