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#11
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Nice write-up Kyle.
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- Peter TIRE & WHEEL SALES email:tiresplease@gmail.com SPECIAL PRICING CONTINUES Two 14" Aluminum wheels $195 Two 15" Aluminum wheels $215 Four 14" Aluminum wheels $370 Free Freight within lower 48 Steel and galvanized wheels available. |
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#12
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2002 Blue Prostar 197, 0 Flex Tower, Perfect Pass, and The Preditor-ADHD Skier I'm pursuing my lifelong quest for the perfect, the absolutely driest martini to be found in this or any other world. And I think I may have hit upon the perfect formula :
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#13
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tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.
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James 1989 MasterCraft TriStar 190 SE Last edited by j.mccreight@hotmail.com; 12-15-2012 at 06:27 PM. |
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#14
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#15
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I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.
Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc. |
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#16
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I take it his boat is real stiff?
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#17
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I used it as a punch and pry bar to open up the rudder arm off the rudder. Warranty never asks anyway. Oh well
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#18
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Correct. I found that out after putting everything together it was worse. The grease fitting can not be a one way valve. The tiller arm that has the fitting that attaches to the cable must spin. If its too tight things won't work. The cable bracket that has the ball joint needs to be free enough to rotate. Everything I did was too tight and the steering would not work. After trying to figure everything out in my head and how or why it works the way it does and several beers later I have loose steering. Test drove today and was very impressed. Like it was able to palm steer in turns. It drove like a new boat. Basically I cleaned every piece of the steering system besides the helm. Before cleaning anything I took the cable off of the rudder and the ball joint bracket loose. Tried to turn the wheel both ways and the cable was real stiff. After hours of cleaning every piece the cable, it would turn flawlessly. Then I re assembled the cable to the rudder and found that it would not turn. Removed it and it worked great. Re installed did not work. Eliminated every moving piece 1at a time until I found the tiller joint was not spinning on the bolt like it was supposed to. Steering got better but was still very hard. Took the grease fitting off completely and baddabing pressure relief and everything worked great. First time fooling with the steering and honestly I'm glad it was a success. Key lessons. Don't over tighten parts that are designed to rotate, spin, or have play. Lesson 2 that took an hour or so of time was the grease fitting. Once removing it and it worked I just left it off like the cable was before I started. When greasing from now on I will put it in just to apply grease. That or maybe I'll cut down the fitting so the valve can be removed. This will make it 2 way fitting. Hope this helps someone in the future.
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Last edited by Kyle; 12-17-2012 at 03:12 AM. |
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#19
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Nice how-to on greasing up the old rod, Kyle!! You're gonna need to do one on greasing the rudder box now.
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Gone, surfing. |
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#20
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I thought someone else did a how to lube the box Just thought I would do one on how to grease the rod for the box. ![]()
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