Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-22-2012, 03:35 PM
lazyade lazyade is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Boat: '92 190 Prostar and the new project '05 X Star (Indmar 350 MCX)
Location: UK, Southeast
Posts: 72
Tips for engine alignment

Can anyone share a few tips on aligning an engine? We have to install a new engine (as the previous owner seemed to have water ingestion). We've managed to free up the engine mountings whilst the engine is out of the boat but getting it all aligned again looks a bit daunting.

Also I don't understand the stern engine mounts (those that bolt to the engine block as opposed to the transmission), at the bottom of the mount there appears to be a lock nut but this sticks out below the line of the actual clamp which looks like it'll be a problem as there is no recess in the boat for this nut).

Any tips appreciated.

Boat's a 2005 XStar with Indmar 350 MCX

Thanks
__________________
'92 190 Prostar 260hp Indmar.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-22-2012, 03:38 PM
mikeg205's Avatar
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
Posts: 11,112
Send a message via Skype™ to mikeg205
Yes, read this... and watch this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc
Attached Files
File Type: doc Shaft Alignment Procedure.doc (36.0 KB, 318 views)
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-22-2012, 03:45 PM
Kyle's Avatar
Kyle Kyle is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Boat: 93 Prostar 190
Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS
Posts: 3,182
Personally I would scratch or use a sharpie and mark the exact location before freeing up the motor mounts.

Then free them

Then install the new engine.

I took my DD engine and tranny out. Replaced the entire engine and set it back in. Doing this did not require adjusting. I guess I'm lucky but when I set the engine into the boat and bolted it down the shaft fit the coupler to the tranny perfectly. No binding, or off center issues.

I also replaced the block so I was shocked that there was no adjustment needed.

So loosen the mounts to where they can be adjusted. Do not adjust them though from where they where when you removed the engine. Install engine. Tighten or loosen the adjuster as needed for the shaft to align freely mating perfectly. Tighten set but.
__________________
Rollin' Gangsta Style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-22-2012, 03:54 PM
lazyade lazyade is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Boat: '92 190 Prostar and the new project '05 X Star (Indmar 350 MCX)
Location: UK, Southeast
Posts: 72
Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Personally I would scratch or use a sharpie and mark the exact location before freeing up the motor mounts.

Then free them

Then install the new engine.

I took my DD engine and tranny out. Replaced the entire engine and set it back in. Doing this did not require adjusting. I guess I'm lucky but when I set the engine into the boat and bolted it down the shaft fit the coupler to the tranny perfectly. No binding, or off center issues.

I also replaced the block so I was shocked that there was no adjustment needed.

So loosen the mounts to where they can be adjusted. Do not adjust them though from where they where when you removed the engine. Install engine. Tighten or loosen the adjuster as needed for the shaft to align freely mating perfectly. Tighten set but.
Thanks for the tip, unfortunately we sent our mounts off to be shot blasted (as they were quite rusty). Some "helpful" person dismantled them, so we have no reference point now
__________________
'92 190 Prostar 260hp Indmar.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-22-2012, 04:15 PM
lazyade lazyade is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Boat: '92 190 Prostar and the new project '05 X Star (Indmar 350 MCX)
Location: UK, Southeast
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Yes, read this... and watch this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc
MikeG205 - brilliant, thanks. A forum at it's best!
__________________
'92 190 Prostar 260hp Indmar.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-22-2012, 04:47 PM
mikeg205's Avatar
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
Posts: 11,112
Send a message via Skype™ to mikeg205
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyade View Post
MikeG205 - brilliant, thanks. A forum at it's best!
now all I need is a mind meld with JimN, Kyle, and J.mccreight -
Attached Images
 
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-22-2012, 08:09 PM
GoneBoatN's Avatar
GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Boat: 2010 X-15 w/MCX
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,789
Attached is the set of instructions I like to use. They were originally posted by someone else on this forum but I forget which thread I dug them out of - credit goes to the original poster. Both seem to address the procedure from the direct drive point of view. So you have to translate a bit to v-drive.

So referring to the attachment in this post "first part is to make certain that the engine is parallel and co-linear with the strut", I like to think of as aligning the shaft coupling to the transmission coupling in the up-down-left-right to make the bolt holes align - this is the best way I can describe it. Another way to think if it is you are setting the engine so that when you mate the couplings you are not pulling the shaft in any direction. During this part you are moving the part of the engine (transmission mounts) that is closest to the couplings.

During the "Second Part" of the procedure you are making the surfaces of the couplings "co-linear" and you are adjusting the mounts (engine block mounts) furthest away from the couplings.

Adjusting the up-down is easy. Adjusting left-right is more difficult. A lot of times the engine just wants to move back. So I have a wood clamp that I trimmed down so that it will work in the engine compartments on the motor mounts. I use the clamp such that it is on the bolt on the mount attached to the hull; the other end is on the bracket attached to the engine. The clamp is not able to move the engine but rather keeps it from moving back. Then when I bump the engine with the 2x2 it moves right along. Also, during the second part of the alignment process and wanting to move the engine in the horizontal direction, I only loosen 3 of the 4 mounts one one time so that I'm pivoting the engine.

Others have posted that they have used come-alongs to move the engine. I've also used ratcheting straps but they work best on the transmission mounts. I also put marks on "slide bars" of the mounts using a sharpie - this gives you a reference so you know how much you moved the engine when bumping it with the 2x2.

With practice I've found it easy to do.
Attached Files
File Type: doc PROPSHAFT_ALIGNMENT-15676.doc (31.0 KB, 348 views)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
engine alignment

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:12 AM.