Rebuilding my xstar stereo

[wakefirst]

Need some help guys!

I have a 2007 mastercraft xstar. My husband bought me the 7.7 speakers for the front of the boat for my Christmas present. I still need the 2 10" subs and tower speakers not to mention the amps.

My questions ...

1. What size amps (stock) does this boat come with?
2. What speakers do the amps push?

I know this boat had 2 amps, but I do not know the size in which they are nor which speakers they pushed. So I need some help re building it back to stock.

Thanks boys!!!!

[MLA]

Wakefirst,

I'm reaching deep into my memory, and I want to say that back in 07, the factory in-boat setup would have been 6 in-boats and a 10" Infinite-Baffle (free-air) sub all powered by the JL M6600. If i am reading your post correctly, you boat only has 4 in-boats in the main cabin, no sub and no amp. is this correct? Knowing all the components that need to be driven makes making an amp recommendation easier.

Strangely enough, Ive seen a pair of the OEM JL tower speakers piggy-backed off the same amp along with those in-boats speakers.

[elliott]

im pretty sure all mastercraft boats that are like 2003-2004 up come factory with 6 7.7 jl inboat speakers. 4 in the cockpit and 2 up front. i dont know about the x star but i know the x45s and 80s come with a factory free air jl 10.

your boat factory should have 2 600/6 jl amps
one amp runs all the inside speakers except the sub
the other amp runs 4 factory tower speakers the jl 7.7 and they bridge the 2 xtra channels left over for the factory sub. atleast thats how my x80 was done.

[snork]

03-04 were Clarion, 05 and on all were JL and all XStar's had one 10" free air sub and six speakers throughout. XStar only came with one amp unless you ordered tower speakers. I dont remember the JL amp rating per amp

[bsloop]

Just trying to understand it situation.
2007 xstar and all audio has been gutted?

Dont get too hung up on going back exatly "stock" This is not a 63' vette with matching numbers.
Consider it a gift you dont have to deal with the restrictions of what the mfg cut the best deal on and install what will sound good to you and meets your needs.

You have to work backward. Decide on all speakers, then use amps that provide the necessary power, then wire approprately and mount extra batteries if your goal is to play more than 2 hrs coved. Dont forget an onboard charger to plug in at the end of the day.

The JL 7.7 sound good and locations are sized for them so go ahead and go back for easy install.
Subs and enclosures are one area a professional can make a huge difference in sound. You are spending the $$$ on JL 7.7, match it with good sound vs the compromise of free air. I would look at Rockford or Kicker.

Wet Sounds on the tower. A pair of 10" or bang it with a 3 some if you are looking for serious tower sound.

Use separate amps for highs and subs. ARC's KAR, Rockford Power or Alpine PDX.

Why not JL for the subs or amps? Do a comparative listen. IMO, JL's attempt at total accuracy restricts sound output, especially in an environment that is not about total accuracy. Not to mention the premium of the JL name.
If the $$$ are rolling up to fast for you, this first place I would cut back are the JL in-boats. In-boats have the least bearing on overall sound when compared to subs and tower. You can go in with MTX or others that cost less.

[Greenster]

Having an onboard charger is a great idea. Thanks!

[EarmarkMarine]

Wait just a minute. A little misinformation here.
It all depends on your personal expectations. One size doesn't fit all.
If you are building a 'donk' style system for Hip Hop then all you need is bass thump and high frequency sizzle for balance. Sure, then in-boat speakers are minimized.
But if you are actually looking for sound quality while cruising at low speed or at rest 'in' the boat then it's hard not to prioritize the wrap-around in-boat coaxials that handle eight of ten octaves. That's where you'll find all the musical contrast in most forms of music. You can't have plausible bass without excellent midbass contribution from the coaxials and no coaxial has better midbass than an in-boat IB JL Audio 7.7". You can always drop back from the JL M series to the JL MX series. So I would highly recommend staying on course with the JL Audio 7.7s unless you are building a very biased and singular type of system.
In JL's pursuit of musical accuracy they do not limit subwoofer output. I'd like to read a coherent technical explanation on that one....even by a competing woofer company. However, there are certain woofers that purposely limit the bandwidth in order to create more peak output over a narrower range. That's the trade-off. Not just accuracy versus output...but accuracy AND bandwidth versus peak. And that trade-off in itself is fine for some people who are after a 'percussive' and monotonous bass that is described as 'thump', 'slam', 'boom', and 'hit'. Of course you can manipulate the JL Audio sub in much the same manner and increase it's peak output depending on the enclosure design.
I'm not discouraging any particular system path if it's what the individual wants. But alot depends on the music type and what your personal taste/lifestyle/usage is going to be.

David