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  #61  
Old 12-15-2012, 07:07 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Too bad on the water... ... but not a surprise..right?
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  #62  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:29 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.
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  #63  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:03 AM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.

Hello Kyle

Did the compression check , first 2 were 40 and 60psi ,so no point in going any further down that route, removed the throttle body only to find loads of rust , so will pull the engine to bits .
Thanks for the advise Kyle , helped make my decision on the correct way to repair .

Pictures coming later.

Kevin
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  #64  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:41 AM
Michigan Tim Michigan Tim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?
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Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste.
OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats
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  #65  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Michigan Tim View Post
About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats
Hey, this site wouldn't be as interesting if there weren't people with opinions.

Once it comes to money and toys, well that's one deep rabbit hole!
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  #66  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:39 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Bad weather and Christmas shopping again has stopped play ,
Got the exhaust manifolds off , took the complete engine loom out , I would like to go through this and check all the plugs connectors etc .
Distributor not looking to good bit worse ,also a better image of a very poor throttle body ,freed off the throttle flap but needs a very good clean up , check injectors and , TPS and ISC operation .
Just need an hour or so to pull the inlet manifold and heads .
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  #67  
Old 12-17-2012, 04:25 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Finally got the heads removed , wow what a mess , half of the cylinders have mud in them .
Heads look ok at a quick look , but need to clean them , crank and flat check.
Next step is to remove the gearbox and then pull out the block .
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  #68  
Old 12-17-2012, 04:27 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Another question ,
are the automotive engine gasket sets ok to use for this marrine application .

thanks

Kevin
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  #69  
Old 12-18-2012, 12:09 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.
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  #70  
Old 12-18-2012, 01:36 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.

It's not that standard gaskets won't work, it's just that they may not work AS LONG! See http://marineengineparts.com/shopsit...l/page567.html

Automotive engines operate in a controlled water environment, with coolant that has rust inhibitors. With open cooling on a boat, you don't really know what kind of water is circulating through the engine, even if its non-salt water.
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