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#21
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Yes, you will need a screen there. It originally came with one.
Good to know the gas isn't leaking anymore! |
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#22
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My '89 has a screen. Not entirely sure how critical it is, if that screen is stopping something that made it through the fuel filter, there are bigger problems than not having the screen there. I suppose if the filter disintegrates, it will stop that. But IIRC the screen wasn't super fine, and could let something through big enough to clog a jet anyways.
I also had a similar leak as the OP, thought it was the flared fitting, but it was the one on the bowl. I also used to put teflon tape on flared threads, but agree with most here that if it is leaking, teflon shouldn't be used to stop it. Something is up with the flared fitting. Kevin
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1989 ProStar 190 with "Safe T Top", 351 Ford, GT 40 heads painted Ford Blue, Elec. Ign, 1:1, 720 hours, 4 blade prop, PP 6.5, removable platform brackets, custom color from factory, hot water shower, Boat Buddy & LED lights on trailer 2010 D3 Z7, 2 @ 32 off, 34 mph so far |
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#23
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The screen will filter out rocks and sticks, and is better than nothing. A good filter makes this screen unnecessary.
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- Peter TIRE & WHEEL SALES email:tiresplease@gmail.com WEEKEND WHEEL SPECIAL Two 14" Aluminum wheels $195 Two 15" Aluminum wheels $215 Four 14" Aluminum wheels $370 Free Freight within lower 48 Steel and galvanized wheels available. |
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#24
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1. It doesn't need thread tape.
2. The leak issue you have is very common. Basically, you have over tightened it. I don't remember what the torque specs are for that piece, but they approximate to "snugged up." What happens is that when you over tighten the flared fitting, a/k/a the "little nut," it loosens the "big nut" on the carburetor fitting where it attaches. If you back off the little nut, you should be able to snug up the big nut. Then snug up the little nut, but don't over tighten it. This will likely fix your leak. The big nut/little nut thing is my mechanic trying to explain this to me over the phone. Here's a picture. I think this is what he meant.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205 Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG. FAQ Tyler Ski Club To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball. Last edited by east tx skier; 12-12-2012 at 04:54 PM. |
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#25
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I always say "Nothing tighter than a good cross-thread".
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__________________
- Peter TIRE & WHEEL SALES email:tiresplease@gmail.com WEEKEND WHEEL SPECIAL Two 14" Aluminum wheels $195 Two 15" Aluminum wheels $215 Four 14" Aluminum wheels $370 Free Freight within lower 48 Steel and galvanized wheels available. |
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#26
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Quote:
That ''big nut'' is the adapter fitting and the small nut is the flared fitting for the fuel line. If someone needs to remove the fuel line, you need to use 2 wrenches, one to keep the adapter in place, the other to untighten the fuel line fitting. When putting it back together, you need to tighten the adapter first, use a wrench to keep it from over-tightening while you tighten the fuel line fitting back on. I hope this helps! |
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#27
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Quote:
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205 Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG. FAQ Tyler Ski Club To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball. |
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#28
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I had the same problem this summer. Purchased a new flared line and problem was corrected. Also check the flare with flashlight to see if there is a hair line crack around it.
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